jerry1939

When called, I will respond to "jerry" or Hey You.

I won't tattle on you. jerry

That didn't load properly. Try this: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/applications/core/interface/file/attachment.php?id=42546 Sorry. I can't get to open. I Googled Protractor, imported into inkscape. Made a protractor, laminated to & glued it on to 1/8" BB. Cut just outside the bottom line and sanded to the line. It was time well spent. jerry

When shipped from the factory. the left screw in each blade clamp is not adjusted properly. As the blade goes up & down, it cuts a wide path. With a tensioned blade mounted, push the blade up. I used a thin metal ruler clamped to the side of the table to just touch the blade. Now push the blade down a check the distance. You probably need to adjust the left screws to get the same clearance both up & down. LockTite on 1 of my screws doesn't hold, so I bought a longer screw & put a lock nut on it. The "protractor" under the table is a cruel manufacturer's joke. In order to get the zero centering pin to engage anywhere close to 90 degrees, I had to replace 1 of the protractor cap screws with a longer one and add washers between the protractor (angle gauge) & the bottom of the table. The easiest way to set the blade 90 degrees to the table is to take a block of wood (I used 1/2" X 2", on edge), & cut into it the thickness of the blade. Swing the blade around to the back of the blade. If it fits easily into the slot, you are good. If not, loosen the knob slightly and strike the edge of the table. Repeat as needed to get the perfect angle. Next I went out to end of my block, cut 1 slot, rounded the end to make it pretty and drilled a hole for hanging. I use it a lot, after each time the table has been tilted. If the block is held against the back of the blade and lines up perfectly, you are good to go. Lastly, go here: jerry

It doesn't need to be the same thread. That is a bolt & nut. Just buy both.

IF anyone opens up a Dewalt or Delta, the bolt just to the right of his finger is what I recommended above be replaced with stainless steel. jerry

I Googled this how do i open pdf on my computer Anything there you can use? I took an Inkscape pattern and "Saved As - PDF" but it does not show up on the desktop. If I save as "PNG", it puts an icon on the desktop that you can Copy & Paste to this site. jerry

I read once that the U.S. is the only country in the world that isn't using the metric system. The U.S. is also the only country in the world that put a man on the moon.

You will probably get a bunch of responses. Having done a lot of mechanical work in my life (& reading on this site that a lot of saws are shipped out with minimal grease), I started up my brand new 40-694 to make sure that it would run OK and took it apart and greased all the bearings. I shut down in the winter, so I grease it again every fall before quitting "the season". Lots of people will tell you not to void the warranty that way, but I trust my own experience more than any warranty. Everyone will have their own thoughts on the subject. If and when you ever do tear it apart, there is a connecting rod connected to the motor. On the other end of that rod is a bolt that takes the entire load of the saw. Take that bolt to a hardware store and get one like it but stainless steel. I had that bolt break in the middle. Stainless is a harder metal. Each year I also replace the nuts with the nylon inserts that are located inside of the case.

I usually put on a clamp or 2 to make sure it hasn't/won't move. Apply weight or more clamps.

I buy all my BB from them. Great service & fast. Unless it's for a backer, I order "Good Both Sides". For the amount of time spent on a cutting, I prefer 2 sides to chose from. Very little extra cost for each piece you are making.

Re; The visor band wandering around your head. I always wear a welders cap backwards. The visor behaves like a good little boy without any problems. Here is an example, but mine is a plain Carhart color. https://www.theisens.com/search/?keyword=welders cap&productavailability=Catalog Only,In Store and Online&mpp=24

You need to scroll down to find this one. I either use that or something very similar. Had it for years & like it. Looks like it would be lighter & more comfortable than the Magnipro. http://www.sloanswoodshop.com/misc_.htm

https://www.amazon.com/MagniPros-Illuminated-Headband-Magnifier-Detachable/dp/B071GWM9QN/ref=sr_1_4_a_it?ie=UTF8&qid=1520129047&sr=8-4&keywords=magnipros

MODERATION!! Get the glue about as thin as you can get it, otherwise it will squeeze out. I drop the cut piece on the wax paper, pick it up, rotate somewhat & drop it a second time. That way you catch any spot where you troweled the glue too thin.

I don't frame many. Give away all my work. We have 3 Goodwill stores to choose from. Easily find frames in excellent condition for a few dollars apiece. jerry

You stated that you already glued them together. My "Go To" method is to cut a horizontal oval in the backer before gluing them together. The oval allows for side to side adjustment to get it to hang straight. Also, that allows the piece to be flat against the wall, making it much less likely to move every time a door slams. Never liked, or saw, an advantage to any type of hanger.

Re; the 2nd paragraph above. If I get in trouble, I move the chair to the right and trick the brain into thinking that the "back" of the saw is actually to the left of center.

Not sure this applies to your project. I normally cut the fret piece out of 1/8". Use a 1/4" backer. Drill I & saw an oval, horizontal slot near the top for hanging. That allows finding a place in the slot where it hangs perfectly straight, flat against the wall. That's why I have never had the desire to use a saw tooth hanger. jerry

I needed a very deep throat for a few projects. Built my own, but with a 115v drill (I refuse to buy ANYTHING cordless). Plenty of you tube videos for ideas. 1. Make plenty of adjustment range to tilt the drill forward to back & side to side. Put a long wood dowel or metal rod in the drill to get your 90 degrees set to the table. 3. I mounted a ruler along side of the motor slide mount. Look at that for a depth stop. 2. Make the table plenty low. Add "shim" wood on top as needed. 4. You need ear protection when using it. The motor screams at you.

Would this lead you down a path? https://www.dodge.com

Re; your original posting. I have a 40-694 also. Have been working on mechanical things all my life, so it's second nature to me. Don't saw nearly as much a a lot of folks on the site. Am a Devout Believer in preventative maintenance. Take mine apart once a year for greasing. 1. Stand 2X4s around the work area to catch pieces that attempt to escape. 2. Do 1 unit at a time. i.e. redo front lower arms/blade holder. Next to the upper. Use a screwdriver to pry the arms loose from the blade holder & the arm assembly. It REALLY helps to use a channel lock pliers to "pull" the blade clamps back onto each arm. When you have it pulled together enough to see daylight in the bolt hole, use an awl and pry around from each side until you can get the bolt in. 3. Separate all bolts & nuts according to size & length. I keep the old nuts, but replace with new, this is especially important for anything internal. 4. Support the front part with wood blocks to maintain the approximate height. 5. On the motor connecting rod is a bolt that takes the entire load of the saw. Mine broke a few years ago. Go to a hardware store & buy a stainless steel replacement. Stainless is a harder metal. Same would apply to a Dewalt

If there is room, I put a dab of wood glue in the corners. Have already made the blanks slightly oversize to do that. With oversize wood, you don't need to be so perfect getting the pattern on.

As far as a stencil, I often find myself making extra cuts, ruining the stencil effect. Removing the outside of a "V" would be an example. I make the first cut of the V, back out & approach the other side straight. This makes a sharper point. If the cut out is large enough to be useful for something else, go for it. jerry

Looks outstanding. Glad to know that there is at least one "Jerry" with a fully functioning brain, capable of thinking outside of the box!!! jerry