savethebeer

Thanks Kevin, your earlier post has the answers. I'll try one of those suggestions. Bob

I've started cutting some 22mm [almost 1 inch] basswood using Pegas # 5 reverse skip. Its my first time using basswood and I'm thrilled with the finish of the cuts. Its very soft in cutting, but I was amazed at how hot the drill bit got whilst doing the pilot holes. Couple of questions; Whats the best finish to use. First time using live edge. Is there any treatment I can use on the live edge to give it a longer life? The edge itself is well attached to the wood at the moment. Thanks Bob

Phil. Try www. ac-holzkunst.de also google volker . There are other but I'm on my phone so I don't know how to insert addresses

I don't wear ear muffs, the saw is not that loud. I do wear a facemask for the dust but I wear my own glasses for all cutting and I reckon they're good enough eye protection. Bob

Hello Perry. The above answers were done from my phone which is why I could not place a full answer because I can't copy and paste from my phone. The following is taken from the following site; https://www.christkindl-markt.com/pyramid-info-i-9.html What if my Pyramid isn't turning? First: Make sure the center rod is sitting centered on the glass cup (bearing). Many times it looks like it is sitting centered, but it may be off centered between the glass cup and the wood around it, making turning difficult. Using a flashlight, inspect under the lowest floor, look to see that the rod is indeed centered on the glass bearing. Second: Check the angle of the fan blades, they need to be at 30 degrees. So start out with the blades level to the floor, then turn them up to 30 degrees. Many times the blades are set to 60 degrees not 30 degrees and at that angle they may not turn the pyramid. Third: Drafty Room: An "open layout" or large room will have air moving in it. Even though it doesn't feel drafty to you, it may be. Realize that the heat from the candles gets dispersed easily if room air movement is present. If your pyramid is not turning due to drafts, then you can move the pyramid to a corner of the room or you can add an additional candles - this means placing a tealight candle (one that is a glass container) near the pyramid to help give more heat. Directions for Use and Assembly of Pyramids 1. Carefully unpack pyramid and accessories. 2. Gently lift the central pyramid rod a small amount, and remove the cardboard under the bottom floor. Then carefully place the rod (axle) on the glass bearing which is under the bottom floor. 3. Place the paddlewheel assembly on the top point of the pyramid rod (axle). For multiple level pyramids: Do steps 1 & 2 - then: 4. Put together the paddlewheel (put paddles at about a 30 degree angle) and place finished piece on the point of the pyramid axle. 5. Insert candleholders into the holes in the base made for that purpose. ** Put NO pressure on the rod while it is sitting on the glass bearing! ** Safety Tips Use only pyramid candles (not too tall!). The pyramid must stand firmly on a level horizontal surface and be protected from any drafts in order to function properly. Never leave the pyramid burning unattended especially around young children! Should the glass bearing become scratched or cracked , it is usually possible to replace it. See our parts dept for a replacement Do not burn candles in the mini pyramids (under 6-7 inches in height). They are there for decorative purposes only.

I made one 3 years ago and I used the base of a shot glass. I nibbled the glass with a pliers and the base was concave and it worked fine. Bob

I sit mostly and it suits for most jobs. The problem occurs when I'm doing a large piece and I have to swing it to cope with the cutting. I can only cope with holding my breath in for so long before I have to push the stool back and stand back from the machine. Bob

I did not want to ask this question because it would be mentioning Christmas whilst it is still August but Dave has broken that duck. I have 4 Schwibbogen [German candle arches] ready to make with a front and a rear face, with a battery operated set of lights on the back of the front face. However I'm thinking of adding in a real candle or two on each. I have brass candle holders which have flat bases so these will sit flat on the wood base. My question is does anyone know what I can use to prevent the wood scorching if someone was to let the candle burn right down. Bob

Brenda, here is one type of blade clamp that just hooks onto the pinned blade clamp. Can be a bit fiddly for some people, but you could leave something like this for those small holes and use the pinned for all the rest. Bob

Hello Brenda, Just had a look at the photos of yours on bragging rights. Well done. Nice cuttings. Also nice burning. Your name burnt into the two signs are very good but the writing on on the smaller dog sign is very high quality considering the size. What I would say about only using pin end blades, some saws can be fitted with catch/bracket that allows both pinned and pinless so that would be a cheap fix. I had family in Intake, just beside the racecourse, so I know Donny well. Bob

Sorry about this. I've had problems putting the two photos in the first post. Bob

It may seem that I've moved to the FUN zone permanently but I have never left my favourite hobby. I've been at scrolling for about 5 years and just been reminded about something I learnt way back and had obviously forgotten. I made the Fire Steamer for myself, took about 7 hours over 4 days, then with some spare time I did the Life Cycle in about 2 hours using some waste wood. I never took the wood thickness into account before starting. Lucky enough the steamer is BB in about 6mm, whilst the other one is BB in about 3mm. If it had been the other way I would not be a happy camper. I can twist and bend the second one very easily. With the steamer there were very many thin and weak islands, i ended up with only 1 breakthrough but it could have been so much worse. I dont know what to do with the life cycle but the steamer is mine. I still have to add in some embellishments to the pump and for that reason I bought myself a new Dremel 7750. This will supplement the generic rotary tool that I've had for 4 years. This information is purely boasting. I live alone so I never have to answer that question; 'What Do You Need ANOTHER Tool For'

Hello Innar, Welcome to the village from Ireland. There appears to be 2, 3 or 6 members in Estonia. [members map seems to have a glitch over Estonia] Bob

Thanks guys. I'll try a heavier blade next time. Bob

Wayne, It feels like Balsa wood. Fred, the problem only occurs as I'm cutting. Its as if the dust is too heavy to be blown off the cut line so stopping every few inches to blow off the dust would not work. I've finished the cutting tonight, got used to using the brush and I'm happy with the finish but I've no plans to use it again for detailed work. Bob

I've started making Schwibboggen (German candle arches). I've done 3 so far in BB, getting ready early for Christmas. I've started one this morning and I'm using wine box wood which is in 7mm. [my Daughter drank the wine]. I find this wood [whatever it is?] so soft and easy to use with one exception. My problem is the saw dust wont clear from the cuts as I do them. I have a small paint brush in my right hand and I have to flick the line at the blade at every change of direction. I suprised myself by getting into a rythmn of using both hands as normal and every now and again flicking the piece with the brush before returning the right hand to the piece. I have increased the saw speed to get more power into the blower which is a bit of a help. If I had more wine box wood to use I would restrict it to parts with as little pattern cutting as possible such as frames or the base. Bob

I found this review for Scheppach when I went looking for reviews of the EX21 which I have just ordered. I've had my Scheppach for 2 years now. I find it easy to use and control. it was a big step up from the previous low end saws that I owned and I still find it a pleasure to play with. The air blower gave up the ghost two weeks ago. With a previous saw I dismantled it and fixed/replaced parts without any difficulty, but I don't feel confident about doing that with my Scheppach due to it being a dearer machine than previous ones. I love the way you can change the table angle as you are cutting a piece. The table is solid steel and doesn't seem to show scratches. The biggest problem with the table is it is very cold when you rest your wrists on it. Blade change is a doddle. You need an Allen key to reach the lower blade clamp [after you tilted the table fully to the right] but the upper clamp is toolless. Not a problem after you've done it a few times. No footswitch is available. There is the usual attachment for connecting a dust hoover it is a bottom feeder. The fitted light is practically useless. I have an anglepoise table lamp that I use which is far superior. Whilst I have no issue with how cleanly the blades cut, I have found myself noticing some very minute movement in the blade as it cuts recently. I don't know if its my eyes or the saw. There is no noticeable vibration with the blade, nor have I moved the saw location recently nor do I notice this shimmy with particular types of wood or particular blades. I consider the Scheppach to be a good 'low mid-price' saw and I trust that I will be using it for many more years to come

Just wondering if anyone here ever changed to the glue sticks from spray-on glue to stick on the patterns. I've seen videos where patterns are stuck on with glue stick and seem to work ok. I'm just wondering is there much lifting of the pattern compared to spray-on? I tend to be a bit heavy with the spray to make sure I get full coverage on the pattern, so I'm open to any suggestions. Bob

Slow speed with a very fine blade is what I would advise. I've made about 20 over the years. Vinyl is great for placing a clock mechanism in the centre with lots of space left to fit your design. Bob

Got my EX21 last week. I love it. Some things that I never noticed in the reviews, and which I never had to think about with all my previous saws; My lower clamp seems to grip the blade at any depth of the blade shank, whilst the top clamp only worked when the top few millimetres of the shank were fed into the clamp. The blade just never locked in place if I tried to fit too much of the top section into the clamp. Also I knew my reverse tooth blade was not working properly at first. I had the blade set too low so that the reverse teeth were always below the table. I ended up fitting the lower blade first and had the clamp gripping the bottom few millimetres then raised the top arm with the tension knob to suit the blade length. That way the reverse teeth are now back in play and the top clamp just grips the top of the top shank. Changing holes is now a doddle with the blade just slotting right into the top clamp as if on auto. and I have never had to adjust the tension knob unless I change blades. I have really only tried bottom feeding so far but the top arm lifting out of the way makes hole changing super easy. I have difficulty with my efforts at top feeding so far. I'll have to find an interesting pattern and force myself to top feed the whole pattern so I'll be well practiced at top feeding. Vibration is still an issue. When it arrived vibration was very bad at high speed and noticeable at lower speeds. I followed the manual {eventually } and adjusted the motor so I moved the vibration levels away from the speed I normally use {about 45% speed} so I'll see how it works when I vary the wood type or the blades. Bob

Hello Aris, Welcome to The Village. Bob

Welcome Jean-Pierre. Its nice to have some one else on here from Europe. Look forward to your contributions to this site. Bob from Ireland.

Don't forget Resources. Its that section that Travis put together, full off instruction videos, tips, tricks, etc. Its at the top of this page, in the middle. Bob