Bill WIlson

Presuming the Seyco's blade clamping and tensioning mechanism is the same as what is on my EX-21, there really isn't a whole lot that could be happening. If the Seyco had a tensioning mechanism like the Dewalt, for example, there are more potential mechanical reasons why tension could be slipping, but for a tensioning mechanism such as on the Excalibur, the options are limited. When the blade feels like it has slipped, do you notice slack in the blade when you re-clamp? Does the tension lever remain firmly in place? Is there any involuntary movement of the arm lifting knob at the rear of the saw? Blade slippage is the most likely culprit. You've owned the Seyco for 3 years, but have been scrolling for much longer. What kind of clamping method did you have on your previous saw(s)?

That right there is what makes it all worthwhile. Good job man. That is a beautiful piece of craftsmanship.

That was kinda the point I was trying to make. The saw has features that make it very user friendly (including the purchase price, compared to Hegner/Hawk), so indirectly it is the design that attracts them. My question was, once the cat is out of the bag, so to speak and owners realize the inherent weakness of the double parallel link design, is that enough to sway them to replace it with a Hegner or a Hawk? I'm only asking because I've recently had those thoughts myself. When my Excalibur broke down in November, I learned first hand what many others have already found out and has been written about on the scrolling forums for years. This design is prone to failure of the bearings. I purchased the EX to replace a Dewalt. Ironically it was because I thought my Dewalt was getting long in the tooth and I figured it was due for bearing problems. I never had any problems with it. I figured the EX was a more commercial grade version of the Dewalt. I liked how the Dewalt operated and the EX being very similar, there was no learning curve. I considered Hawk & Hegner at the time, but decided on the EX due to that familiarity. I'm wondering now if that was a good decision. I also wonder if any other owners of dual parallel link saws might have similar feelings.

Nice work. As for the features you dislike, consider all of them to be good learning opportunities. In most projects, you will find aspects you like and dislike. The cool thing is you can choose to modify any, if not all, of these features to be more to your liking. Next time you make something, don't worry too much about following the pattern and instructions to the letter. Consider the lessons you learned with these projects and apply them where appropriate to the next one. Often just choosing different materials makes all the difference.

The double parallel link design does incorporate a lot of pivot points that are subject to wear. Despite this, it appears to be the most dominant and popular design in scroll saws today. The question is, does this design offer other enough benefits to make it more attractive to users, such that they are willing to accept the ramifications of that wear? It would seem the answer is yes.

But most oil based products contain driers themselves, don't they? Pure tung oil being a notable exception.

I think the people who would most benefit from the info in that video are not necessarily those who make products to sell. As Kevin suggested, the cost benefit may not be there for the pro woodworker. OTOH, hobbiests who very likely have a shelf or cabinet full of various finishing products that they've accumulated over the years, may well save a little $$ by mixing their own, with stuff they already have vs buying another expensive can of finish and adding it to their collection. I don't think there is anything special about commercially available blends. Mixing your own doesn't require a degree in chemistry. It's been done by hobbiests for years. I think the biggest value of the video is to enlighten those who think they are getting something specific or special in their name brand blended finish to the fact that there is a lot of hype and mis-information out there, carefully wordsmithed as product names and descriptions. Woodworkers are always chasing the holy grail of that perfect finish and if a product isn't all it implies it is, then we should be aware of it. If one knows all of that and still chooses to buy the commercial blend, that's their right. If they perceive a benefit and are happy with the product, then no harm no foul.

I saw that video the other day. I remember reading similar comments on woodworking forums years ago. If I recall correctly either Bob Flexner or Jeff Jewitt (or both) describe it in their respective books on finishing, which may be where the critique originated.

Diluted white vinegar will dissolve shellac. I use it for cleaning up brushes, containers & such when applying shellac. I've never used it to strip a finish, so I don't know how well it will work. Put some shellac on a scrap piece of wood and give it a try before using it on a project.

Congratulations to all of you "old codgers" out there with decades of marital bliss in your life. This was our 45th Christmas together. I've never thought of a commemorative ornament. That's a neat idea. I'll keep that in mind.

I'm curious. Most plastic sheet material comes with a paper covering to protect it from scratches. I've always presumed that the adhesive in that paper acts in much the same way as masking or packing tape. Thoughts?

A very merry and blessed Christmas to all of our scrolling brethren & sistren.

My wife says the same thing. Well, almost the same. She leaves out the sole (soul?) part.

Not sure it's entirely age related. I've been forgetting to take pictures of my stuff for 30 years.

I made a bunch of those several years ago. It's tougher than it looks. Good job!

Let's just call it facial hair. I saw something similar at a craft fair a couple months ago. Even though I usually don't do a lot of Santa themed projects, I thought that one was unique and it struck my fancy, for some reason. I should've taken a picture. A couple weeks later, a bunch of long, rough sawn pine 1x6's appeared in the scrap pile at work. This project came to mind as the perfect use for them, so I salvaged them and brought them home. I couldn't remember exactly how the craft fair Santa's looked, so I searched Google images, presuming I would stumble onto a number of similar projects I could borrow from. Not so much. So, the design for these guys is mostly made up by me. I drew it out on a piece of paper, then made templates for all of the pieces out of 1/4" ply to make sure I liked the final proportions. This is what I came up with.

I've amassed a veritable army of pallet wood Santas. World domination is within my grasp.

Acrylic will melt back into the kerf, as you saw, so you want to keep your speed down to minimize heat. I cut a bunch of Christmas ornaments from 1/4" acrylic a few years ago. I can't recall for certain, but I think I used a skip tooth blade.

I've never dipped anything in diluted shellac. I apply it with a spray gun and it's thin enough that I can use it straight out of the can. For dipping, I think I've seen a 50/50 ratio mentioned, but I'm not certain.

Not Denny, but I'll add my $.02. Shellac is most commonly diluted with de-natured alcohol. This can be purchased at any paint store. Also known as camp stove fuel. Some might say that you can use isopropyl alcohol, but I've read recommendations not to, so I always use de-natured alcohol.

Yes. I made sure to slather them well.

Nothing obvious. I presume it's a bad bearing at one of the pivot points, but no idea which one.

Good news! The EX-21 is back to being operational and purring like a kitten again. I received the drive link assembly last night and spent a couple hours this afternoon installing it. Even though I'm not the greatest at taking things apart and getting them back together, this went pretty smoothly. I'm back in business and have been sawing for the past half hour so. I'm relieved, to say the least. I even called Ray to let him know & thank him again for his help. Well, back to the saw. Let's call this case closed.

Not sure if you've seen this, but there may some info in this thread that is helpful. https://www.scrollsawvillage.com/forums/topic/51378-ex-21-help-needed-urgent/

I stumbled upon this YT review of some Temu tools. It includes the router mentioned in the OP. I know nothing about Temu and never watched this particular reviewer before, but I think I'd pass. Anything that spins a sharp bit at speeds approaching 30,000 RPM, I do not want to take any chances with. Of course, your mileage may vary. Just be careful.