kmmcrafts

I think the King is a 16" saw not a 18" unless they made a new one that I'm not aware of yet.. The King is the same thing as the old excalibur.. I don't know the prices anymore but I think I would go with it over the Jet myself.. I'm not sure where you get parts for a Jet saw, but I know the King being the same as a Excalibur and Seyco.com sells Excalibur parts. I've heard Jet saws have issues with the upper clamp mechanism jamming up IF you're not well informed about how to adjust them. I like the idea of the clamping system but I see many folks buying the Pegas chucks and pitching the Jet ones in the trash so.. at least you do have that option if the clamps don't work as well as you hoped. Also some of the Jets had issues with the reverse tooth blades.. table sits too high and the reverse teeth aren't utilized as they should be.. Maybe this has been corrected by now I don't know. IF price is your concern you might look for used high end saws like Ray mentioned the Hegner.. If space is an issue and you're using the stand made for the saw, they use the same stand for the 16" and the 21" saws so you really aren't saving much if any space.. I think the Hegner has a pretty compact stand.. New ones aren't very cheap though. Edit: Black Friday is just around the corner.. Jet and many others will likely be discounting prices..

Yeah, I get that too sometimes.. I either dip a second or third time sometimes or if it's a rush order I will just top coat with polyurethane, typically the water base stuff as it dries really fast.. I'd rather use Lacquer but oil and Lacquer argue with each other too much, and more times than not it'll mess up the finish.. if not right away it will a few weeks later.

Save on ink I modified Dons pattern and added X to mark center of clock circle for drilling. I also made for two of the more popular sized clocks.. Though I did make the circles a bit large from what the actual clock would be.. I realized it after I already closed out the program but anyway these should work fine. scooter clock.pdf

Yes the green colored can is exterior and says good for decks, and fences etc. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-gal-Natural-Oil-Wood-Finish-2-Pack-67731/204803632 This is the cheapest one but it says 8 hours to dry.. I only skimmed through but I didn't see a VOC on this one. Pretty sure this is what I had been using in the past. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65731/202067183 Thinking this is the one I purchased last time and has the VOC of 350 I'd have to look to be sure but I doubt I went for the most expensive one.. whatever one it was it was the only one in stock.. so maybe it was the one that is more $$ https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-65732/202067184 This one is the most $$ and a VOC of 275.. https://www.homedepot.com/p/Watco-1-Gallon-Danish-Oil-in-Natural-2-Pack-242217/204793060 I'll have to look at my can to see what I bought. The lowest price one is 8 hour dry times.. the other two are both 2 hour dry times... I never looked to see what is available in the smaller cans as I've never bought them before. Edit: I just looked at the pint cans.. all three the same as in gallons for the pint cans dry in 30 minutes... something not right there I don't think. I might have to look more into the ingredients.. I mean they could make the mix different for smaller cans but seems weird.

I think you could probably search for scooter svg or coloring page and get a image close enough to work with.. just make it large enough to give room for the clock.

Some time ago ( probably been a couple years LOL. Funny I can remember this but can't remember why I went to the Kitchen LOL) there was a topic about Danish Oil not drying very fast.. I've not had the issue and for the most part I have always bought locally at a wood / lumber store that's similar to woodcraft. During the pandemic with all the lockdowns I was unable to go out and get it so I ordered from Home Depot and what they had was limited because as you may have experienced the shortages of things. For some reason they have 3 different listings of the gallon sized and range in price from just one finger to a arm, and then also an arm and a leg, . So I got to thinking about this price thing and started looking closer at those 3 different Natural color oils. The cheapest one they have says 8 hours to dry to the touch.. the other two show a VOC rating and I couldn't find that info on the cheaper can.. anyway those other two slightly more expensive cans say dries in 2 hours.. One has a VOC of 275 I think it was and the other was VOC 350 if memory is correct. Anyway, not all these Danish oils are created equal. The last time I ordered I bought one of the higher priced ones, can't remember is it was the one price arm or the one priced arm and leg.. but whatever one it is it gives a much more rich deeper sheen look to the projects.. Thinking it has a bit more oil in the mix.. was thicker to pour than the cheaper stuff.. Just thought I'd bring it up, I think I made a post about this before but since we have many new to the hobby members here maybe one of them is smarter than me and can tell me more about these differences.. Meanwhile if you've had drying issues with your Danish oil maybe you was like me and too cheap to buy the good stuff when it really is better..

Yeah, The single speed and 3 speed ran by belt to change speeds on some of them. They was all mostly pre-90's saws.. The old 220VS I had was a 1993 that I got really cheap was my first one.. Took a couple hundred to get it running right as it needed work. Great old saw but nothing close to the new saws with the blade being out in front of the angle mechanism etc.. much better for changing blades etc.. While those old saws ran fairly smooth once tuned good, I doubt one could pass the Nickle test..

It's been a lot of years since they made a 2 speed Hawks.. You have one of those old saws that is a PIA to use, LOL I can certainly see why you have little interest in using it. Especially cutting thicker stock. Hope you get the Excalibur up and running with Rays advice of things to check.

Sounds like you need a new blade holder clip or adjustment to the one you have if it's the metal one. This is what you need for a round barrel style clamp https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/barrel-style-blade-holder-clip/ This is the one if you have a Ultra saw. https://stores.bushtonhawkstore.com/ultra-blade-holder-clip/ The newer saws they made these from spring steel so you can adjust them ( bend the metal up tighter to the holder ) but the older style use a plastic clip and over time the plastic gets weak and doesn't hold the blade holder well. I imagine one could make one from some spring steel fairly easy.. if you're able to bend and form the metal around the blade holder to mold the shape etc.. Not rocket science and sure beats crawling around searching the the blade holder.

In the back plastic section right behind or very close to where the power cord goes into the saw.. At least on my China version, LOL.. I like the Seyco for the big table.. and as has been mentioned I don't like the tilting mechanism.. I don't like the magnet thing for the table.. some say it last a very long time.. but the paint on the table last a lot of folks a very long time too, LOL.. my paint lasted almost 3 weeks.. I feel like I'd be buying stock in those magnets sheets if I had a Seyco.. and the table is recessed where that sheet sets so you have to have something there.. Other than those couple things I really like the saw so I look forward to how you like it once you get some time on it.

Want to mix things up huh? I'm like that too.. sometimes I like the challenge of doing something different.. I've even gone so far as when the blade is dull I've flipped it upside down for a challenge to cut the rest of the project out with blade upside down, LOL.. NOW.. if you use those blades that cut a degree off to one side.. upside down it's off a degree or so on the opposite side.. that's challenging...

People do get comfortable with what they learned on and many do not "try" other things because they like what they're used to.. I'm not convinced that this is true though for me.. I started sawing ( 2005) using Olsen reverse tooth blades.. quickly learned about FD-UR blades from online forums.. in around 2007-8.. switch to those until I herd about Pegas MGT blades in 2015-16? and have been using those ever since for the most part.. So for me I have not stuck with what I got used to.. LOL..

Sorry to hear that.. or maybe not? LOL.. good reason to buy that new seyco.. I see Seyco ow has a 24" I think it was 24.. Anyway they now have a larger model. I also seen where Seyco is now stocking parts for Pegas saws.. While most the other Pegas dealers are pretty good with customer service, Seyco knocks them out of the water for saw knowledge.. I wish I could like the Seyco saw more than I do.. but there are a couple things with the Seyco saw that kinda turns my interest to other saws like Pegas, King and Jet.. Seyco would be the last choice of these style saws unfortunately.. But their customer service and parts inventory etc.. is TOP notch. And now that they stock Pegas parts and also service Pegas.. That's a game changer in my opinion.. However, I service my own saws when they need it.. Nice to have a place that list parts and has them in stock.. One big reason I have not bought a Pegas is nobody was listing parts on their sites.. they show where you can send for repairs but I don't want / do that.. I just want the parts available to order online in the middle of the night.. not call during these times to order... I'm busy during the daytime hours.. I do most my purchasing at night online.. so convenience is important to me. I know Denny sells saws.. but you have to call or email through the buying process.. If I bought a Pegas I'd likely buy somewhere else just because I do like the convenience to order whenever.. Nothing against Denny I'd prefer to order from him.. in fact I'd probably have a Pegas saw by now if he had them on his site to order.. I don't care for Bearwood so they are also a no go for me as well. I've had a Pegas in my shopping cart at bearwood more than a few times and said nope, I'll call Denny tomorrow.. and then get busy and still haven't done that, LOL.. This has been going on for over a year now, LOL.. As ROLF said interesting about the Hawk.. but I also understand that the EX style saws seem to be a bit more aggressive and I know you do a bit more thick wood cutting.. so I can see your reasoning. If I'm doing fretwork and fine detailed work.. I prefer the Hawk, any thick wood cutting and not real detailed work I prefer the EX. My EX has been giving fits with the speed jumping around sometimes.. I know it's probably just the pot. switch.. I'll likely not repair it.. in fact thinking I'm going to be selling it soon. Not sure yet if I'll replace it or not.. nice to have that bit more aggressive cutting saw but having the newer Hawk and the slightly older Hawk I really don't need to replace it..

Must have blade hmmm. My most used blade is probably Pegas MGT #3 and #5 for cutting mostly 1/2" - 3/4" material whether it's hardwoods or stacked up 1/8" plywood. Next up is FD-NS #2/0 Spiral blades.. typically used for stack cutting up to 1/2" material typically stacks of 4 pieces of 1/8" BB ply. Also used for veining cuts in hardwood when cut was first made with flat blade then followed up with the spiral. I do not like spiral blades any larger than a #1 mostly use the 2/0. Now.. other blades I sometimes use in place of the Pegas MGT is sometimes the #3 - #5 UR or the same size in the SR. Depending on my mood and if I happen to be having length issues with the Pegas LOL.. All the blades above is my most used have to have on hand blade.. Now I keep probably 30 different brands and styles on hand but rarely use any of them on a regular basis.. and could probably do without them.. once gone they may not ever be ordered again.

Yes for sure, I just mentioned PDF because there are a lot of different file types that many people do not know what it is or how to open it.. so I just mentioned PDF because many "know how to open and print that type of file".. Many people have trouble opening DXF, AIF, and some even have troubles with SVG.. Most people can open and print a PDF without issues.

I've brought this up a few times in the past but since we have many newer folks on here since the last time I mentioned it I thought I'd bring it back up again. Most, if not all laser and cnc files / patterns have a few different options for the download of the design just read the description to see if they have PDF option before purchasing or send them a message and ask. Lots of these on etsy and other places around the web. Most of these can be printed and cut on a scroll saw.. If they have engraving on them sometimes if it's just words you can use a Sharpe fine point marker / pen or a paint pen and hand write it on. Since I have a laser cutter I've been buying quite a lot of files on etsy to cut with the laser.. most all the files also have a PDF download option so you could download and print the pattern. I've recently just been doing ornaments.. but there are a lot of other things too. Here is one I engraved and cut on the laser today. Could easily be done on a scroll saw and a Sharpe if you don't have a wood burner set etc.. Some carbon paper to transfer the text by hand to the wood then trace over it with the Sharpe or wood burner pen.

Barb, since you was able to change the upper chuck without issue, I think what you have going on is ( I've had this issue with a DeWalt ) the very fine sawdust lands on those lower arm bearings and the fine dust soaks up the moisture of the grease and expands.. Many times the bearing is toast as is the sleeve in this scenario anyway. You might look to see what Seyco.com gets for those rocker assemblies and also might check what the ones for the DeWalt cost as well.. I think they are the same for both saws.. but not 100%.. I will say if you buy them from Seyco you get the upper and lower chucks with them.. and the square shaped mounting blocks that fit into the arm tubes.. however those blocks will not fit the China made saw so you'll have to take the assemblies apart and swap the parts to your original blocks.

I should mention that if you are having a issue with the blades tracking etc.. there may be a bad batch / run of the blades and you should contact your supplier.. many times if there is a known issue they'll send you replacements.. As for the length issue.. I guess maybe not enough folks complain about it.. They used to be uniform until they all of a sudden decided to put a notch at one end or the other to distinguish the top / bottom of the blade.. but there has been no constancy to that either but I've been told that it's to mark top or bottom.. but I've found the notch on both top and bottom or just top or just bottom or not one at all so that's not consistent.. They changed something back around 2017 ish.. and it's been a **** show on the blades since then.. JMO.. on what I've observed.. Olsen PGT blades track straight and a really long lasting blade.. however the smallest size is a #5 and it's a big #5 compared to other brands and styles of #5 in my opinion.. SuperSharp brand blades from P.S. Wood is a nice blade and probably be my choice for thick wood ( compound cutting ) but no reverse teeth so lots of fuzzies etc.

No need to buff it out.. the heat and the air blowing from the hair dryer sort of melts and blows the excess off and out the back side.. Wipe off excess with paper towels..

While I hate to say anything bad about Pegas.. I will say their quality control for blades is horrible.. I sometimes get a pack of blades like you said and they don't track quite right.. I rarely see two blades the same length in a pack too.. While it's not a big deal for a EX type saw it is for a Hawk as you mount the blade and set the correct tension at the back of the saw.. provided you use the same style and size blade you don't need to adjust anything.. but I have to with Pegas blades every time.. A 1/6" - 1/8" difference in blade length play heck with a Hawk that was dialed in for one blade and the next is longer or shorter changes that tension for me. Highly considering going back to only using FD blades..

Looks great! Hope they sell great for you..

The material you're cutting is going to greatly change this... not to mention the feed rate at which you're pushing through and also if you're pushing "straight" through or you have a slight drag on one side of the blade or not. Properly tensioned blade will also affect the longevity. Back to the material you cut.. Plywood which I cut a lot of burns through blades compared to solid timbers.. The glues in the plywood I believe are what causes this but not certain of that, maybe someone else knows more on that. Cutting a stack of five 3mm BBply I get around 15-20 minutes on a blade.. I probably change out my blades more often than others.. Blades are cheap and a dulled down blade makes inefficient cutting.. certain types of wood burn easy.. you don't want a dull blade just sitting there slowly munching and burning it's way through..

Here is the video I did, I can't take full credit as I just used the recipe from the toy making plans that someone else had already said.. I make mine so it's not really liquid but not a hard paste wax either.. kind of in between.. Apply it with a acid brush and use a hair dryer or heat gun to melt it into the crevasse etc. https://www.kevskrafts.com/post/511661656292/how-to-make-homemade-wood-finish-using

I've often wondered about this.. Thanks for posting all the info about it..

Yes he did say he found them and that he normally post them in the blog but didn't with this one since he thought he had thrown them out. But did happen to find them recently.