kmmcrafts

There was a person on here some time ago that drilled the ends of the Hawk thumb screws to accept the Excalibur inserts.. so there is that option as well.. those tips rotate on the Excaliburs because they have a fixed blade chuck head.. Hawk chucks can swivel back and forth so they're not necessarily needed..

Nope, LOL.. I have a Excalibur and three Hawk scroll saws and the Hawks are SAE and the Excalibur is metric... Been there tried that.. that being said though.. if they are dressed good on the Hawk.. I find you don't have to clamp them down with much force and less force helps them last much longer. If you get bent ends of the blade.. you have a few issues to look at.. first being is the end of the bolt completely flat, second is the set screw on the opposite side screwed in far enough.. and the third thing is.. are you clamping with too much force. I bought some new thumb screws from Hawk ( Bushton MFG) and you'd think they'd dress the ends flat.. I specifically bought from them thinking they'd be dressed flat.. Instead they sold me the same thing I'd get at a local hardware store at 1/3 the price, LOL.. I made my own tool just out of a piece of wood scrap to dress the screws on my power sander.. Just drill a hole the size so the screws will thread into the wood.. make sure you start them in straight.. screw them in until they just barely protrude the back side.. then have at it with the power sander or belt sander.. even just laying a piece of paper on the bench and hand sand it.. they'll get a nice flat smooth clamping edge.. Use some blue loc-tite thread locker on the set screw so it stays put. I like to use a feeler gauge to set set screw into the blade chucks.. this way both top and bottom set screws position the blade in the exact same position.. I pick whatever feeler gauge and place it in the slot where the blade goes and turn the set screw in until it slightly touches the feeler gauge.. might take some practice to get the right size feeler gauge so you can have enough space for the blade and get the thumb screw to go in as well. Hope that make some sense.

Actually there are adults building with legos on there and getting paid. What's to say once you get some fame and following people don't follow whatever "other" interest he moves onto next. To be quite honest it's not super hard to make videos that interest people.. I do videos on TikTok and Clapper of just putting together the wood dog puzzles that I make.. start the video with just all the pieces laid out and put it together must interest people because I get paid for those videos plus is advertises what I make and sell and I get lots of request from them.. The pay isn't like going to make me rich but a extra $50 a month from each site is a extra bit of spending money. I haven't tried to get paid from FB or Instagram... actually didn't try getting paid from the others either but one of my followers suggested setting up payments and try it. They won't cut a check until you get a $100 balance so I'm not really paid every month. and sometimes I don't make it for 3 months.. who cares as I said, I'm not doing that for the money.. If I were I'd be posting up several videos a day rather than just a few here and there.. been slacking for the last 4-6 months as I'm busy doing car builds.. which soon can also make me money off those accounts to help fund the build, LOL You can literally make money just documenting things you do everyday.. it's a real reality show that you record and put on these sites.. I guess that entertains people interested in that niche. Watching people build legos isn't my thing.. but car builds and similar things can grab my attention.. Who needs cable tv etc. when there is Youtube and many sites like it that are real ordinary people doing real things and you can search to watch whatever you like when ever you like.. Cable TV and Hollywood could fall off the face of the earth someday over just ordinary people doing their own thing.

Welcome to the village, glad to hear you beat the cancer and getting into the scroll saw side of woodwork. I've been scroll sawing since around 2005 and I still ask questions. Scroll sawing has sooo many different types of projects but not so much always the project types but even material types.. then there is always "other" aspects to discuss such as finishing etc.. To answer your question about plywood.. when using thin stock plywood is more stable.. also sometimes hard to source large enough solid hardwood thin pieces for cutting large pictures such as maybe 16 x 20 inch etc.. unless you do a glue up etc.. gluing thin boards can be challenging and you'd need a big planer to plane down a glue up.. plywood fills that gap easily but I think the primary reason is the stability. Most use Baltic Birch as it is a really solid strong plywood with no voids etc. Denny has sample packs. I'll post a link to them, posting links helps his sight get higher rank in google searches so anytime one ask.. I mention him but I also try to put a link as they build traffic to a site much better and faster. https://www.artcraftersonline.com/search-results?q=sample+pack

If you or anyone cannot solder in a new one Seyco sells a replacement with the cord and plug in on it so it's just plug and play. But that said you'll need to take more of the saw apart to access the plug end of it to the circuit board.

Two things I would like in my next printer is 1) a color printer and 2) dual paper trays.. one tray for regular paper and a second tray for my full sheet shipping labels to print my patterns on.. right now I have to open up the paper tray for every time I print a pattern.. I no longer print my shipping labels with my big printer though so the second thing would be a nice feature but not as necessary as it once was.. LOL. I bought a small dedicated label printer a Dymo 450XL.. had it for about 3-4 years now and would be lost without that thing. It's a thermal printer so no ink to fuss with.. You do have to buy special rolls of the labels but there are aftermarket on eBay that work well and less than half the branded ones. If I only made small stuff (ie ornaments and keychains etc) I could almost do without a printer.. I have at times printed my patterns on the little 4 x 6 self stick labels from that little Dymo printer, LOL

My last printer was a Epson large format printer, can't remember the model. It did "okay" for printing.. my biggest complaint about it was if it set for more than a few days the print head had to go through the "cleaning" process to work correctly and of coarse I wouldn't know it until I printed my paper and only half of it printed so not only waste ink but paper too, LOL.. Then it'd use a crap ton of ink to "purge" / clean the print head... My current printer is a Brother HL-L2390DW.. It's just a cheapy laser printer that is only black and white.. I do a fair amount of printing with printing receipts for my orders I get and also patterns etc.. easily $200 a year in ink for my old printer. This current one I blew through the toner ink whatever it's called for laser printers fairly quick and I was a bit concerned about it not being much if any cheaper thank my inkjet printer was.. but once I replaced the one that it came with.. I've been on this first replacement for a long time and it showing I have only used up about 50% of it.. I'll be upgrading it to a color laser printer for sure, I thought I could do without the colors but forgot about how I like to print the outline lines red for my patterns.. so my biggest complaint is that it's not a color printer and my second complaint is that it's not a large format.. while I didn't use the larger format papers often it sure was handy to have with my old printer.

I'd be more apt. to buy a lightly used Excalibur in the $3 - 500 range locally and buy Pegas clamps. At least that way I'm able to "try" before I buy.. same warranty less investment.

I'm amazed they offer a 2 year on a new saw but nothing on the refurb.. I think I'd stay away from it. The way it's worded to me is "out of warranty" meaning older than 2 years since it was sold? I'm not sure but I feel it is a bit pricey if it's "out of warranty" and they don't want to stand behind the product that had been repaired, even if it was just a 30 30 - 60 days etc..

We had some strong storms last week roll through, I got a small limb come down that I still need to clean up.. power was out for about 3.5 days. Thankfully I have a generator so life wasn't disturbed a whole lot. I normally wouldn't run the generator all day but since my wife, my youngest son, and myself work here from home I ran it during the daytime hours but shut it down shortly after dinner and clean-up was done. Then of coarse, I have to get up before the wife and get it fired up so she can get her coffee before she has to actually talk to people for work, LOL. This later part of last week and up until Tuesday this week it's supposed to be humid, not necessarily "hot" at mid to upper 80's even low 90's but this 80 - 98% humidity is for someone besides the human race. We get some summer days with higher humidity sometimes but I don't ever remember getting such high humidity that my shop floor is actually wet and sweating.. maybe that is my sweat, LOL.. I really haven't done much more than I have too outside the last few days, Got several orders that I've been putting off until "hopefully" a better day but looks like tomorrow I'm going to have to work.. like to put it off another day but then I'll be cutting it too close to the deadlines..

Probably about half of my tools were bought as refurbished. I've had great luck with them. IF I was in the market for a Pegas I wouldn't be scared of no warranty because anytime I've had a tool that has failed under warranty I just fixed it myself anyway.. The one time I did have a tool repaired under warranty it was put back together wrong and didn't work right until I took it apart and corrected it anyway and I was without the tool for like 7-8 weeks so why take the fuss of them having it for weeks and messing up something else anyway.. I guess some folks get lucky with it. The lower price point I dive in thinking I may have to buy parts and do a repair just as I would with any used tool purchase, the point of buying at a low enough price that you may end up putting some money in it and hope to still have save some money off original cost. A new motor is probably the most expensive part.. I'm guessing about $300 for one.. don't hear of a lot of motor issues with them but it does happen. IF I were buying a new Pegas I'd go with that refub and chance it that I'm saving $180 or whatever it is.. I've had my Excalibur apart several times.. not a lot to these saws in my opinion other than the electronics can be pricey but easy to change. My issue with the no warranty is if it's failed to be checked out good and I get a some that don't work at all.. I take the no warranty as in not returnable.. so if I was to buy it and right off the bat out of the box it don't work.. then what? I feel like they should have a short warrantee period and stand behind the product at least for a 30 day period. If it's not going to be stood behind at all then it should be sold as used and at a used price.. like.. $400 - 600 ish at most.. According to Bearwood's email back to me if it just had a scratch or a stripped bolt that was corrected.. why won't they stand behind the product just the same as a new one?

I do agree that a refurb with no warranty should have a lower price but that isn't what I meant by $200 cheaper.. the original price for a "new saw" is $940.. the refurb is $748 almost $200 cheaper than a new saw.

I like the "Morning Star" brand black bean burgers from the grocery store.. they're pretty good.. not something that really taste like a real burger but they're good, slightly spicy..

Bearwood just now emailed back.. this is copied from the email: Hi Kevin! These are saws that would have had a small defect IE stripped threads on a screw, scratches on the table, and other small defects that were fixed by the technicians at Grobet USA with work directly with the manufacture. Please let me know if you have any other questions! Shelby

Much braver than I am, LOL.. My son and daughter, actually my wife too.. tried that ( I think it's called ) impossible burger from Burger King.. they said you really couldn't tell that it wasn't a regular Whopper.. I've thought about trying it a few times now.. I'd just be mad if I went out to eat and didn't get my satisfaction of it being the real whopper, LOL

Maybe you mis-understood, They are $200 cheaper than the new price that they had the "new" saw listed for.. or maybe you meant $450 cheaper instead of $200 cheaper.. hmm maybe I mis-understood your comment.. either way I think you are corrct about it being something Bearwood is doing as any manufacture refurbished tools I've ever seen come with the same warranty or some are like 6 month instead of a year etc.. and as far as I can tell these have no warranty.. I sent Bearwood an email inquiring about where the refurbs come from and "who" is doing the refurb. I have just got home and haven't checked my email yet..

I'd have been nervous too, I like cars and love driving old cars etc.. but only if I'm the owner.. I have a friend that is always wanting me to test run his car after he's done some performance stuff to it etc.. I don't care if it's an old clunker, that old clunker is someone's pride and joy or their only means to get around.. and my luck it'd break or someone crash into me etc.. so yeah.. I prefer not to drive others cars..

Earlier today I was checking out Bearwood site for some specialty dowel rods and thought I'd snoop around the site.. They're offering refurbish Pegas saws? about $200 ( if I remember right ) cheaper.. think it said no warranty though so what kind of refurb is that? Most other refurbs I've bought either come with the same or at least came with a short warranty period.. Thought they stood by their products better than that.. LOL. I kind of think maybe they're not refurbished by the manufacture the way they have that warrantee bit written up.. https://www.bearwood.com/product8099.html

Yes, I'll make another one someday.. If not, I felt good to give it to someone that'd appreciate it and one who had helped me..

Yeah, always was a kid that liked cars... had my first car to fix up at 12 years old and had it ready for the road in 4 years when I finally was old enough to drive " legally " on the road.

I'm not much of a gardener I guess.. I thought I was as everything veggie wise grows awesome.. in fact I give a lot of it away.. with the talk from our leaders about possible food shortages I thought I'd grow more than veggies, so this year I tilled up a much larger garden... bought some real nice steaks, ribs and bacon seeds put it out in the garden and watered it daily.. Not a single meat product grew... I'm wondering if I watered too much? anybody know? Most of it didn't grow I think because maybe some critter took some of my seeds. Also wondering if maybe I need to put "miracle grow" on it.. I think it'd be a miracle if any of it grew.

I use it and do so for fretwork as well but it really depends on the project at hand.. layout of the pattern is really important because if you have a lot of fragile areas that could break along the grain direction there is more chance it would break.. if you can place the pattern so the fragile parts are against the grain it'll make for a less fragile piece. I still use oak from time to time, not my favorite to work with but also if it does break it usually does so along the direction of the grain and usually a pretty smooth break that most times could be glued back in fairly easy without seeing a glue line. Back in my first getting into the scroll saw work I worked mostly with oak before I learned of BB plywood. I used solid 1/8" oak for my portraits.. Here is one of my solid oak pieces I made from 1/8" red oak.

No I haven't had any issues with breaking the H or E in my clocks and I've made a lot of them with text.. I do not like working with Oak and most all my clocks are made from Cherry. Oak likes to break along the grain and I have had a E break once with a clock made with Oak.. The base is also cherry.. from the same board.. in fact the board was about 8-10 wide so I placed the base pattern right below the trucks so it's even from the very same section of the board. Probably the photo angle or maybe because you're not really seeing the top of the grain ( face ) in these pictures you're more seeing the edge grain. I always try to make the bases from the same section of board as there are some different colored wood grains etc. in most any species of wood so I try to keep them with the same section of lumber so they match.

Made a clock of the car I'm building.. BUT, now that I made it and the local performance shop owner that specializes in these cars is really into these little Chevy Cobalt SS Supercharged cars and has been consulting me a little on my build.. well I may just give it to him since he has helped steer me in the direction I'm going with my street / track car and has saved me a ton of money.. he could have sold me a lot of parts I really didn't need, LOL Anyway, cut from Cherry using a FD-UR #5 balde.

The problem is most likely a setting in your browser.. what setting? who knows.. I had a similar problem some years back that wouldn't allow images from off site.. (ie back in the day when everyone use a photo hosting site and linked the photo to the forum rather than uploading to the forum.. the setting in my browser would only allow images on the site I was on.. if the background link to the image was from a photo hosting site I couldn't view it, .. I'm thinking you have some similar setting issue going on..