jerry1939
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Everything posted by jerry1939
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And your shop is a mess also. Gee whiz fella!
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Wish I had never brought up the subject! jerry
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Darn near broke your budget, & you still have a lot of July left. Heck of a nice find Friend. jerry
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We have a True Value about 2 miles from us. Their website shows a 16 oz. can of 3M45 for $3.57. Just called & they have it in stock, so will go that route. As usual, there are countless people on this site that jump at the chance to help. THANKS ALL! jerry
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Temporary, only to hold the pattern for sawing. 77 has excellent holding power for that. Also tried Elmer's a couple of years ago and it did not stick well.
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For years I have been a die hard fan of 3M Super 77. Now the last 2 cans are giving me nozzle problems. Instead of putting out an even mist, they splatter, which shows blotches on the side to cut. Not enough to be a problem. When I turn the can over to clear the nozzle, the hole fills up. Can wipe it OK with a Kleenex. I save old, usable nozzles, but that doesn't help. Appears to be a product that has changed. Don't want to print on Avery labels, as a lot of patterns are oversize. Applying the pattern directly onto the wood wouldn't change the spraying problem. Looking for other spray on brands, or glue sticks that you folks like. Thanks in advance. jerry
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I don't like your shop Ray. Too darn neat. I could never find what need in a place like that. jerry
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This was my first ever scroll saw project, but it needs to be explained. I have worked with my hands most of my life. Built 2 motorhomes in my earlier days, as well as various machines and/or improvements. Took a woodworking class at a trade school & built an oak desk. Time & patience mean absolutely nothing to me. The clock was cut with a $69 Performax saw from Menards. Not visible is the pedestal that made the total height about 6 1/2'. It was given as a housewarming gift to our son in Des Moines, Iowa. To you nice people that hesitate to start what looks like a challenging/difficult piece, just remember it is always 1 hole & cut at a time. It doesn't make any difference if it takes 7 months (as this did), or you start 1 or more projects per day. The amount of sawdust is the same either way. jerry
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Couldn't have said it any better Ray.
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From the picture, it looks like the animals are scrolled. I looked on Amazon for a motor & found this, but there are others. To find others, Google buy 12v low speed motors. https://www.amazon.com/0-07A-3-5RPM-Torque-Electric-Motor/dp/B006W2HLSY jerry
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Mine was ordered from Grainger, but there are others. It has 2 tabs on the back for the electrical connections. You need to crimp on ends of your wire. I cut the wires from the foot switch & connected there. You can not reset it to zero. I keep a notebook by the blades & write down the Start time & End time. Steve Good told about an identical brand 1 1/2 or 2 yrs ago. https://www.grainger.com/category/hour-meters/meters-counters-and-plc/industrial-automation/industrial-controls-automation-and-machine-safety/electrical/ecatalog/N-qfv?okey=hour+meters&mkey=Hour+Meters+&refineSearchString=hour+meters&NLSCM=5&EndecaKeyword=hour+meters&searchRedirect=hour+meters&sst=subset&suggestConfigId=6
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One of our young'uns gave me an hour meter for Christmas. The "Fr. Adam" had a saw run time of 5.4 hours. The puzzle was 1.9 hours. The rest I didn't keep track of because I was hopping back & forth between projects. jerry
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Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I don't think it's possible to break apart an imported image. Can you move the portion you want onto the canvas & let as much waste stick out as possible & print from there? Experiment with plain paper. jerry
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Load 1 label & let the printer pull 7 sheets of plain paper to waste? jerry
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You can find a lot of help here, but it has never been updated from an older version. http://tavmjong.free.fr/INKSCAPE/MANUAL/html/ jerry
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My starter saw that I used for years was a Performax that Menards sold for $69 + change. It was identical to this saw. It appear that it is no longer available under the Performax brand. A very good starter saw. I would highly recommend it to a newbie to use to learn to saw, FIND OUT FOR YOURSELF IF YOU HAVE THE PATIENCE NEEDED, etc. The downside: At times somewhat difficult to maintain the blade 90 degrees to the table. Top & bottom clamps are attached to the up & down arms with a cap screw. At times a clamp will "twist" sideways, throwing the blade out of alignment. Do not let that scare you for a beginner saw. Click this link to my July 27 Bragging Rights posting of things I made with a $70 saw. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/topic/15271-some-of-my-stuff/
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I label the blade # on used plastic water bottles. Put a rubber band around the top & bottom. Put slightly used blade outside the bottle, under the rubber bands. When selecting a blade, I return that bottle upside down into a "spice rack" type holder, as a reminder as to what blade I'm using. jerry
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My saw is like yours. Have never pinned or blocked the upper arm. Am a top feeder. I lift the arm with my right hand, thread the blade into the hole with the left & lower the arm. To me, locking or blocking the arm up is an unnecessary time waster. Maybe OK for bottom feeders, but I would never go back. When I used to bottom feed, if there were a lot of tiny cutouts, I would sometimes thread the blade into a hole I had already cut. Would suggest you attempt to learn top feeding. It becomes automatic to you. After you have given it an honest effort to learn, if you don't like it, you can certainly go back to bottom feeding. jerry
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I'm supposed to tension the blade? jerry
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Not on the picture is the oak pedestal. Worked off & on for 7 months. Cut with a $69 Performax I bought from Menards. jerry
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Dewalt vs Delta. I am happy with my Delta. I would recommend buying whichever one matches the color of your shirt. Schematics are the same. jerry
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Aint Never Scrolled With a Chain Saw Before
jerry1939 replied to Rockytime's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Tell us how you know about alligators eating cadavers. Inquiring minds want to know. jerry -
I can only echo the admiration posted here already. Re; Gluing together 45s. I have learned to stick half the width of a 2" wide blue painters tape to the "outside" of each of the 4 sides. (Right side or left of each). Glue a bevel on a piece & stand that and the mate on a flat surface. Fold the other half of the tape to hold the 2 pieces together. IF there is room, after all sides are joined, place a narrower tape on the inside of each corner. Here is an example;
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I don't use many screws, but I keep a tube of lip balm in the workshop to coat the threads of the screw before screwing it in. It's like night & day different. Candle wax will do the same. jerry
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I have been gluing fretwork onto spray painted backers for a good number of years, without having one come loose. A good example would be Sue Mey type patterns. https://www.scrollsawartist.com/scroll-saw-patterns/religious-and-inspirational/#ty;pagination_contents;/scroll-saw-patterns/religious-and-inspirational/page-22/ My go to paint for this type is Rust-Oleum red metal primer. It's a dull red. If anyone tries this color, be aware that it scuffs easily. After spraying a clear coat on the finished piece it is fine. jerry
