savethebeer

a; it's Chestnut. I cut Rocking Around The Christmas Tree today in about 2 hours. The wood was so easy to cut and the finish was good. This is 12mm and I had no problem with blade heating up and the only issue with breakout is the lower point on the star. b; Sanding Vibration. I have a cordless Dremel and I have a corded generic copy of the Dremel. The Dremel I keep beside the saw with a micro bit for when I've missed a place that requires a hole with the drill press. The other one I use with the attached extension thingy and I use this when sanding or anything else that needs a precise tool. I am in the process of building 4 large Swibboggen which is over 30 long pieces of BB, and also many other smaller once off projects, and they all required some work to deal with fuzzies on the back. I stacked all the pieces on my bench and went through them one after another, for well over an hour. After I stopped, I made some tea, and noticed a tingling/minute movement in my right index finger. This was only apparent when I lifted the cup, or touched anything. My finger vibrated for well over 40 minutes and it frightened me. There had been hardly any feeling of vibration whilst I was sanding, with the speed set at about a third. I changed the extension thingy to the Dremel and tried it but there was no difference at all in noise, or vibration. I will be very carefull in future and only do a piece or two at a time.

I’ve suddenly realized its that time of the year again. Its when I put Spiral blades in my saw. Its also the only time that I use spirals. I’m running off a couple of Swibboggen (German candle arches) I did some last year but this time I’ve enlarged the pattern from about 10 inches to 14 inches. At that length I find the whole effort of holding my breath whilst I swing the wood to do the other angle of the cut to be too much. So the spiral does away with the need to rotate the wood at each change of direction. It also helps that snow covered scenery does not have many straight lines. Here is several of them, stack cut 2 at a time in 4mm, waiting on stain, varnish, glue, and lights. I think this year I’m also doing better on the straight lines than previously. I have managed to cut the grooves straight in the base, last year I would have changed to an ordinary blade for the straighter cuts. The two issues I've noticed with spirals, and I wrote a couple of years ago about them, I've no problem with large cuts. I'm also good when the cut is one blade width but I have issues when the cut is only slightly thicker than 1 blade thickness. The other issue is my spirals seem to unravel as I work. Each time I change holes, the blade shank seems to have rotated anti clockwise slightly so that over time the spiral twists don't seem to be as tight as when I started out with that blade.

Hello from Balbriggan Leonard. Great to have another local. You will enjoy the village. Very friendly bunch. Bob

Thanks Guys. I'm now on my second layer, the one with Santa and the Reindeer. I was giggling a lot to myself earlier and thinking that if I called to any of your doors right then, it would not be to ask to speak to you all about 'Our Lord and Saviour', it would be to wax lyrical about spirals. Then I reached those parts that proved that I'm a long way from being able to use spirals exclusively. The bottom edge of each layer, you all know that edge that has to sit on the base, the edge that needs to be a straight cut to sit properly. Well I can't do a straight 16 inch cut with a spiral. So I'm back on the flat blade for this second layer, but I was delighted how fast the spiral cut through the first piece so I will use the spiral on the two outer layers of trees and foreground shrubbery. Kevin. life is too short to get stressed out, so if its not ready for this Christmas, then it'll be done for the following one, or the next one. Scott, all I meant was my normal application of spray-on glue was not enough the hold the heavier paper. With this second cutting I applied more glue and it working fine.

I've just googled the blades and they have teeth as opposed to steel bristles that I've seen on other blade.

I've just started a new Schwibbogen (candle arch). And no I'm not 4 weeks late, I'm 11 months early, so there. I asked a friend to enlarge it and she changed it from 9 inches the 16 inches wide pattern, which is a lot more wood to deal with. Also the larger size meant a heavier paper which I never thought of. So I'm on the first layer, of 5 layers, in 4mm BB using a Pegas #7MG. Problem # 1 is its too wide to rotate the wood when I'm sitting. For some reason I'm unable to suck in that gut enough, so the chair had to go. I was then happily working away for about 2 hours when i realised my legs were beginning to hurt from standing still so the chair had to be brought back. Then I remembered I had 1 pack of spirals that I got 5 years ago to try but never did, so I changed the blade to a spiral. I've now done dozens of those fiddly little branch/leaf holes in all the trees and I'm loving it. I've even done a few straight cuts for windows and doors and I'm happy with the results. The spirals I got when I bought a previous saw, are SSB-PG0746. I've no idea what that would correspond to with more popular makes, but the kerf is fairly thin. My questions for spiral users, Do they work as well for stack cutting?. Also it seems to me that when I'm reattaching the top clamp for each new cut, the shank seems to be at 90 degrees to the normal position and I have to twist the shank to fit in the clamp. Can these blades 'unwind' in use? The other problem is the heavier paper means my normal spray of glue onto the pattern is not enough to hold the paper down. There is a lot of lifting of the pattern so I will have to use more spray on my next piece.

Just spent 15 minutes wiping oil into the pillar and the chuck and later I'll take the vacumn into the hard to reach corners of the shop and look for any more evidence of neglect. I had promised myself that this year I would actually decorate the rest of the house and buy some good furniture, but this is way toooo important to leave to chance.

Last Year (yesterday) I went into the shop and something caught my eye that I hadn't noticed before, despite being in the shop 5 to 7 days a week for years. Whatever way the winter sun was coming through the window I realised the pillar of my pillar drill was rusty, then I noticed the chuck itself was also rusty. Then I started looking closely at everything and so far no more rust visible. All my tools, belt sander, bandsaw, and the drill are all tabletop ones so all reasonably small. The drill was bought new 3 years ago and is used every day I'm in the shop. I use a heater when its cold, and a dehumidifier, and a fan at other times and none of my patterns have ever gone all wavy sitting on the shelf nor have any wood gotten damp so this rust was a suprise. Anyone come across rust affecting their tools within the motor/machinery? I'm loathe to start removing panel and covers just on the off chance. Bob

there are lots of sail boat silhouettes on https://chantournage.wikeo.net/ and click on sails and sailboats. Bob

Very nice work Jeaheon. Nice clean cuts and I love your Animal atributes. Bob

Welcome to the village, friendliest place for scrollers you will never come across. Bob

I took out the SVG thumbnail above twice but it seems it does not want to obey. Just something to bear in mind. Bob

Here is my latest, Mother and stepfather of a friend. Done from GIMP, in 6mm BB. and finished in French Polish. I mentioned the photo converter yesterday as being suitable for some people, on some projects. Well below is the same photo done in the photo converter. I think I'll be sticking with GIMP for portraits. svg.svg

Very impressed. That is a lot of concentration. I myself am no stranger to very small pieces, but tbh they were broken off larger pieces, so don't really count. Bob

Hello Charles. So surprised to see your intro on the 'recruit' page. I cut one of your patterns years ago and love seeing your other patterns. Welcome to the village. Bob

Did this Friday night and Saturday morning. Its going in Damien's bar in his house for his retirement pressie (its a surprise so don't tell him). I have to add in a firefighter helmet and something else, and then shape it into a fancy plaque, then back it and stain it. Its 6mm BB. Did the S in Damien's with a Pegas 5 modified geometry. Face looked good but the back was rough so I changed to a Pegas # 3 reverse skip. Cut about 20 letters, and went off to bed. Next morning cut about 10 letters and then the blade broke. Over the next 2 letters, 3 # 3 blades broke. Changed back to the original # 5 blade and finished it without any problem. 1st # 3 broke because the top slipped from the clamp and the blade bent at the bottom before I could stop the motor, but I don't know why the next 3 broke. It certainly brings on bad language. Bob

I made the pattern from a cartoon I saw. A Halligan bar is what firefighters use for forced entry. Its like a crow bar on steroids. I stack cut this with the 4mm BB on top and the 5mm white plastic on the bottom. I have never done a saying by starting at one end and working through. It seems to go quicker if I do random letters. What I found with this one is I did all the dots over the I's, then all the a's, then all the e's, before I copped on to what I was doing.

Paul. I love the way you've done it. It would look great on a kids wall or a living room wall. Bob

Your photo does not show the glass. The frames I normally use come from Scandanavia and they don't actually have glass, just a glass effect plastic sheet so I normally leave it out. If I could I would check where my friend was going to hang the present, and I would check if the angles from nearby windows caused reflection on the glass, I would leave out the glass to prevent reflections. Bob

Just re read your post title, Don't waste the bottle. Have it yourself as a present to yourself, for getting it done on 4th attempt and handed off to your friend. She needn't know how much pain it caused you. bob

Brenda.I like the pattern and I like the way you've cut it. I would definitely leave it alone. What way will you finish it off, put it in a frame or attach hooks to the back. Bob

Jim. That is a very nice job. I love the way you've given it a better second life than its original life. What did you make the 8 knobs from Bob

Have given up for the weekend. Things started well enough but then found that my Pegas modified geometry no 5 was shredding my pattern. It cut the wood perfectly but I noticed the paper line being torn rather than being cut. Never had this happen before when it was impossible to do the reverse side of a peninsula because the pattern was unreadable and totally unable to follow the return line. The 'shredding' was probably similar to the effect one would get by using sandpaper on the edge of a paper sheet. Changed to a Pegas no 7 skip reverse and problem solved but I got a breakthrough several minutes later in the middle of an M in the middle of a saying. Decided there was no way to save the piece as there was no way to do hidden repairs so it went into the fire pile. Started a completely different project and within 20 minutes got two breakthroughs in noticeable locations so I just thought about using bad language, then I used bad language, and tossed this second piece. So here I am, sober cause I'm going hill walking tomorrow, and nothing else to do except talk to the village. Bob

Thanks JT, perfect answer. My own photo does not show up on my phone. It was fine on my laptop. Simple answer is I won't make circular baskets. As for finishing does your basket rings not stick together?

Just trying one of Steve Good's baskets.(I cut out the handle pattern and placed it around the basket pattern so I'll save on cutting) I've done the spiral cut of the basket then when I tried to push the basket out nothing moved. I then realised that the basket base had rotated with the cut. (See where the '3/4 Thick' has rotated from horizontal) When I rotated the sign back to horizontal the basket unfolded as it should, however as soon as I pushed it flat the sign rotated around again. I've done 3 baskets, 2 in MDF as a practice and a rectangular one in Cherry so this is the first circular one and this unfolding of the centre has me confused. How will I know after I strip the pattern off when I've counter rotated enough to make the basket, and it'll be disappointing to have to explain it to whoever I give it as a gift. I know if I was wired up with heart and breathing sensors that everything would slow down when I'm scrolling because it is my hobby and my relaxation. However with baskets I found its totally different for me, and I think its because that spiral cut is just too long. A moments inattention and I've gone off the line and what I found was I kept going off the line in the same location in every circuit. Go figure. Finishing. Has anyone tried dangling the basket upside down and gently opened up the spiral cuts the wrong way, where they all dangle like a peeled orange, to allow you to spray the wood? Bob