savethebeer

Yesterday during a Google search I came across a link to a document dealing with all types of saws, Miter, Table, Circular, Band, Jig, Rotarazer, and most importantly Scroll. It also does Shop Vacs. It even has 31 easy woodworking plans for beginners. Copy and paste the following: https://perfectcutsandmiters.com Bob

Among the many many jobs I do in work is controlling this Aviation Fire Simulator, AKA The Hulk, as in Jolly Green Hulk. It has an elevated Control Room to oversee the whole area. For reasons that I can't explain this room has been called The Fuse Box for years but I decided to give it a more personal title, so I am going to hang the framed plaque in it. The top half is the wording that I tried to do in Dick's Umbra-normal. Computer screen looks great and then I press print. What gets printed is the font in the plaque. I have tried 3 different printers but have no luck so far. The second part is based on the first photo. I used GIMP, but used desaturate instead of curves, then artistic and phototcopy as normal. The frame I had spare is 16 inch by 13 inch, so I used two smaller pieces of 6mm BB. it has BLO as a finish.

withdrawn till I can get the photos to show Bob

Now I've just realised that the bob.docx is actually showing the umbra Bob

Thanks Dick and Brenda for starting this topic. I fell in love with that font last week and downloaded it. Then I made up a saying 'Bob's home for the bewildered' and it looked great. I sent it to myself in work (no printer of my own) but when I printed it out it came out in the font below. I thought it was still good enough so I made up the plaque below. (still not stained, framed or backed) I decided to write to you and just mention the issue about not being able to print off the font, and I think its because its not true type which is the tt you see behind the font name in windows. I was quite happy with the above situation and was not going to mention it, except just now, as well as the above photo I tried to upload the saved page showing the saying in Umbra, just so you could compare, when I realised the attachment and the copy and paste which I also tried, all showed the saying in normal font. Any ideas why the font did not print off in work, or why the attachment had changed to normal font, or why when I copied the Umbra font and pasted it into a second document, it actually pasted as Umbra. Sorry for all the confusing way I've described it' Bob Bob.docx

Hello AJ, Welcome to the village all the way from Ireland. Stick around, your among friends Bob

As i said earlier, just for practice. Now that I think that baskets might be on the gift lists for Christmas, I took a good look at my wood pile/stack. Very little thick enough for baskets so shopping trip necessary. Maybe some pics in December.

Thanks John. You replied just in time. I did the second cut at 3 degrees and it has improved the drop. Bob

Just done 2 baskets just to see how they worked. It was the same Steve Good pattern. First one was MDF and the second was from a pine seat so very soft wood. Neither ended up with enough of a drop at 4 degrees. I'm just about to redo the pine one having re-adjusted the blade to 5 degrees, by following the top cut line, meaning the bottom cut will be getting just a close shave which hopefully will give a bigger drop. The basket patterns that I have, all have the spiral cut starting at the outside and working inwards. Is there any issue if I started at the inside and worked outwards, having adjusted the blade to the other 5 degree angle? [its easier to do it than describe it] The reason I ask is I found my right fore arm muscles complaining a lot about the angle I was working at, I had to rest several times and I just want to see if me left arm would have as bad a problem with the constant rotating of the wood. Bob

I only use that knob with a newly fitted blade. It's to do with the blade not sitting in the bottom clamp exactly the same position that the previous blade did. The new blade could be 2mm too high or too low so the top arm needs adjusting.

More Great tips. I haven't used pinned for 2 saws but I kept the blades ( just cause they sat in a corner and didn't bother anyone) Now I can get my monies worth out of them again. Bob

Thanks for all the tips and tricks. it turns out that this issue was to do with the one blade for some reason. This particular blade had not slipped much before [many of my blades slip at first fitting, till I've fined tuned the height of the top arm, which usually takes one or two adjustments only]. Changed it for a different blade yesterday and no more slippage. The circular ridge is still very visible on my end of my set screw, and does not look worn. I will probably just crosswise sand the shank in future, but tightening the set screw works also. Bob

Doing some scrolling yesterday on 4mm BB using my ex 21. Got into more intricate sections so I changed to a smaller pre-used blade. Suddenly the blade was slipping from the top clamp far too often to be funny. Although I say pre-used, it is not bent or dull and when working it is perfectly fine. Step 1 was to sand the top shank of the blade. No improvement. Step 2 was to rotate the set screw [on the rear of the blade clamp] just in case grooves had been worn. The set screw was unmarked with damage but the blade slipped out just as much as before. Step 3 today [same piece] was to actually tighten the set screw, after tightening the thumb screw, and then flip the tension lever. Suddenly I'm in the sweet shop and flying along. [that is the candy store to most of you]. I'm very aware of the dangers of stripping the threads on the head so I'm being very gentle on the set screw, using a hex key with a T handle for leverage, but its the barest turn of the set screw up against the thumb screw that does the trick for me. When I've finished this piece and go back to using a slightly bigger blade I'll see if the slippage continues. So on the whole I will use this method again if required. Bob

Its another learning curve Brenda. Small changes needed. maybe a different blade to start with. Bob

Sorry folks, downloading the photos wrongly. I think I've sorted it now. Bob

Sorry Folks. I had sent my photos to my Yahoo account and then just copied and pasted into my post. I think I've sorted it now. Bob

I came across the photo below yesterday, (the photo within the photo) of the wooden educational toy, and I thought it would be great for my Grandaughter [in about 2 years time]. I still have my 'solid Pine' drawer fronts which are actually 98% pressed wood so that's what I made it out of. When I get it right I will use real wood but I'm not too happy with the result below. It consists of 5 rotating rings and 1 fixed ring. with 10 flat surfaces on each ring to show the numbers. I did not have a pattern, nor a drill bit the size of the dowel, nor a programme to print off the design, nor an idea of how to change dimensions from a screen to an actual piece of wood. I used pen, paper, ruler, plastic shape stencils and a brand new compass [a whole €4]. Only thing I did not use was a sextant, but that's only because I don't own a sextant. My problems were how to cut even sized flat surfaces on each ring, then how to get the centre hole for the dowel rod to sit in the exact centre of each ring The ring sizes were no problem courtesy of my new compass. Problem # 1 arose trying to get the centre cut exactly in the centre of each ring and # 2 was how get the 10 flat surfaces exactly the same on all 6 rings. I cut the first 2 flat surfaces on the scroll saw as I was cutting the 1st ring, then figured it might be easier to slice flat pieces with my band saw. Then I actually used my belt sander to flatten every other flat surface. My next version will be done only after I've made up a pattern. A related problem is the issue of my mask and my glasses. While I was using the sander the last few days I found dust blowing between the mask and the glasses at the bridge of my nose. I was getting dust straight into my eyes. I had to adjust both several times to get it right. This didn't happen previously so perhaps, just perhaps, I might have possibly put on a bit of weight.

That looks very nice, even more so when it is lit. What material is it cut from? Bob

I've had a productive December and all were very well received. I made 13 Schwibboggen, varying in size from 9 inch up to 20 inches. They were lit by LEDs bought in IKEA for €2. (Went back for more in December and price was now €20 for the same 12 leds). Another thing I started experimenting by painting my items in Acrylic. The above is BB on the front layer with white plastic as the back layer and is about 9 inches long. The above was done in winebox wood, and about 6 inches long. [its unfinished here] Then it was time to move on past Christmas so I decided to make a clock toy for my Grandaughter who is 2 years old on the 21st. I used drawer fronts of 'solid Pine' which of course turned out to be nothing of the sort, it was MDF with pine veneer. I changed to a Pegas # 7 reverse many weeks ago and found the going was so good that I made 3 clock toys. Even had time for a 50th Birthday present for a friend [he's a conductor is my band]

Thanks for that Steve and Wayne. I don't use any of those programmes anyway but I was not going to open any site or post with a strange address. Bob

I saw this site 2 weeks ago and then looked at it yesterday, got no adds, so I reckoned it was good to pass onto the villagers. I've just had another look and still no adds on my computer so I'm happy enough to look. There are lots of patterns available but I'm only going to look at the pdf ones. I haven't a clue what cdr, dxf, or svg extensions are so I'll stay clear of them. Bob

Came across this Russian scrolling site. https://vk.com

Thanks John. Classical, Elegant, together with Simple would be my go-to description of what I try to design. Mostly I just do 'simple'. I will try your top example with the red heart, only difference is I will try a positive design at the top of the plaque as opposed to a negative cutting into the plaque. Bob

I'm doing a presentation piece in Basswood for a friend who is expecting, but I also want to stick a presentation placque with names and date etc. on it. I want to do this in BB. What embellishments are doable for the edges of this plaque. Ones used in Calligraphy look brilliant but they would not translate from written pen into scrollwork. Bob

Hello Les. Also only on my first piece of live edge. My current piece of basswood is one inch thick and I'm sure the bark grew on this piece because it does not appear to have been stuck back on. I have about 50 slices of a branch where I cut the branch into very thin slices and have pencilled them in for Xmas tree hangers, but what I have noticed is the wood is shrinking as it dries out meaning the full circle of bark on each slice is separating from the wood in spots. I'm hoping the much thicker basswood wont have the same problem. Bob