kmmcrafts

Yeah, It's plugged in..

Scott ( Iggy ) has one that he has spoken highly of a few times.. I have not tried it myself because I think I probably have enough odds and ends of PVC pipe laying in my shed from plumbing projects I have done to build a few systems like ROLF has.. I just need to quit playing with cars and other things and build them, LOL

Guess I'm the oddball or I mis-read this.. If stack cutting I stack 4-6 pieces of 1/8".. I try to keep my stacks 1/2" thick total but there are times I'll do 5/8" or very rarely 3/4".. When cutting stacks this thick almost always use a #3 Pegas MGT blade.. sometimes a #5.. but the blade size is also determined by which saw I'm going to be using as saw set up is a big player in how aggressive it's going to cut. This is why I don't like offering blade sizes to others.. because no two saws are exactly the same.. on a aggressive cutting saw I might use a less aggressive blade.. on a saw that's not too aggressive I might go to a larger or more aggressive blade.. Also, blade size is going to be dependent on how I make my stack and how the cuts are laid out.. if most my cutting it going to be across the grain or with the grain..

I suggest spraying some penetrant oil onto the roll pin that holds the tension assembly onto the saw arm so it'll press out easier. IF I remember correctly there will be a set screw on the cam that you'll also need to loosen / remove to get the tension lever out of the arm too. Pretty straight forward and easy job to change it so long as the roll pin isn't rusted into the saw arm.

Like I said, I upgraded to the newer BM style holders on a very old 220VS saw.. It's definitely worth it IF the cam mechanism is needing replaced as the old saws didn't have the adjustment set screw on the bottom side so when the cam would get slightly worn you had to replace the whole thing.. the upgrade make it so you only need to change the worn set screw.. instead of taking the whole assembly off the saw. SO, I would say in the long run IF your saw doesn't have the set screw underneath where the tension lever is then the upgrade is definitely worth it, because once that cam wears out you'll be replacing it anyway.. If you have that adjustable set screw then I would say make a upper clamp if you have the means to do so. A lot might depend on how much you use the saw too.. those cams last a hobbyist a long time.. me production cutting I have to adjust the set screw about 4 times a year and wear one out every 3-4 years.

I did it on a very old saw round lower barrel clamp type saw I use to have.. There are 3 different types of upper blade mechanisms.. so it would depend upon what type upper you have on your saw. I'm kinda confused as to what you mean by blade holder as there are a lot of parts up there with the tension cam assembly. IF all you need is the holder that clamps the blade then I'd say keep using the one you have unless it's damaged. If you need a new tension cam assembly that is where there is 3 different versions depending on age of the saw. First version is when the cam gets worn the tension lever will not "lock" in the down position.. or may lock but once you run the saw it pops up slightly.. and looses tension. The slightly newer saws have a set screw on the bottom side of where that lever goes into the arm where you can adjust it to get more locking down action so if you're having that issue maybe you just need to adjust it. The newest version has some upgrades.. and the "pin" that in in the blade holder is a solid pin rather than a hollow "roll pin" which they had problems with the hollow ones bending under the tension over time. Hope I made some sense of this.. The upgraded one is nicer stronger set-up.. but unless you have some worn or broken parts I wouldn't upgrade if the saw is working fine as is..

Might try blowing it out with a can of air or air compressor if you have one, can of air is probably preferable because it is dried air where a air compressor may have some moisture content.. Blow it out around the area of the speed dial like between the dial and where it goes into the case. My saw isn't a Pegas but is really close to the same thing as the Pegas is based off the Excalibur.. My saw does this from time to time.. and it's caused by sawdust getting into the speed switch. Blow it out and it stops for a few weeks then all of a sudden speed goes crazy..

So you bought a book just to "look" at the patterns and dream about actually making them,

I couldn't have said that better... my understanding is any "original image" is copywritten automatically once you post it online.. I have over 3000 images online ( etsy, amazon listing photos also just photos used around the internet). I have times where I find my images on other sites.. I have one image that is actually on a clipart site that someone stole from etsy and put on their clipart site. I've had in the past other etsy sellers stealing my entire listing word for word, images too and selling at a lower cost.. so when people say they don't like their stuff stolen "nether do I".. My point was how does one "really" go about patrolling / enforcing the law on this.. I don't have time to do that sort of thing so I just wonder how does one of the designers make sure no more than X amount to be made without a commercial license.. I think some thought I was trying to justify stealing.. maybe I took it that way as the written word is no expression. I used to cut portraits, had about 50 of them of famous people. didn't know selling them was infringing. Some "other scroller" alerted me I should take them down before I get into trouble so I did. They sat in my inventory for about 10 years until I decided it was time to burn them and I did just that.. Enjoyed making them and I enjoyed destroying them.. as I love me a nice campfire..

I do the right thing, or I should say I don't purposely do the wrong thing.. I had company show up as I was typing so in regards to my post, I never really finished up to say that it's not the right thing to do etc. so if you are referring to me I wasn't done, LOL Guess I should have waited to finish before posting. I just don't understand how some designers can have certain regulations on their patterns and how they can go about proving it.. I get it with trademark items that you "copy something" but when you legally buy a pattern but are only to make 10 items how does that get proven.. ( again not saying it's okay to make more and hope to not get caught just don't understand it in the first place )It's a pretty grey area unless you obviously are at a show with 50 of them and caught red handed.. (also my understanding is that you have to be the holder of the copywrite to make a case).. otherwise it's a pretty hard proof. Unless I'm missing something. For the most part I think scroll sawers are pretty trust worthy because they know the meaning of "handmade" much better than someone that just buys a machine to make things for them while they watch over said machine.. I belong to many laser and cnc forums / groups.. and most of those guys seem to think everything is free.. and don't give a rats behind about the designer or a copywrite.. That is really why I brought these particular stipulations up.. without seeing their sales history how does it get proven.. I never once said anything about it being okay to do.. I just think the stipulations are kind of dumb to put in place.. though I'm not a designer and I don't carry copywrites or trademarks.. maybe something they have written that they know they cannot prove but to a certain minority of thief's at craft fairs with boatloads of inventory can give them some legal ground to stand if that were to happen.. possibly for those laser folks.. Those laser groups are terrible with loads of people arguing about this very type of thing and make the good guys have a bad name for it..

Honestly shouldn't bother you if the laser / cnc guys are taking the patterns and running them on their machines.. Now... if you're the designer and "you" don't want laser / cnc machines making your designs then by all means enforce it somehow.. but good luck with that.. Kinda like Sue Meys stipulations of here patterns.. can only make and sell X amount before needing a commercial license... How would that be enforced? and proven that you sold only 1 or 1000? She is hoping for the honor system on this because does she have the time to search out peoples sales.. does she have the right to investigate ones sales to clarify? I don't know the answers to this but if shes worried about the money she could be loosing on the commercial license she'd probably be way farther ahead by just taking the investigation time / money.. to create something new and move on from it..

I get what you mean here but on the other hand you could just copy every pattern makers work and add or remove a bridge etc. and call it your own.. I believe that I had read somewhere that a design had to be changed up a sort of certain percentage to not be infringing.. Kinda makes me think.. I could just change the the formula slightly for a penetrating oil and call it WD-45.. suppose they'd go after me? This Archer puzzle was taken down from my Amazon store last fall I think it was.. It was deemed to be too similar to a sports team logo.. I'm not a sports person so I don't recall what team but I believe it was Kansas City Chiefs.. I personally did see " some similarities" as in the overall shape.. but we're talking about football vrs Archery and the puzzle clearly says Archer on it not anything to do with football or the said teams logo.. In fact.. I had a hard time finding the logo because it was the teams " old " logo from some years ago.. "I think" This is the link to the said logo. https://www.pinterest.fr/pin/296041375490544653/ I probably could have disputed this and won against it.. BUT, is it worth the effort and time to do that for a product I sell only about 3 - 5 of per year, LOL.. My point is.. if you make and sell stuff and someone wants to they can go after you over most anything.. there seems to be some sort of a copywrite or trademark reference to most anything, especially if you see how similar the two things are.. to me they're not even close to the same thing for a copywrite / trademark.. but if it came to a lawsuit probably depend on who has the best legal defense, LOL I do agree on all your other points and you wrote it quite well..

You're not safe from infringing a copywrite just because someone makes and sells the patterns, something I always thought I was safe from so long as I used Sue Mey, or Sheila / Keith Landry or other well known designers patterns.. I've had seize letters and items taken down from Etsy and Amazon from items I've made from these designers.. Same with a few of the puzzle patterns that Iggy is selling on his website.. I mentioned to the designers about the particular items and they never took them off their sites so you still can buy make and sell said patterns from these designers and get yourself into legal actions so don't think for a second that because the designers sell these they are safe.. I just wanted to make that clear to anyone that doesn't know this. I've had about 6 of these over the coarse of my 15 years of selling crafts online.. I have no issues with stopping selling something and never relist / sell a item that had been taken down.. I don't want to be sued but I also don't want to sit in a corner with my tail between my legs scared to make and sell things either.. The problem is.. there is so many copywrite / trademarked items out there that there is really hardly any way to keep track of some of them.. and people are going through the process to copywrite / trademark new items and sayings etc. every day so it's about impossible to keep up with it..

Well I've checked Sue Mey's site, Sheila's site and Wooden Teddy Bear and not a single snowmobile pattern of any kind.. I feel like it's probably something somebody just whipped up because I feel like if it were designed by one of these fine artist they'd had put more details in it.. This looks more like someone stuck a piece of snowmobile clipart and combined it with one of Cherry Trees desk clock frame designs..

You can always reach out to the seller of Amazon and ask.. While I think that is wrong for them to not have this in the description you could mention that to them as it is important for your customer to know what they are getting.. There are a lot of sellers that do not understand this and overlook it thinking you should know, or whatever.. just oversite maybe.. but if you have concern ask.. Edit: maybe off topic but I find a lot of eBay and Amazon design sellers actually selling designs that are not their own... It's crazy how people just think they can use and do whatever they want on the internet.. If it's online they feel it's public domain..

I'm thinking this is something someone did up themselves. Customer said they got it at a second hand thrift store and they want another one for their other son. I don't recall seeing any snowmobile clock patterns.. Just thought I'd ask to see if anyone knows of this pattern or similar one..

I personally think you would do well with just putting out anything that you normally sell.. or is that what you do at these events, but have a few themed things as well? Sorry I don't do vendor events so I don't know.. Having went to one of these as a spectator and many others that probably go that have many other interest I would think you'd sell most anything at one.. Do you guys do well at these type of themed events, I get invites all the time from etsy where people looking for vendors, I always figured they must not be a very good event if they have to reach out to vendors on etsy, LOL Just last night I was invited to the Detroit Auto Sema show as a vendor, where they show concept cars and custom built cars etc. It's a once a year thing and absolutely huge event here in Michigan.. I don't do shows and am in no way interested in doing this large of a show for my first one, LOL I don't know how many people go through this show but it's two weeks long, first week is only for car manufactures, dealers, and news crews etc.. then the next week open to the public. If anyone is interested I'll see if I can pass the info onto you, LOL

That's what I was missing, LOL.. I was tired last night, actually still am as I've been really busy.. I must have missed that part or didn't comprehend it when I read that.. LOL.. Thanks for pointing that out..

Paul, I have mine hooked up to the foot switch and has been that way for a few years.. no issues so far.. Before I got the small vacuum set-up from Seyco I had my shop vac hooked up like that for about a year, just couldn't deal with the noise.. but the shop vac did way better dust collection through the EX-21's saw vac port than the Seyco vac system does..

I'm sure glad you're feeling better and having fun with making sawdust again.. Great work as always!

Wish I could help with the coloring, I'm not much of one to color wood either.. natural wood is my go too, If I were making it I'd probably seek out some bloodwood, LOL.. closest you get to red color you'd get with me. LOL Good luck, at least Poplar usually takes stain well,

Yeah no way am I brave enough to run a board on it's face on a jointer.. I have no problem running the edges on it so long as the board is at least 2-3 inch tall and use the push pad handle things.. Most boards I run though the jointer are 4 - 8 inch tall and I use it to smooth the edges for glue-ups.. Now that I have a decent table saw I probably could do without the jointer.. LOL

I have the basic same thing as Ray but I went the pricey route and bought a kit from Seyco.. https://www.seyco.com/dv-10a-cyclonic-action-scroll-saw-dust-collector/ That said, maybe I just scroll too much for this little rig but I'm not at all satisfied with this set-up. It does catch a lot of sawdust.. I have to either change or blow out the filter in the vac. about once a week.. and every couple weeks have to empty the gallon canister.. I can live with that part, however the sawdust on the top side of the table seems to get pushed around by my turning the work piece and within a hour or two I have a lap full of sawdust.. very little makes its way to the floor now that the dust is collected at the bottom of the table.. This system I have needs a suction hose at the top of the table as well.. I'm doubtful the vac is powerful enough to hook it up to a T for a second hose. I had much better results from a shop vac connected to the dust port on the Excalibur.. I bought a vac and a dust separator like Ray has to put on my Hawk a couple years ago.. I haven't hooked it up since I'm doubtful this is power enough to collect from both top and bottom.. @Rolfhas a nice set-up on his Hawk using some PVC pipe and a Festool MIDI vac... I plan to do something similar to what he has done for my Hawks, The older Hawks like my 226VS Ultra has the lower arm behind the angle mechanism and there is a hole in the stand with a plastic plug in it, I've seen people put a threaded fitting in there to hook up a vac. The new Hawk BM-226 I bought a couple years ago the lower arm extends out through the angle mechanism.. and if you set close to the saw the dust lands in your lap, LOL

Seems like you could just put a 90 pointed up to the ceiling to connect your hose to it? What am I missing here, LOL.. I know I've been out in the shop since 5am and now it's 11pm so it's been a long day but I feel like the 90 could just point upwards to your dust collector.. Guess I better get to bed but now I'm going to be trying to think of why you'd cut a hole in the top of the planer for a hose to go up to the ceiling when a 90 pointed up from the actual dust port would do the same thing.... I think? I've gotta be missing something here.. LOL

My old Ryobi planer I could run it down to 3/16 without issues.. however once I get to around 1/4" I start taking very light passes... Not much that I do in solid wood that is much thinner than that.. if I need it thinner then I just buy it that way, LOL. I much rather be sawing on the scroll saw than resawing and all the other fuss.. I get quite a lot of free lumber from my brothers lumber mill which is usually 4/4 or 5/4 thickness.. in that case since I mostly cut 5/8 - 3/4 I will resaw those.. From a business standpoint, for me to calculate the labor rate to make a board and the wear of bandsaw blades, planer knives etc. It's way cheaper for me to just buy the lumber in the thickness I need.. That might be a different story if I didn't have Johnson's Workbench within a 30 minute drive.. where they have about anything I want/ need in in the thickness I want / need.. if they don't have the thickness they'll make it for me while I shop.. LOL.. Re-sawing the free lumber from my brothers mill or the neighbors mill is worth while because I can get 2 5/8" - 3/4 boards to use.. You'd have to make a lot of thin boards to re-coop the cost of the drum sander when considering all factors of time and maintenance etc.. if you was buying it to simply make thin stock.