kmmcrafts

One of my first few saws had quite a lot of vibration. I took a piece of carpet padding and placed it between the saw and the stand and bolted it back down. You don't tighten the bolts all the way down.. just snug them up enough to hold it in place.. Good to use lock-nuts or loktite on the bolts you have. What I did was run the saw through the speeds as I tightened up each bolt.. too tight you get vibration.. too loose you get vibration.. if you keep adjusting the bolt tightness and run through the speeds you'll eventually find a sweet spot where there is the less amount of vibration. Might not ever get rid of it completely but you can fine tune it to a speed on the dial that you like to cut at.

Thought you guys might get a laugh from this. https://www.tiktok.com/@kozycontainers/video/6987957790635560198?sender_device=pc&sender_web_id=6934077605922653702&is_from_webapp=v1&is_copy_url=0

This one looks like about the same model saw? There used to be a 20" Craftsman saw that was a work horse of a saw. I don't remember what model it was or what it looked like, just remember it was highly spoken of back when I first started sawing in about 2005 ish. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/528897635121288/?ref=browse_tab&referral_code=marketplace_general&referral_story_type=general&tracking={"qid"%3A"6987915577404448868"%2C"mf_story_key"%3A"989866645847736057"%2C"commerce_rank_obj"%3A"{\"target_id\"%3A989866645847736057%2C\"target_type\"%3A6%2C\"primary_position\"%3A11%2C\"ranking_signature\"%3A5384998092707725312%2C\"commerce_channel\"%3A501%2C\"value\"%3A0.00056479076514288%2C\"upsell_type\"%3A3516%2C\"grouping_info\"%3Anull}"%2C"lightning_feed_qid"%3A"6987914941577997492"%2C"lightning_feed_ranking_signature"%3A"6502831453968007168"}

For buying stuff you live in a great area, well unless you want mineral spirits or some other thing that isn't allowed in your county, LOL.. as for used saws here in Michigan, especially in northern Michigan where he is.. There isn't ever much out there for quality saws.. at least right now.. about 4-5 years ago there was a lot of Hawks and Hegners out there and at good prices. Like I said, I gave $100 for my first Hawk and $400 for one that was still in the original boxes with a bunch of books with both saws both came with mag lights and foot switches too.. many blades as well but I'm not into those big blades with only a couple big teeth on them, LOL

This is a nice saw I posted a while back in the deals section here.. I'm thinking Kalamazoo is quite a drive from Beaverton.. But you never know... maybe they know someone up your way and you could meet up somewhere. I honestly can't believe it's not sold yet.. Kalamazoo is only about 30 minutes from me and I've thought about this saw on and off.. Heck you might be able to offer 250-275.. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/324979182428428/?ref=search&referral_code=marketplace_search&referral_story_type=post&tracking=browse_serp%3A0d54ec59-550f-4eb9-bb44-1d5a0769e3c9 I have a old 16" Delta that you could have.. It'd need cleaning up and some minor fixes.. I doubt you'd really want it though.. it is a late 80's two speed model 40-560 type 2. Has the upper quickset ll blade clamp but it is the first style they came out with so it doesn't have the nice little thumb screw to adjust the chuck for different sized blades.. and the lower blade holder had to use that goofy special wrench to line of the clamp correctly. Ran good years ago.. I put some new bearings and bushings in it but it has sat in the shed and the table top got rusty as I didn't keep up on keeping it waxed / oiled.

I had a Dremel 1800 scroll saw that you turn the tension lever to adjust the tension and to "apply" tension you flipped the lever over. I think this saw is the same principal.. On my Dremel the rod at the back was nothing but a piece of maybe 1/8" flat stock and held onto the arms with roll pins.. No bearing or nothing.. not even grease, LOL. Anyway as the holes in the flat stock wore out I continually had to keep turning the adjustment lever until I could no longer turn it any farther.. Then I started cutting blades with some side cutters, LOL. Finally broke down and bought a new connecting rod is what they called it I think.. worked like a charm for another 6-8 months and then the same thing.. Next time it wore out I made my own flat stock.. but again it wears out.. Just a poor design in my opinion.. I repaired it one more time and ordered a new DeWalt from Grizzly and as soon as the DW was set up I put the Dremel on Craigslist and sent it to someone else, LOL

I was going to mention this in my post but forgot to add it. I'm sure shelf liner and other things may have a different mix of silicon depending upon the product needs. I work mostly with cherry.. only time I ever had a problem is when I trace with a pencil the outline of a base or something and use no tape or anything on it. I also find that FD-UR blade that used to be my go to blade burns the cherry much more easily than does the Pegas MG blades. Maybe the blade design makes for a cooler running blade as maybe it's clearing the sawdust better. I can cut Cherry without anything on it with no burning with a Pegas blade.. not so with ANY of the blades offered by FD ( I've tried them all over the years ). Might be the way I feed the wood to the blade or the speed I cut at.. either case Pegas is pretty much my go to blade partly for this reason. I'm not certain if it's 100% the blade changing to Pegas.. But in either case the shelf liner and or the shipping label creates the same lubricant properties as the packing tape.. at least in my experience. But could be a mix of the Pegas blades and the liner / label as I switched all about the same time to all of these.

Such pretty white rags, I bet the stain doesn't come out of them.

I never used them for woodwork but if you have a local auto body shop supply around you'll find some good quality ones.. may not be cheap though.. also if you ever need sanding paper.. autobody shops don't mess around with cheap junk usually.. at least that is my experience in my area.. One weekend years ago I needed a tack cloth for a car I was painting. Autobody supply shops not open on the weekend, so I went to a local big box store and bought some.. Those things are junk.. like you said.. very sticky, they left a sticky residual on the car and ruined my paintjob.. Not fun having to sand down and repaint a car because of a cheap tack cloth.. I will say also you don't need to "press" on them.. just lightly glide the cloth across the surface and it'll pick up dust etc. like a magnet. As they pick up more dust they obviously get less tacky / sticky.. then you can press on them some.

Don't really have to put it on top of the pattern, it can go on the bottom side of the pattern, Also if you are one to use shelf liner.. OR shipping labels, most any self adhesive products have the chemical in it to lube the blade.. at least that is my understanding of it.. I happen to use both shelf liner and shipping labels.

Every now and then I fine a blade that seems to start out dull but not very often. Though I buy enough blades to last me a long time. Usually 3-6 gross at a time. I haven't ordered any blades since April.. and probably won't need any until late fall. You didn't mention what brand of blades in question? I stared out with a cheap 9" ryobi bandsaw and upgraded the guides etc.. but in very short time I learned the resawing wasn't all that practical on it since the max. height was only about 4-5 inch.. did work great for resawing with a good blade though and I made many thick boards into thinner boards for ornaments. I upgraded to the Grizzly 14" Anniversary edition and bought the riser block etc. I love the saw but honestly I don't use it as much as I thought I would. Resawing is a great way to make lumber to your needed thickness but also requires a planer if you don't have one yet? I think this WEN might be a decent starter saw for you. Not sure if it will accept a riser block or not. Maybe you don't plan to resaw with it as you didn't really mention the use of it. I payed pretty close to that price for my saw but with the added goodies ( riser block, rolling base, etc. ) I had close to a grand into mine.. Wish I had gone a few bucks more and got the larger model that included the rolling stand and already had the 12" resaw capacity.. But mine works well for the stuff I've done with it.

Only time I've ever noticed any difference is when cutting wood that burns easily such as Cherry.. One thing also is blade speed, if you run a saw on slower speeds there is less friction / heat so you may not notice a difference... That being said.. If it helps from burning Cherry it must have some sort of lubrication effect thus making blades run cooler and last longer. It's been said that it is one of the compounds in the glue in the adhesive that is a lubricating properties. There are some folks that will have a block of wax by the saw and when installing a new blade they run the saw and rub that wax on the sides and back of the blade too.

Congrats on the new saw.. Those 4 legged stands are kind of a nuisance in my opinion.. LOL It seems Delta, DeWalt, and Hegner have the three legged stand figured out.. But then.. everyone has their own preference and comfort level.. I use the foot switch on the floor for my at first. I've always been used to setting tall at all my saws as the DW stand is kinda tall.. On the DW I mounted the foot switch to the bottom brace of the stand which worked well.. Then the Hawk saw had know place to put a switch so I had some 6 x 6 post cutoffs from my pole barn which worked about to be the perfect height so each Hawk has it's own 6 x 6 block with a cable staple holding the cord out of the way. The EX I set the stand as high as it would go and also use the 6x6 blocks, LOL

I honestly don't think there is a difference in bearings between the Pegas and the King, EX etc.. Why do I say so? You can download the manuals for each saw.. each manual gives the bearing "size" in the specs sheet and all numbers match.. Pretty sure Bob Duncan was blowing salesman smoke when he mentioned the bearing thing on a different forum where I read it.. BUT.. I very well could be wrong because I'm only going off the manuals.. and the Pegas manual is a bit mixed with the EX, King etc.. as some of the picture diagrams show the drawing with a EX style blade chucks.. rather than updating those photos with an actual Pegas chucks on it.. Maybe they've updated it by now.. Who knows.. Maybe someone should take one apart and verify the bearing sizes to the manual specs, LOL.. Either case, both are great saws.. Honestly don't think the China made EX is horrible so long as one expects to "need " to tinker with it and that the original bearings is only good for maybe a year or two at best.. I did use mine a lot.. I don't think the bearing issues was really any different than the DW saw I had.. I suspect the saw will last a bit longer now that I put in some better parts / grease.. but who knows maybe not. The biggest issue with the China made saw that I see is the blade chucks are pure junk.. and the sloppy threads for the arm adjustment knob at the back of the saw could use some tighter tolerances.. Not sure that's an entirely China made saw issue since I've seen this mentioned with the other versions too, loctite did wonders for that issue, others just use rubber bands or tape etc..

I use a lot of 1/8" BBply and what I find is.. if you pre-sand the ply to get a real smooth surface it works very well IF, you don't leave the liner on the plywood for several weeks, LOL.. I typically have my projects done and peel it off within a week and never have any issues. I had never thought of spraying a coat of sealer on as Don mentioned.. I think if sanded and sprayed you'd certainly not have any issues. I also find that the BBply if it gets older will absorb the moisture out of the air and if you live in a higher humidity area.. it can loosen the fibers and some start lifting on their own adding a sticky liner to it ( especially without sanding those loosened fibers off and creating a better surface then yes.. it'll lift off the fibers.. the key is to start with a good piece of ply in the first place.. I don't find the liner to come off any harder than the painters tape.. actually a lot easier because you have one full sheet on liner rather than several strips of tape.. Also I should note.. do not let the project set in the sun or higher heat spot.. It does get more sticky then and can lift fibers.. In the case you do have a issue it can help to heat it lightly with a hairdryer or heat gun to help loosen it. I did this once by mistake as a neighbor came by and distracted me and I set my project on the picnic table in the sun.. when the project was complete the liner was stuck really well, LOL. I set it in the sun for an hour or so to warm it back up and it did eventually come off much better so a hairdryer or ? to add a little warmth to it can help in those situations.

Congrats on the new saw.. and good luck with the rebuild when you get around to messing with the DW. I think you're going to like that Seyco a lot..

You do amazing work keeping up with all those social sites along with this place too. Thank you!

Thanks Ray, I thought a PM would be better than just posting someones number out on public forum was why I asked for PM

If you guys go to the link and click for his contact info do you get a error message? If you come up with a number to text can you PM the number to me? I have a feeling my son's homemade internet security system isn't allowing me to see the number. He did 3 years on cyber security schooling at the local career center as part of his high school elective class programs and he entered competitions across the world.. came in like 40th place of 1000's of people including folks that do it for a living.. now he's a pro at it in his mind and constantly changing my settings and also hacking my computer for playing jokes on me etc.. he has our internet so secure I can't even see advertisements that I want to see, LOL as in the shopping cart.. you know when you shop and some sites bring a pop-up of your shopping cart so you can checkout.. yeah.. I can't checkout unless I have his permission. I'm just thankful he hasn't hacked something big and have the Feds knocking on my door.. My friends grandson did that to them,

My brother owns a sawmill business and he does use metal detectors on all the logs before they go into the mill. Back in the 70's he had a mill that used a big circle blade with changeable teeth.. When working for him as a teenager I used to look forward to those nails.. it gave me a chance to get caught up stacking the lumber and a chance to walk the 1/4 mile up to the house for a drink of water. He now uses a big bandsaw style blade.. Boy when one of those things break.. sounds like a cannon went off. Thankful that don't happen often.

It's nice to see your work shared, Congrats for being the chosen one, LOL I remember the first time I seen one of mine I had to do a double take and at first thought Hey someone stole my project or photo and posted it.. Then a closer look and realized it was just shared by the Village Hahaha.. Only way I really knew it was mine for sure was I designed the pattern and never shared it with anyone, LOL

I think you could use a piece of 1/4" BBply to cut out small bearing press collars.. I don't think a complete set of collars is needed if they aren't going to be used again. I actually used a socket from my socket wrench set that was exactly the same diameter as the bearings. I also used one on the opposite side just larger than the bearing to support the piece. I picked up some side to side movement with my DW as well and it ended up being the rocker arm bearings / sleeves was worn more on one side of the bearing more than the other.. There are two separate bearings in the rocker arm at the same pivot point with one long sleeve to go through. I constantly had issues with the bearings in the lower arm at the front of the saw.. My guess for the reason is that all the sawdust when cutting seems to fall right onto the moving mechanism of the lower arm. Fine wood dust doesn't necessarily damage the metal bearings as wood is softer than the metal, But what does happen in my opinion is that sawdust absorbs the moisture out of the grease. I half wonder if this isn't the issue for your saw.. sound can travel through those link arms and make it sound like it's at the back of the saw. I used to take the front lower bearings apart about every 8-12 months just to clean and regrease. In doing so I would find the grease dry and or turned into a harden paste yet the top front of the saw was still nicely greased.. My reasoning for the thought of the sawdust dropping down onto all the lower bearings.. Same ordeal on my Excalibur until I bought the Seyco dust vacuum.. Now those bearings stay lubed up well.. I think a dust collection of some sort can serve two positive purposes.

I think Seyco IS the only place where you can easily buy parts online for these type of saws. Pegas being the new kid on the block so to speak, haven't been around long enough for a "need" yet.. and I can certainly understand on the business end of things not wanting parts setting around collecting dust. Maybe there should be a website to " order " needed parts set up so at least folks could have some sort of outlet once that need arises. I also think this could help in the sales of Pegas saws and other items.. I've seen many times people asking where parts could be had for Pegas and then not really seeing any sources choose to buy a Seyco instead because parts are listed right on Seyco's site.

I'm not sure what a good deal is on a Hegner in most places.. I've only ever seen these in my area for $350+ and the ones with the up front tension release seem to always be $500 - 800+ so to me this might seem like a deal, I might see if I can look at it but thought I'd get some opinions from the Hegner experts on here first. I told my wife I need another saw because business is so busy that I can hardly keep up with only the 4 saws I have now. Not sure if she realize I can only run one at a time but it sounded good to her so I thought I'd look at this. DUH: I guess I could have showed the link, LOL https://lansing.craigslist.org/tls/d/williamston-hegner-multimax-18-scroll/7340836016.html $200 in blade is great but so far in my dealings with saws that come with blades is they are blades I'd never use.. like maybe a #50 ( do they make a #50 LOL.. Huge blades anyway.. I'm going to offer $200 for the saw and they can sell the blades to someone that can use them.

I think you'll love either saw, and I do agree that Pegas lacks in service centers and even parts sourcing.. Nobody seems to know where you go for a bearing, sleeve, or rocker assemblies.. Pegas is still new and they haven't had to deal with major parts yet.. at some point there are going to be people needing parts and no way to figure out where or who to get them from.