kmmcrafts

In the back plastic section right behind or very close to where the power cord goes into the saw.. At least on my China version, LOL.. I like the Seyco for the big table.. and as has been mentioned I don't like the tilting mechanism.. I don't like the magnet thing for the table.. some say it last a very long time.. but the paint on the table last a lot of folks a very long time too, LOL.. my paint lasted almost 3 weeks.. I feel like I'd be buying stock in those magnets sheets if I had a Seyco.. and the table is recessed where that sheet sets so you have to have something there.. Other than those couple things I really like the saw so I look forward to how you like it once you get some time on it.

Want to mix things up huh? I'm like that too.. sometimes I like the challenge of doing something different.. I've even gone so far as when the blade is dull I've flipped it upside down for a challenge to cut the rest of the project out with blade upside down, LOL.. NOW.. if you use those blades that cut a degree off to one side.. upside down it's off a degree or so on the opposite side.. that's challenging...

People do get comfortable with what they learned on and many do not "try" other things because they like what they're used to.. I'm not convinced that this is true though for me.. I started sawing ( 2005) using Olsen reverse tooth blades.. quickly learned about FD-UR blades from online forums.. in around 2007-8.. switch to those until I herd about Pegas MGT blades in 2015-16? and have been using those ever since for the most part.. So for me I have not stuck with what I got used to.. LOL..

Sorry to hear that.. or maybe not? LOL.. good reason to buy that new seyco.. I see Seyco ow has a 24" I think it was 24.. Anyway they now have a larger model. I also seen where Seyco is now stocking parts for Pegas saws.. While most the other Pegas dealers are pretty good with customer service, Seyco knocks them out of the water for saw knowledge.. I wish I could like the Seyco saw more than I do.. but there are a couple things with the Seyco saw that kinda turns my interest to other saws like Pegas, King and Jet.. Seyco would be the last choice of these style saws unfortunately.. But their customer service and parts inventory etc.. is TOP notch. And now that they stock Pegas parts and also service Pegas.. That's a game changer in my opinion.. However, I service my own saws when they need it.. Nice to have a place that list parts and has them in stock.. One big reason I have not bought a Pegas is nobody was listing parts on their sites.. they show where you can send for repairs but I don't want / do that.. I just want the parts available to order online in the middle of the night.. not call during these times to order... I'm busy during the daytime hours.. I do most my purchasing at night online.. so convenience is important to me. I know Denny sells saws.. but you have to call or email through the buying process.. If I bought a Pegas I'd likely buy somewhere else just because I do like the convenience to order whenever.. Nothing against Denny I'd prefer to order from him.. in fact I'd probably have a Pegas saw by now if he had them on his site to order.. I don't care for Bearwood so they are also a no go for me as well. I've had a Pegas in my shopping cart at bearwood more than a few times and said nope, I'll call Denny tomorrow.. and then get busy and still haven't done that, LOL.. This has been going on for over a year now, LOL.. As ROLF said interesting about the Hawk.. but I also understand that the EX style saws seem to be a bit more aggressive and I know you do a bit more thick wood cutting.. so I can see your reasoning. If I'm doing fretwork and fine detailed work.. I prefer the Hawk, any thick wood cutting and not real detailed work I prefer the EX. My EX has been giving fits with the speed jumping around sometimes.. I know it's probably just the pot. switch.. I'll likely not repair it.. in fact thinking I'm going to be selling it soon. Not sure yet if I'll replace it or not.. nice to have that bit more aggressive cutting saw but having the newer Hawk and the slightly older Hawk I really don't need to replace it..

Must have blade hmmm. My most used blade is probably Pegas MGT #3 and #5 for cutting mostly 1/2" - 3/4" material whether it's hardwoods or stacked up 1/8" plywood. Next up is FD-NS #2/0 Spiral blades.. typically used for stack cutting up to 1/2" material typically stacks of 4 pieces of 1/8" BB ply. Also used for veining cuts in hardwood when cut was first made with flat blade then followed up with the spiral. I do not like spiral blades any larger than a #1 mostly use the 2/0. Now.. other blades I sometimes use in place of the Pegas MGT is sometimes the #3 - #5 UR or the same size in the SR. Depending on my mood and if I happen to be having length issues with the Pegas LOL.. All the blades above is my most used have to have on hand blade.. Now I keep probably 30 different brands and styles on hand but rarely use any of them on a regular basis.. and could probably do without them.. once gone they may not ever be ordered again.

Yes for sure, I just mentioned PDF because there are a lot of different file types that many people do not know what it is or how to open it.. so I just mentioned PDF because many "know how to open and print that type of file".. Many people have trouble opening DXF, AIF, and some even have troubles with SVG.. Most people can open and print a PDF without issues.

I've brought this up a few times in the past but since we have many newer folks on here since the last time I mentioned it I thought I'd bring it back up again. Most, if not all laser and cnc files / patterns have a few different options for the download of the design just read the description to see if they have PDF option before purchasing or send them a message and ask. Lots of these on etsy and other places around the web. Most of these can be printed and cut on a scroll saw.. If they have engraving on them sometimes if it's just words you can use a Sharpe fine point marker / pen or a paint pen and hand write it on. Since I have a laser cutter I've been buying quite a lot of files on etsy to cut with the laser.. most all the files also have a PDF download option so you could download and print the pattern. I've recently just been doing ornaments.. but there are a lot of other things too. Here is one I engraved and cut on the laser today. Could easily be done on a scroll saw and a Sharpe if you don't have a wood burner set etc.. Some carbon paper to transfer the text by hand to the wood then trace over it with the Sharpe or wood burner pen.

Barb, since you was able to change the upper chuck without issue, I think what you have going on is ( I've had this issue with a DeWalt ) the very fine sawdust lands on those lower arm bearings and the fine dust soaks up the moisture of the grease and expands.. Many times the bearing is toast as is the sleeve in this scenario anyway. You might look to see what Seyco.com gets for those rocker assemblies and also might check what the ones for the DeWalt cost as well.. I think they are the same for both saws.. but not 100%.. I will say if you buy them from Seyco you get the upper and lower chucks with them.. and the square shaped mounting blocks that fit into the arm tubes.. however those blocks will not fit the China made saw so you'll have to take the assemblies apart and swap the parts to your original blocks.

I should mention that if you are having a issue with the blades tracking etc.. there may be a bad batch / run of the blades and you should contact your supplier.. many times if there is a known issue they'll send you replacements.. As for the length issue.. I guess maybe not enough folks complain about it.. They used to be uniform until they all of a sudden decided to put a notch at one end or the other to distinguish the top / bottom of the blade.. but there has been no constancy to that either but I've been told that it's to mark top or bottom.. but I've found the notch on both top and bottom or just top or just bottom or not one at all so that's not consistent.. They changed something back around 2017 ish.. and it's been a **** show on the blades since then.. JMO.. on what I've observed.. Olsen PGT blades track straight and a really long lasting blade.. however the smallest size is a #5 and it's a big #5 compared to other brands and styles of #5 in my opinion.. SuperSharp brand blades from P.S. Wood is a nice blade and probably be my choice for thick wood ( compound cutting ) but no reverse teeth so lots of fuzzies etc.

No need to buff it out.. the heat and the air blowing from the hair dryer sort of melts and blows the excess off and out the back side.. Wipe off excess with paper towels..

While I hate to say anything bad about Pegas.. I will say their quality control for blades is horrible.. I sometimes get a pack of blades like you said and they don't track quite right.. I rarely see two blades the same length in a pack too.. While it's not a big deal for a EX type saw it is for a Hawk as you mount the blade and set the correct tension at the back of the saw.. provided you use the same style and size blade you don't need to adjust anything.. but I have to with Pegas blades every time.. A 1/6" - 1/8" difference in blade length play heck with a Hawk that was dialed in for one blade and the next is longer or shorter changes that tension for me. Highly considering going back to only using FD blades..

Looks great! Hope they sell great for you..

The material you're cutting is going to greatly change this... not to mention the feed rate at which you're pushing through and also if you're pushing "straight" through or you have a slight drag on one side of the blade or not. Properly tensioned blade will also affect the longevity. Back to the material you cut.. Plywood which I cut a lot of burns through blades compared to solid timbers.. The glues in the plywood I believe are what causes this but not certain of that, maybe someone else knows more on that. Cutting a stack of five 3mm BBply I get around 15-20 minutes on a blade.. I probably change out my blades more often than others.. Blades are cheap and a dulled down blade makes inefficient cutting.. certain types of wood burn easy.. you don't want a dull blade just sitting there slowly munching and burning it's way through..

Here is the video I did, I can't take full credit as I just used the recipe from the toy making plans that someone else had already said.. I make mine so it's not really liquid but not a hard paste wax either.. kind of in between.. Apply it with a acid brush and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it into the crevasse etc. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

I've often wondered about this.. Thanks for posting all the info about it..

Yes he did say he found them and that he normally post them in the blog but didn't with this one since he thought he had thrown them out. But did happen to find them recently.

Well, after looking through the blog that Dan posted I found that the person that made it is on instagram.. so I sent them a message on there asking if they had any plans for sale etc. They said they would put the sketches up on the blog in a couple weeks after they get all the sketches scanned. So that should help get a starting point.. Said they'd message me once they were up on the blog. It'll likely be after the new year before I get time to start this project since business is always crazy from Oct. to the new year..

Probably like me, there wasn't a picture so you missed it, LOL Who reads when there is pictures..LOL

I use some of the more pricey bits.. as you might know, I use the 1-3/8 and 1-7/8 bits to drill into my clocks I make.. and most clocks are made from Cherry.. I first was worried about the DP speed too.. then I believe is was maybe JT that mention he runs his bits fast.. I've never had a burning issue with a good sharp bit. I've also been using the same but since 2007 and never have sharpen it yet.. though it could use it I think.. Can't tell you how many holes I've drilled with that 1-3/8 bit but it has to be a lot... The bit I use and the oldest one is a Amana brand that I bought from Klockit.. I since bought a Freud.. nice bit but the Amana is still working better than the brand new Freud, LOL.. I think the biggest thing is make sure you have a good hold on it whether you're clamping it or just holding it with your hand.. Most my pieces are large enough that I have good leverage and not close to the bit so I just hold it by hand.. A dull crappy bit might rip it out of your hand though.. Bought a full set from Menards years ago too because I wanted different sizes.. I got what I paid for I guess as the whole set was about the same price as that one Amana or Freud.. I have used some of the odd sizes and they do work but not the best at all..

They're a little bit more money but I like the Packzon brand.. You do loose about 1/16 or so on the 11" sides for easier peeling.. which is why I like them. Had some that just had cross cut on the back but they was harder to peel off. Plus these have a full sheet back piece that is waxy on the one side which doubles for gluing small items. When I glue a piece that needs a backer.. I will spread a small film of wood glue using a plastic spreader ( commonly used for Bondo / fiberglass in the auto body world ) then I dip the back side of the fretwork into the glue and place it on the backer.. easier way to get glue on the entire back surface.. Just please make sure you're dipping the back side and not the front... don't ask. LOL Anyway I used to use these for mailing my packages so I would go through a lot of them. Last time I ordered I bought 1000 sheets.. then a week later I bought a thermal 4 x 6 Dymo label printer.. that's been a couple years ago and I still have most of them left now that I'm only using them for patterns. A hundred or so would last a weekend hobby scroller for a year or so I would think. I guess it depends on how you use them.. Most things I make would fit on a half or forth of a sheet like ornaments or car clocks so I print two per sheet of clocks and 6-8 ornaments per sheet so I don't go through to many of them a year. LOL I usually purchase them from ebay.. last time I got them was from this seller here back in 2020. https://www.ebay.com/itm/152896747215?hash=item23995b36cf:g:4kUAAOSwjn9Zj2Gt

I've been using the shelf liner for a lot of years, probably 10-12 years. I also got tired of the messy spray glue and the can running out of air before it's empty etc.. so I started printing the patterns on full sheet shipping labels.. pretty nice just peel and stick it to the shelf liner covered wood. The glue on the shipping label also lubes the blade, but don't try sticking just the label to the wood.. shipping labels are made to not fall off a package so it also doesn't come off the wood, LOL.. don't ask how I know that one.

Just practicing for when it is.

This don't happen to me.. I think it might be your Poplar and the saw.. send them both to me and I'll cut puzzles with the saw to see if it's your saw or the Poplar.. when the poplar is gone I may need more.. might be the poplar from your location so maybe others should also send me some poplar from your location so I can determine if poplar is different by location.. Can't send me just one board either.. I say 50 - 100 board foot would rule out that one stubborn board that we all run into now and then.. Yes it happens to me as well and I notice it in most all the species

Is your upper arm parallel to the table? I've never tried putting the blade that high up in the upper clamp.. and I'm not sure I'd even be able to clamp the blade in the bottom clamp if I did.. It'd have to be pretty close to the very tip of the blade I think on that bottom clamp.. Maybe wrong and maybe some difference between the China made saw and the Canada one, LOL. I'll have to look and see on mine. I always "try" to mount the blade so at least a couple of the reverse teeth would go up beyond the top of the table level so they're being used to keep fussies at bay but also not so high that I'm not using the full potential of the actual cutting teeth. Ideally the reverse teeth really only need a couple of the teeth to surpass the table top since the fussies are always at the very bottom edge of the wood. Obviously not a right / wrong way so long as the blade is the right direction. Would think being that high you might be cutting slower since possibly only a few of the "cutting" teeth are actually being used. I think I probably mount my blades more like Denny does with about 1/4" of blade above the top of the thumb screw.. This just goes to show how everyone sets up the saw differently and why I tend to shy away from offering advice on those questions of "what blade to use" because saw set up and blade mounting can vary greatly between users. All that really matters as it works for the user.

I think the Pegas clamps are more fussy than any other clamping system I've ever used.. They seem to need cleaning up quite often or they'll start slipping. As has been mentioned.. I've never had an issue with the Hawk at all and rarely clean the screws etc. up.. I've had regular excalibur chucks and not as much issues either, nor the DeWalt I used to have.. But those Pegas I do from time to time need to clean and or dress the ends of the set screw etc. I guess lots of people make an extra step to sand the blade ends.. not something I do but I will say I remove the oils from each blade ends by taking the whole bundle of them before unraveling the wire and I spray the ends off with automotive brake parts cleaner..