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Bill WIlson

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Everything posted by Bill WIlson

  1. I've been scrolling for over 25 years, the last 6 or so in an EX-21. I haven't ever damaged the table or enlarged the blade hole on any of the 3 saws I've owned.
  2. I have an EX-21. I'm not sure what the dimensions are of the blade hole, but it can't be much more than perhaps 1/4" wide and less than an inch long. As for the dust extraction holes, I do not like them. Small bits of wood have a habit of getting hung up in them. I removed the dust collection apparatus from below the table, as it was more of a hassle than it was worth. I've considered filling the holes with Bondo or something similar but have never gotten around to it.
  3. Can you mount the plexiglass on the inside of the front piece?
  4. I don't think spirals vs regular flat blades has to be an either/or proposition. Blades are designed for specific applications. Spiral blades work very well for certain types of projects, in certain materials, because that is what they are designed for. If one doesn't make those kinds of projects, then there probably is no good reason to use spirals. I use both, but only use spirals where they are the best option. They are not my go to blade for general scroll saw work. I don't think they are well suited for a lot of things, but are perfect for some. As for the learning curve, I've known several very skilled and experienced scrollers who never got the hang of spirals and didn't use them. It doesn't always come naturally to everyone, but there isn't anything wrong with that. I maintain that, with some practice, any scroller can learn to use them, maybe not love them, but be capable of using them. It's up to the individual as to whether or not it's worth the effort.
  5. I have this one; I occasionally use it for sanding, but I don't find it all that ergonomically friendly to use for extended periods of time. My suggestion is try to figure out why you have to do so much edge and corner sanding. With practice and the right blade, edges can be smooth, right off the saw and need no sanding.
  6. My wife & I will celebrate our 45th anniversary this June. She rarely sets foot in my basement shop. I'd be afraid that if she hung out with me, she would start putting stuff away and cleaning up.
  7. My deadman footswitch is mounted to a piece of plywood and sits on the floor. I have a small block of 2x4 in front of it. My heel rests on the 2x4, allowing the natural weight of my foot to apply pressure to the switch. No fatigue at all. In fact, I have to sometimes move my foot a bit, when I'm not sawing, (like when changing blades, etc) so that I don't accidentally step on the switch and turn the saw on.
  8. Sweet!
  9. Back, a lifetime ago, when I was working in construction, you were able to get hollow core doors made from birch as well as luan. I have no idea what is available these days.
  10. Personally, I would be comfortable cutting that with an FDUR #1, which has become my go-to blade for a lot of patterns. I have a few Olson 2/0 blades, but rarely use them. Actually, for veining cuts, I think the 2/0 is almost too fine, as the line tends to be harder to see.
  11. I think the Flying Dutchman #2/0 reverse tooth blade has historically been difficult to control. I have no idea why, but I've heard complaints about the FD 2/0 for many years on all of the scrolling forums as well as from members of my scroll saw club. I've experienced it myself, probably 15 or more years ago. FD makes very good blades, except, it seems for the 2/0. When I need a 2/0, I go with Olson.
  12. I wonder how hard it would be to drill holes to allow the book to be put into a 3 ring binder, after the spine of the book was removed? I know it could be done, a few pages at a time, with a 3 ring hole punch, but it seems like it could be easy enough to do on a drill press, even sandwiched between 2 pieces of plywood.
  13. Read this out of context. Took me a minute to realize you didn't mean your own legs.
  14. John Nelson's Scroll Saw Workbook is an excellent resource beginners.
  15. I only know the Hawk by reputation, having never actually used one. I have an EX-21, a few years newer than the one you posted. Of the two, I would lean toward the EX, based on my acknowledged bias as well as the price and condition you describe. Also, in my opinion, the Excalibur design (from which the Dewalt, Seyco, King, Excelsior and Pegas were all derived) is very user friendly and the learning curve should be short.
  16. I answered solid wood, because, all things being equal, I prefer scrolling solid wood. However, I probably cut just as much BB ply as solid wood, because for many projects, it just works better.
  17. Correct. Over-tightening the clamp screws can also lead to spreading the clamp body apart, especially on Dewalt blade clamps. I think these kinds of supplemental knobs are great for those with reduced grip strength and/or other physical issues that make it difficult to properly tighten the clamp screws, but if they are being used simply to solve the problem of blades slipping out of the clamps, then they can be problematic.
  18. I have a couple of those mounted to the ceiling joists above my saw. One is aimed from the left and one from the right, eliminating shadows. It works really well for me. They are up and out of the way and don't vibrate with the saw.
  19. Any way to suspend the lights from the ceiling, instead of the saw arm?
  20. The innerweb seems kind of vague on this subject. Most sites just parrot the same press release info you get on Harbor Freight's website. Near as I can tell, HF contracts with several manufacturers, probably in China. Those same production lines likely make tools for other brands. They may well be independent subcontractors and not necessarily owned or operated by one of the major tool brands.
  21. There really is nothing sacred about the ratio. a 50/50 mix will help the BLO soak into the wood a bit, but so will 40/60 or 60/40. I typically use BLO full strength. I've gotten the results I wanted without thinning and without extra applications. Anyone should feel free to customize the blend however suits their needs.
  22. Absolutely, especially if you've already put the effort into re-sawing it. Like Stoney said, there may be some yield. Construction lumber can be prone to warping. Let it set a while in a dry environment, with adequate airflow around the pieces, and see if it stays flat. I probably wouldn't use it for delicate fretwork, but should get some decent stock for the simple animal shapes you're looking to cut.
  23. Stacking 3 layers of 1/4" material may present its own challenges. Personally, I would probably opt for 1/8" ply if I knew I wanted 3 pieces. but yes, stack cut multiples whenever feasible.
  24. Elegant in design and stunning in execution.
  25. I actually prefer the casters on my current chair to the previous one without. My chair gets used at the saw and at the bench, so being able to wheel around is a plus, for me.
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