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Everything posted by kmmcrafts
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Mid 90’s Hawk Scroll saw tension popping
kmmcrafts replied to Jayme's topic in General Scroll Sawing
You say you bought a new wedge that goes to the back tension rod.. Did you also replace the nylon washer that goes on top of the wedge? I only ask because it looked like in the video that your adjuster handle had turned some and was hitting the back uprights of the saw.. that hitting could mess with your tension. That nylon washer is supposed to help make some friction to keep that back adjustment lever from turning on its own. -
Mid 90’s Hawk Scroll saw tension popping
kmmcrafts replied to Jayme's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Well, sounds like you did about everything that I would have suggested. You said you adjusted the set screw, how did you adjusted it? It should be adjusted to a point where it gives some resistance about a 1/4” above the upper arm. See my photos and excuse the mess as I work a lot in the shop this time of year. Another thing to check is maybe your thumb screws or set screws need replacing or at a minimum sanded. -
I've seen soy wax but have not tried it.. Many of my customers like the sweet smell that the natural beeswax gives my woodwork pieces and as Wayne mentioned.. I don't know how it'd do with the mineral oil. I don't use Mineral Spirits in my wax mix.. just the oil and beeswax and heat it until the wax melts down. I know supposedly the MS will evaporate but how will the smell affect the mixture.. My wife can't stand the smell of the Johnson's wax whatever is in that.. be the beeswax she likes the smell of.. Might have to watch her to make sure she's not eating my beeswax mix.
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Honestly I've never cut anything over 7/8".. But yeah a FD-UR is not a good blade for this type of thick wood.. I've seen people mention using skip tooth blades for thick hardwood.. I never liked them myself.. also see mention of FD Polar, I have not tried those.. I did try a sample of sharktooth blades from PSWoods .. If I was attempting to cut htis I'd go with those Sharktooth blades.. Not cheap blades though and no reverse teeth soo you'll have a bit of a rougher cut on the bottom side..
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Hard Maple? Best blade I've used is a chainsaw. I cut a Trucker ( semi truck ) puzzle from one of the patterns Iggy sells from Hard Maple.. Never again.. Next mistake was doing the next one from Hickory..
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Black Friday Deals ( DeWalt Miter Saw )
kmmcrafts replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Very tempting to buy the max quantity ( think it was 5 ) and put them on eBay over the holidays for a couple hundred more.. I see used ones selling for this kind of money on the Marketplace all the time.. I've been known to do that stuff.. if I find good buys from anything tools shoes or ?? a good buy is a good money maker with doing almost nothing, -
Cheating and using Posca paint markers. Kinda like a big kid coloring. They are not cheap but I found that since these brand are water based paints I found a way to take them apart and clean them once empty and I can buy any old cheap water base acrylic paints and refill them or make my own colors.. Problem is I need more colors than the set came with ( should have bought the bigger set maybe ) and I haven't run out of paint in any of them yet soo.. I had to go buy some individual colors which may have been the way to go in the first place.. as the set has a color I'm not sure I'll use.. https://www.hobbylobby.com/Art-Supplies/Drawing-Illustration/Markers/Basic-Color-Posca-PC-5M-Paint-Markers---8-Piece-Set/p/81095039
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I posted a while back about making layered ornaments and painting for contrast etc.. These are not handmade as I made them with my laser. But is hand painting them still make them somewhat handmade? LOL Anyway showing off my painting not the lasered ornament, LOL I might be biased but my favorite one is the Ultrasound Tech.. biased because that is what my daughter does now that she graduated school.. The last two I'm not sure about the black.. it might show up better if my box had a different color bottom on it as it blends in with the box too much.. It's supposed to be MRI Tech and Xray Tech.. one has a skull on the back piece and the other the bones of a hand.. in case you can't make that out.. I might change the colors of the lettering..
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Was on another CNC site and it was brought up about a sale on the DeWalt Miter saw.. This is a good deal with the free rolling stand gift that you get to choose.. If my old one would have broke closer to the holidays I could have saved me about a few hundred dollars.. I see stores starting to offer some deals already. https://www.homedepot.com/p/DEWALT-15-Amp-Corded-12-in-Double-Bevel-Sliding-Compound-Miter-Saw-Blade-Wrench-and-Material-Clamp-DWS779/321488482
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Steve Good reviewed the Jet ( I believe it was the 22" model but basically same saw but a bit larger) on his blog a couple maybe 3-4 years ago? I believe Jet sets their prices and the distributors have to sell them at Jets prices so anywhere local or online that sells Jet scroll saws should have them or can order you one so long as Jet is running their sale.. They typically run a percentage off all Jet tools type sale.. I've seen it before on the Woodcraft website.. I have a local family run lumber store that sells Jet tools so that is where I would go if I were going with a Jet.. I like the idea of the upper dual action blade clamp design.. but I have heard of issues with it jamming if you clamp it and it's not adjusted properly for that size blade etc.. I don't know and only heard of a couple complaints.. Anyway, I've eyeballed that 18" saw for a few years now.. Your analogy of the dump truck can play the other way too... like driving a ford pinto to the gravel yard to get 7 yard of stone.. LOL I do agree though I have 2 Hawk 26" saws and a Excalibur 21" saw..... There have "occasionally" been maybe 10 times in the last 15 years that I actually needed more than the 21" saw.. However.. I did used to have a Delta SS350 16" saw that I quite often had to go over to the deWalt 20" saw because the 16 wasn't quite large enough to do the cut.. Bigger projects sometimes sneak into your to do list and it really sucks to try to haul gravel in that ford pinto.. Edit: Maybe I'm wrong, I see most places selling the 18" Jet for around $850.. Home Depot has is at $709.. That's not a bad deal..
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Hard to say what it is without actually being there to see what's going on, but my first thought was.. I see it's not really bolted down.. having a saw just sitting on a bench not securely bolted down can make a lot of noise and vibration.. though the sound I hear really doesn't sound like a unbolted saw but I feel like I'm hearing several different levels of noise which may hinder the diagnose process.. sometimes microphones can pick up sounds and play back in video that otherwise might not really be heard too. When I took my saw apart for rebuild I think when I put the rod and tension assembly back together I adjusted it until I had tension on the tension adjuster lever then i think I gave it another 1-2 turns is all.. I never had any noise.. but I did have that kind of tight.. Now that I've taken several saws apart.. I'm thinking that maybe it is important to have it adjusted somewhat properly.. It's been 10 years since I worked on a DeWalt but I would think you want the upper arm to be Parallel to the table front of saw to the back or very close.. I would think too tight might make the upper arm not come down far enough and too loose would come down too far? Gosh it's been a long time since I mess with the DW saws.. Did you take any bearings apart at the front of the saw or just inside the saw at the back by the motor? For me I had issues with the fine sawdust getting into the bearings etc. at the front lower ( sawdust drops down onto the lower bearings ) and absorbs the moisture that's in the grease creating a dried / caked up bearing.. If you haven't taken the front portion apart.. I might check there if adjusting that rod doesn't do anything.. It to me doesn't sound like that classic rob hitting the metal covers. Sounds like a bad bearing somewhere to me.. but again.. not being bolted down might be noises I'm hearing too.
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Yeah they'll probably repair or replace it, Some of the service places are good and some not so much so it'd depend on which center it goes to.. It could be a long wait though.. I've seen people saying several weeks before they got it back. I would talk to Home Depot and see if they'll exchange it first..
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Maybe I need to make TV trays with a dowel rod for a roll of paper towels..
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Interesting! Now I guess if I ever paint puzzles I'll need some metal rod. Do you cut with a larger blade than for puzzles that are not painted? Seems like paint would fill in the tiny already tight slot that the puzzles fit into.. I've only recently started "painting" wood things.. its been a learning experience from painting cars going to wood crafts.. LOL
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I guess I've never fell into the "gotta make the new fad" gang.. I just make things I like OR what customers ask for. One I remember getting a lot of request for was the fidget spinners.. seems there was wands too back in the Harry Potter days.. Never did either even though I was asked because one, at the time I was more artistic in what I was making and I seen no art in fidget spinners plus I didn't want to fool with getting bearings etc... Didn't have a lathe at the time of the wand fad.
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The thing with sending it back is if it's due to cold temps the new one will likely be the same way.. I've seen a lot of topics about that issue in the cold months.. That being said, mine always ran fine after a few minutes of cutting.. so if yours is doing it every time you try to use it even after running it for 15 -20 minutes then you probably should return it if you can. IF it's not cold where you are it very well could be a bad bearing or something making it hard for the saw to get started..
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Welcome to the village!! So you're saying that the saw runs IF you sort of help it along but runs fine once you give it some help? Mine used to do that in cold weather.. at the time I had a unheated shop and live in Michigan where temps regularly around 25F during the day time.. However I'd start having this issue at around 40F.. It got to where in the cold winter I would take a small heater and place it at the back of the saw for a few minutes to sort of warm up the motor.. Then it was fine for the rest of the day.. Might be something to consider if this started as temps come down if you live in a cool climate area.. Also have you checked the motor brushes? Maybe a possibility there..
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I just thought of something... IF you're budget is the issue and you want to go with a saw sold "as new" you might also look for refurbish / reconditioned saws online.. Many of the tools I have I bought new with a "limited warranty" but they have never given me any issues.. the only issue I have had with them is the extra money in my pocket and what to buy next with it, That being said, Bearwood is now offering refurbished Pegas saws.. you might want to look at those.. maybe give it a few weeks and see if they run any Black Friday deals on top of the discounted price.. https://www.bearwood.com/product8099.html I'd much rather do business with Denny at Artcrafters.. but I don't think he is offering the refurbished ones.. maybe he will, might not hurt to ask him about it.
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Dust collection finally. Head phone recommendations.
kmmcrafts replied to Charlie E's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I think these are the newer version to what I have, I've had mine for about 5 years and they don't sell them anymore. In fact mine broke a couple weeks ago.. and I seen these but wasn't sure if they was good and I knew I liked the ones I had so I searched eBay and found a pair.. unfortunately I should have bought these I think.. The old ones are just getting old and even though they was new in the box.. the battery only last a day on my new / old one that I just bought. The old pair that broke I'd only have to charge about once a month and I use them probably at least an hour every day.. they went a long time. I put this pair you show here on my birthday / Christmas list for this year as I'm annoyed that I have to keep this eBay pair on the charger all the time. Hopefully they'll be good like the ones that broke.. went to put them on and they snapped in half.. imagine the plastic can only flex so many times over the last 5 years.. sure loved those.. good sound and very comfortable. The worktunes ones are heavy built but also heavy to wear and they are very strong / tight to the ears.. I don't have a big head either so can't imagine how they'd be if I did. LOL -
Dust collection finally. Head phone recommendations.
kmmcrafts replied to Charlie E's topic in General Scroll Sawing
I have a pair of worktunes noise cancelling headphones I use when running the chainsaw or mowing grass etc. Mine are not the "bluetooth" version as that wasn't a thing back when I got them but the newer ones are.. or maybe I should say they have both bluetooth and non bluetooth ones now. For inside the house at my computer since I'm right in the same room as the TV we always used to compete with the volume so I bought a pair of Altec Lansing blue tooth noise cancelling headphones and I really like them. I have taken them out and mowed with them and every bit as good as the worktunes.. -
I don't know where you are in relation to this saw.. and this saw is not a small saw.. I kind of took your post as looking for a cheaper price than a small saw.. this is a 26" throat saw and is a Hawk Ultra. About half the price you was looking to spend for a new saw.. Even if you had to drive a couple hours.. Looks like new still.. not much goes wrong with the Hawks and Hegners and many parts could be had from a local hardware store. LOL https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/639933374502405?hoisted=false&ref=saved&referral_code=null There is also another Hawk 14" saw probably closer to you but it's the single speed.. price isn't too bad at $180 It's in Owensboro, KY and another one just like it in IN for $100 but that would be a bit of a drive. A Hegner in Nashville but it's $1500 too, LOL I don't know how much one can dicker on price of a Hegner but I know there are tons of Hawks out there and most times they don't seem to sell super fast.. and most times you can haggle on the price and get it much cheaper than asking price. Remember, getting close to the holidays many folks might be selling equipment they don't use much to fund the Christmas gifts.. Plus if you decide on a new saw we have Black Friday coming up.. and lots of deals on stuff. Grizzly used to offer a good price on the new DeWalt saws for most of November through to the new year.. They are decent saws too.. just don't have the bells and whistles of the Jet, Pegas type of saws..
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I agree with Ray.. plenty of used saws out there that are high end saws like Hawk and Hegner.. older Excalibur 16" saws too.. Hawk doesn't make a small saw anymore but there is plenty of those old Hawk 12", 14", and 16" saws out there that can be had from $100 - 250.. or a good Hegner 14" saw for a little bit more.. On those older Hawk and Hegners though.. you probably want to make sure it's a variable speed saw rather than a single or 2-3 speed.. Hawk and Hegners are very easy to work on should they ever need something addressed..
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Welcome to the village!! Both saws are great saws and a good investment. I personally would also go with Pegas for the blade clamps and the angle adjustment mechanism is different ( not necessarily better but more user friendly is probably a better way to describe that ) . As for parts.. IF you're mechanical incline enough to repair a saw yourself I think probably most of the mechanical parts are basically they same.. as both the Pegas and Seyco were both designed after the Excalibur as is the King and Jet brands.. each have a minor difference of mostly blade clamps and or table size or angle adjustment fixtures. But the main working parts I'm pretty certain are pretty interchangeable.. only those that share the same size though.. I know Jet makes a 18" saw.. so the link rods inside might be different length but I would bet the bearings and sleeves are the same.. Anyway, I would think a mechanical inclined person could make parts work from one saw to the next without too much issue. Anyway as I said Pegas have great blade clamps and many folks that get a Jet, King, or Seyco end up buying Pegas clamps for their saw.. so why not just start with that saw.. they are so similar to one another really a toss-up other than those blade clamps and the more user friendly angle adjustment..
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I have used the small 4oz. ? can of the elmers and at first try I didn't like it and got the same results... I found you have to shake the can up good and also have to be kind of heavy at spraying it.. I think you also have to let it set for a few seconds after spraying? I don't remember for sure now but it was a learning curve to use as opposed to the 3M sprays that I had been using.. I think they seem to have the smallest of the cans that you can get.. really handy for those of us that don't really use much of the sprays.
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I order a lot from them as well, I don't have one very close to me like I do Menards or Lowes but they ship to me and they always have better deals for the things I need. I very seldom use spray glue anymore and most times when I need it the can won't work so I buy very small cans, LOL
