savethebeer

I have cut this set twice, stack cut 2 of each in plywood, and stack cut 3 of each in white plastic. I am going to add coloured backer to the plastic ones and just paint the wooden ones. I am also going to have 2 of the sets hanging each side of a door frame, 6 each side. What has caught my eye is the 10 lords. He is an uncanny likeness to myself, both in body and dance style and I shall forever more sing '10 Bobs a dancing' when I get to that verse. Bob

Folks. who makes E-6000. Never seen it here in Ireland

Hello Marcin from Balbriggan, Co Dublin. Welcome to the best site on the web. From your gallery your well on your way to moving from newbie to pro. Bob

In Ireland we don't have Baltic Birch, we have Russian Birch. I suppose they are identical products. I will have to buy some by December so I'll let you know then.

Just letting you all know that it was very well received from both Louise & Dave, plus all their families earlier today. The funniest part was their reaction when I said I got the idea from friends from all over the world [that's you lot]. So just a reminder to appreciate the fact that big huge though the internet is, the village is so personal and friendly. Bob

Russell, Thanks again for your very quick upload of a pattern. As I had said previously I felt the need to add in 'new home' and the 's' after Dave. The extras were done by pencil and ruler and its sort of an Old Irish font. I finished it about 10 minutes ago, haven't sanded it yet, and am still unsure what finish to apply. Has anyone ever had a sudden realisation that your relationship to the person who you are doing the gift for has a definite effect on what you are willing to let go of. What I mean is there are several little things about this project that I'm not happy with, including a little breakthrough and a broken corner in the 'W' of new, but I said to myself 'sure it'll do'. Previously I have dumped or totally altered previous projects because of similar issue because they were for people who were important to me. Anyway, this is it. I am going to go with your previous suggestion of using a knotted rope to hang it.

Thanks Len and AK. What I was trying to get across was the new insert actually lifted the wood off the cast iron table, so it was just resting on the insert. There was no drag from swivelling on the table so I don't need to polish the table. Bob

Made a zero clearance insert for my Scheppach scroll saw. It turned out that the plywood I used was thicker than the original insert by about half a coat of paint. [i don't know how thick paint actually is but you get the idea]. I suddenly realised that I can swivel pieces on my table so much easier than previously because the wood is held up off the cast iron table. I used to polish my table previously but not recently. I will try to use thicker wood for future inserts.

I too love this job. As regards your problem with hanging them level, what about putting a hanger behind the tall bird and then put a panel pin, or similar under the left bird to hold it level. From my experience it is easier to 'prop up' an uneven job like this rather than try to hang them level. Bob

Here is my last rant. This was done with my old saw so I had changed nothing. What happened was I discovered [after 3 years of scrolling ] repositioning spray. Up to now I have used a spray glue on my patterns that was a heavier spray than you lot recomend. The heavier spray worked for me for 3 years, pattern stuck solid to the masking tape after about 5 minutes. I had always looked at repositional spray over the years and thought that I was not going to waste money when the glue I normally used was half the price. Last week I found repositional spray that was half the normal price so I bought it. Then I tried the difficult pattern attached and the paper pattern just lifted off the wood. I then taped the pattern to the wood with cellotape but it still lifted badly. I managed to complete the pattern by being careful but............................... I have never experienced lifting of patterns as bad as this and I know it would not have happened with my normal glue.

Meant to add in that the air blower being in the adjustable arm as opposed to the little blower in the short copper pipe makes this a doosie to use. [ just look up doosie in the dictionary, I don't care....................................]

here is what a Seppach saw looks like. It is still a fairly basic machine. But the extra features like the tensioner, the ability to go to a certain degree of bevel without having to check under the table all mean this is more user friendly. On top of that the ability to use a hand screw on the top clamp makes it so much easier to use.

When I joined this club I announced that I was going to get an Excalibur but on mature review it ended with me buying a German Seppach saw. The problem was the exchange rate between the Euro and Sterling. An Ex21 was working out at € 970 [$1050] and I just could not bring myself to waste that much. Then last week there was a conversation here about blade clamps getting worn out on an Excalibur saw and it suddenly struck me that no matter how much one spends, all saws have similar problems. So this one has a hand screw on the top clamp, and a spring loaded tensioner, such a joy not to have to reach for the allen key or reach to the back to screw in the tension adjuster. Also the bench tilts both directions by means of a knob with set angles that it clicks to. So I suddenly realised that I could put a bevel on a piece without having to bend down under the table to check what angle it was at. This is such a joy to work with that I've just driven into town and given my two old saws to the local Mens Shed with a promise to return next week and give them a demo of what a scroll saw does. When I've got them hooked I'll tell them about you lot. The attached is two pieces I did last night [ hanging on my drying rack ] and the right one shows where I went from bevel to no bevel without looking at the table setting ........................ just because I could.

Several months ago I asked for advice about a homemade frame for a plaque for my Daughter on her wedding. Two of you gave some advice but it still took another month before I decided on my own design. I did this ages ago but I could not show you till now because the wedding is on this Friday and I did not want my secret getting out through the web. The plaque is ply [don't know what type] that I stained then sanded back to the wood. Its backed by dark red felt. The frame is a different ply [and I still don't know which type] that is unstained. I stack cut the two sides and then cut the names and date in the top piece. I am a painter and decorator by trade, and I came to wood only lately. I have huge difficulty cutting neat joints. I find it impossible to do a straight cut [see the two corners] so I had to cover up the corners with a Claddagh symbol and a rose.

Nice one Dick, you wait all those years for the dots to join up [the team winning] and suddenly the Scroller fairy waves her wand and you get a buyer even without the team winning plus you get the bonus sale. Bob

Hello Helmut, Wonderful work. Just a few questions. I've seen these in the continental Christmas markets and I've also seen the documentaries about 'homemade' Christmas decorations and I've seen how those items are just a production line. Your candle holders are for thin candles [how did you make those holders] but have you tried the tealight candles and is the effect similar [as regards the heat turning the blades] seeing as tealight holders are easier to come across. How many levels down did your propeller shaft go down and how did you make sure the propeller would revolve as in did you use candle wax or similar to lubricate the propeller head? Bob

just read Jerry1939's post about his new 'C & C centre' [he's just showing off](yes I'm jealous) and he mentioned sanding blades to stop them slipping out of the top and bottom heads. I have this problem with the thinner blades and I've looked at my heads but my eyesight isn't good enough to see grooves worn into the metal. It brings on bad language sometimes when the blade slips several times during a small cut. I would have thought sanding them would make them slippier. Why not make horitzontal cuts into the ends of each blade with a hacksaw to make it harder to slip out. Anyone sand theirs? Bob

I have some patterns put aside for that moment when I run out of easier things to make and decide to make something needing wheels. But I have always thought of taking the easier way and buying a large diameter dowel and just slicing wheels of the required thickness. I love making things from scratch but trying to get several wheels [never mind 36] to rotate properly would drive me nuts. Bob

Thanks Dick and Kardar. perfect suggestions for what I need. AK, From what I remember hearing some time ago, the coping and fret blades I saw yesterday are for hand saws and are not designed for the heat generated by use in a scroll saw. My confusion came from seeing adds from reputable on line suppliers, where I would click on the Scroll saw blade buying page and seeing pictures of fret blades. [i think all coping saw blades have pins so only fret blades are pinless] Bob

Folks, just remembered something I meant to ask. I passed by my usual supplier today and spent a few minutes walking through just window shopping [as you do]. I noticed the area of the shop where the scroll saw blades normally are was this morning full of a selection of Fretsaw blades, and coping saw blades. Does anyone use fretsaw or coping saw blades in their scroll saw? I did not get any because I'm not short of blades yet. Bob

Folks, I've got to say a big thank you to Bobscroll. He must be spending most of his waking moments creating. His output is impressive. I did the attached, in cheap plywood, and what I intend to do is neatly trim it all around, stain it, and attach a dark red felt cloth to the rear. I also intend to make a base with a slot to prop it upright to allow it to stand on a shelf, and then make a scrolled plate on the front of the base showing the date of the wedding and the names of the guilty happy couple. What I'm looking for is suggestions. I could get it framed by a friend but we are in the business of making things out of wood so can you show me some suggested designs to make a frame or to make edge strips. Bob

Hello Gregory. I downloaded a book ages ago called 3D scroll saw techniques, patterns & techniques, by Henry Berns, its published by Fox books. Bob

'They look great, not sure what the meaning is of the saying but the scrolling is super. Jim Penguin' Well Jim. Tony is just pretending that Macroom has never produced a fool but the facts just don't stack up. Anyone who uses a Ferrari to bring his 4 kids to school is announcing to the world that Mensa never accepted his membership. Having said that, well done Tony. I'm from just a little bit up the road in Balbriggan and wondering where you source your wood? Bob

Hi folks, I had a flash of genius [or somethin ] yesterday and spotted similar figures on Pinterest so I chased up the link and lo and behold what I was looking for all along was 'wooden flower pot men'. Thanks for all the help above. Bob

AK. have you considered removing the steel helmet? I'm no expert [on anything] as you know well but it seems to me that having a tin lid can bring on migraines and halucinations.