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Bill WIlson

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Everything posted by Bill WIlson

  1. Bill WIlson
    Beautiful!
  2. Bill WIlson
    I think Minwax is still readily available. Really any furniture paste wax will do the trick. Just avoid car waxes that contain silicone.
  3. Bill WIlson
    Yes, most of what I use is the Zinsser Bulls Eye in both the liquid form and the spray can. I also have mixed my own with flakes dissolved in de-natured alcohol. I rarely brush it. It dries so fast that brushing can be a challenge. Typically I'll spray it using a cheap, gravity fed spray gun, connected to my Kobalt 26 gallon compressor. It's a lot easier than you might think.
  4. Bill WIlson
    Blinking? I never thought much about it. Although, now that you have brought it to my attention, I'm sure it will find a place in my consciousness. So thanks for that. As for dropping tiny bits on the floor, that happens all too often. The only difference is that I rarely find what I dropped. There must be some metaphysical connection with the clothes dryer and all of these lost bits & pieces have joined with the missing socks, in some Bermuda triangle like alternate existence.
  5. Bill WIlson
    I don't post a lot of pictures of stuff I've made, but here's a little something I recently cut for a friend who is retiring soon. It's a Steve Good pattern. Not the most technical thing I've ever made, but I'm pleased with how it turned out and am looking forward to my friend's reaction.
  6. Bill WIlson
    If you've been on this forum very much, you know that I rarely miss an opportunity to praise shellac as an excellent option for scrolled projects. It is my go-to finish for just about everything I scroll. I can't speak for Wichman, but I use shellac because it lends itself so easily to spraying and spraying is my preferred method of finishing fretwork. It dries very quickly. It's very easy to clean up. It sprays easily, even if you are a spraying novice. It leaves a nice, amber tint that enhances most wood grains. It doesn't have a lingering odor. It's easy to repair. It sticks to most anything. There are lots of options for color, from different grades of shellac flakes to mixing with dyes. I could go on, but you get the idea. It's a wonderful, traditional finish that I think if often overlooked by many hobbiests.
  7. Bill WIlson
    Yes. I waxed mine as soon as I got it and as needed, ever since. It's easy and only takes a few minutes. I don't have concerns with moisture. I just like the feel of the wood gliding over the waxed table on my scroll saw. More so than even on my other steel & cast iron topped tools (table saw, band saw, etc).
  8. Bill WIlson
    I mostly use BB ply for detailed projects where I need the advantages of strength and stability that it provides over solid wood, ie Christmas ornaments, portraits, some types of word art (overlay), etc. I use it in projects where I don't want to grain to compete with the cut image, such as backer boards. I also use it for other WW'ing projects; drawer bottoms, cabinet backs, shop jigs, templates, etc.
  9. Bill WIlson
    I don't, but I'm pretty well wedged in where I sit at my scroll saw, so movement is limited. My feet are typically resting on something other than the chair, so that helps keep me anchored. I also have anti-fatigue mats on the floor, so that lends some resistance to the chair wheels rolling involuntarily.
  10. Bill WIlson
    Very nicely done Marie! The design, execution, wood selection are all excellent! You demonstrated a lot of skill in building that box. You should be very proud.
  11. Bill WIlson
    I rescued my chair from the dumpster, at work. I added some padding and new cover to the seat. It swivels, has wheels, adjustable height and an adjustable back. I agree, the back doesn't really serve much purpose when scrolling, but I use my chair at the bench as well, so occasionally I do lean back. I wouldn't want arms on my shop chair, as they would get in the way. The space between my scroll saw and my bench is pretty tight, so being able to freely spin & move around is much more valuable to me than arm rests.
  12. Bill WIlson
    I've had one for some time and use both the spindles and the belt. I've been very happy with it and would recommend it. Whether or not it's better than the WEN or HF or if it will suit you and the projects you make, I can't say. I've found it to be very versatile and well made.
  13. Bill WIlson
    Congratulations. Is this your first scroll saw or just the first Dewalt? The Dewalt benefits greatly when combined with a couple aftermarket accessories. I would recommend connecting it to a footswitch, as Dewalts are notorious for flaky on/off switches. Dust gets inside and eventually your saw won't turn on. I had a footswitch on mine for many years and it eliminated the problem. A footswitch also makes any saw much easier to control. Also consider adding a lift mechanism. There are a couple versions available. Mine was the Jim Dandy Easy Lift Easy Lift System for DeWalt Scroll Saw DW788 – Jim Dandy Supplies. They are a very simple device that helps raise the top arm up when doing fretwork.
  14. Bill WIlson
    From the Hardwood Database, Black Cherry | The Wood Database (Hardwood) (wood-database.com) Rot Resistance: Heartwood is rated as being very durable and resistant to decay, though not typically used in exterior applications.
  15. Bill WIlson
    For cutting those holes, I would probably use a forstner bit. The best tool for a scroll saw project isn't always a scroll saw.
  16. Bill WIlson
    "I'm limited to 8-feet lengths right now because I only have a sedan to haul my purchases." Brings back memories. I used to haul 8' boards in my 1970 Chevelle, 40 years ago. An 8' 1x6 would just fit diagonally, from the dash to the rear deck.
  17. Bill WIlson
    I believe Rodney hit it on the head. Cutting thick/hard stock with small blades often leads to pushing sideways when trying to steer the blade around curves. This will result in a bowing of the blade that will cause the cut to be out of square. Your table may well be perfectly square, but pushing & bowing the blade sideways will cause the same type of problem that an out of square table would.
  18. Bill WIlson
    I have an Excalibur and never liked the plastic membrane/dust collection system. I removed the connection port as well as the membrane years ago. The only other thing I need to do to rid myself of the last remnant of the factory DC is to fill in the holes in the table. A fair amount of dust will fall through those holes (into my lap and onto the floor). Far more than what remains on the table top, IMHO.
  19. Bill WIlson
    That would make a fantastic restoration project!
  20. Bill WIlson
    There was a recent thread that discussed blade loading. Youi might find some helpful tips on blade loading there. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/49085-dw788-blade-clamps/#comment-515645
  21. Bill WIlson
    Do you top feed?
  22. Bill WIlson
    What problems are you having with the lower clamp? I don't have the Pegas clamps on my saw, but my understanding is that they employ a thumbscrew against setscrew style that is very similar to standard Dewalt clamps. The biggest difference is the Pegas clamp bodies themselves are made from machined aluminum, rather than the cast aluminum bodies original to the Dewalt. If I'm wrong about this, hopefully someone with the Pegas clamps will set me straight.
  23. Bill WIlson
    Incredible! I can't help but wonder what kind of mileage he's getting out of that thing.
  24. Bill WIlson
    You may have never used boiled linseed oil alone, but if you have used an oil based stain or varnish, wiping varnish, Danish oil, Watco oil, Tung oil etc then you have been exposed to the same danger. We take calculated risks all of the time. We routinely operate power tools that employ razor sharp blades, spinning at high speeds. We fill our lawnmowers, weed eaters, leaf blowers, etc with highly flammable gasoline. Heck, we even store gallons of it in our sheds and garages. Certain house hold cleaning products, if mixed together, will generate a toxic gas that can be fatal. My point is, we use these products in relative safety, because we are well aware of the dangers. BLO is no more dangerous than most of these products we use every day. The most important thing is to be aware of the risks. The steps required to mitigate those risks are simple and easy to follow.
  25. Bill WIlson
    All the above. I can lift the upper arm on my EX, but I still take an awl and open up the holes on the back side a little.
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