Bill WIlson

Thanks John. I know of one fellow in our scrollsaw club that has an Eclipse. I'll pass this information along to him at the next meeting.

I don't really consider BLO to be a "finish" in the general context that most folks use the term. It has practically no protective qualities at all. It contains drying additives, so it's marginally better than mineral oil, in that it doesn't stay tacky. It does have it's place though. I like to use BLO as a colorant, grain enhancer and/or component of a home brew style Danish oil. I don't use it as a stand-alone finish, if I want/need any protective qualities or the appearance of a sheen. I do like how it makes the grain pop, especially on darker woods like walnut and cherry. If I'm going to use a water borne finish or perhaps lacquer as a topcoat, I'll often use BLO to bring out the grain & color first. Then I'll seal it with a light coat of de-waxed shellac before topcoating.

Just my personal opinion, but if I had a Dewalt (and I did), I doubt I would want to spend more than 2 minutes trying to cut on a Harbor Freight saw. Yea, it's a lot heavier, but the enjoyment and relaxation factor should compensate.

Ron, most hand tool devotees prefer either vintage hand planes or the modern offerings from Lee Valley or Lie-Nielson. Vintage Stanley Sweetheart series planes are generally highly regarded and collectible. I don't really know much about the new ones. That said, I can't say that the new Stanley planes won't serve your purpose. Much will depend on how you intend to use them. Regardless of whether one has a 100 year old Stanley or a brand new Lie-Nielson, the plane needs to be tuned and sharpened properly. Even brand new planes won't perform up to their maximum capabilities, right out of the box. This is critical and requires something of a commitment in time and effort on the part of the user. It's time well spent though and you will learn a lot about how planes are made and how they work. That's just as important as the plane itself.

New or vintage?

You'll probably find that most scrollers will use either Flying Dutchman or Olson brand blades. There are other brands out there and I imagine each have their proponents, but I have no personal experience with any of them, except a little with PS Wood blades. That said, I prefer certain blades from FD and others from Olson, so which blades you select won't necessarily all be from the same brand. It takes a little time and patience, but it pays to try different blades from different manufacturers for different applications. For example, I like FD spirals more than Olson. For really fine detailed fretwork, I prefer Olson 2/0 reverse over an FD equivalent. For routine fretwork, I've long preferred the Olson MS blades, but am now trying some FDUR sizes and so far I like them. Even after 20+ years of scrolling, I'm still trying and learning about different blades.

Looks like I'll be taking the membrane off of mine. Thanks guys! Randy - the coupling I'm using to attach the extension hose from my shop vac has holes drilled in it, because I had a similar problem when connected to my random orbit sander. Even with that controlled leak, I still don't like the amount of back pressure when connected to the saw.

I upgraded to an EX-21 earlier this year. I've used it a few times since then and am still getting used to it. One thing I'm not sure I like about it, is the dust collection port they designed into the table. Any other EX users have one with the DC port? What are your impressions? Thanks

Started scrolling over 20 years ago. When my kids were elementary school age, we struggled every year to find affordable and appropriate gifts for all of the school teachers, bus drivers, Sunday School, music and dance instructors they had. Seemed like we were buying more gifts for teachers than family. Anyway, I had some background in carpentry and other types of woodworking and the wife & I liked to browse local craft shows, so I figured I could make something. Christmas ornaments were something that appealed to me, so I tried my hand at making some. I didn't have a scroll saw at the time, so for the first couple of years, my creations were limited to those of fairly simple design and execution. I decided to get a scroll saw to allow me to do finer detail on smaller pieces of wood. That started the learning curve and led to a search for pattern books, but I hadn't discovered the internet resources yet. About 10 years ago, I found a local scroll saw club and have been affiliated with them ever since. By that time, I had already learned most of the skills and many of the "tricks" needed, by trial & error. However, being part of the club helped open up the world of internet resources for patterns and supplies, plus we always like to share ideas and techniques, so there are always a few more tricks and tips that these old dogs can learn. After 20+ years of scrolling, I've made thousands of Christmas ornaments, but I've made a lot of other stuff as well. It's been a great hobby, with lots of diversity of projects and styles to keep the interest up.

I would probably look to use it as a decorative backer of some type, rather than cut fretwork into it. My fear would be that fretwork, cut into all of the radial cross grain in that end cut, might not hold up well.

Hi Rolf, nice to see you over here. You have a lot to offer, too much for just one forum.

Danny - A Dremel router would not be my first choice for learning proper router technique. Dremels are great and versatile tools, but IMHO they are way too underpowered and the available selection of bits is very limited. To recommend a better choice, it would help to know what you want to do with it. I have several routers and most are devoted to specific tasks. The compact routers like the Dewalt 611 are a nice compromise for hand held work. They are small enough to be easy to use, but have enough power to get basic jobs done. Table routers benefit from more power and some additional features. I don't suspect that is where you are going to start, but table routers can be a whole separate topic unto itself. For maximum flexibility, I like the multi-base kits that include fixed and plunge bases using the same motor. I have a Dewalt 3 base kit, but there are several other good brands out there. These are typically full size, 2.25 hp routers, but I think a plunge base is available for the Dewalt 611. Bosch may offer one as well, for their compact router. So in summary, if you intend to use the router for simple hand held tasks, I would suggest a compact router (1hp - 1.25hp) with both the fixed and plunge bases. That should handle most basic routing tasks. The next step up is a 2.25hp router with multiple bases, which can also be used in a table. Beyond that, you are getting into the big boys (3 - 3.5hp) for serious, production type work and/or table use. There are several reputable brands. Bosch, Milwaukee, Dewalt, Porter-Cable, Makita, Hitachi etc all make good routers. They all have slightly different features, but any should serve you well. Budget for a good one. I'm not a fan of cheap, discount routers. And also budget for good bits. They can make all the difference in the quality of the work produced. Good luck, be safe and have fun making sawdust!

When using reverse tooth blades for compound cutting, the dust can tend to clog up in the kerf, generating heat and shortening blade life. Skip tooth blades generally work a little better as they clear the sawdust from the kerf more effectively than reverse tooth blades.

Not too many woods I don't like to cut, save for those that are extremely hard, smell bad or cause a reaction. One of my favorites is sassafras. The smell is awesome.

If you don't like paint, but want to be able to get the variety of colors, maybe dye's could be an alternative. I've just recently been experimenting with fabric dyes, because they are readily available and cheap. So far I like what I've been seeing. Some woods take the dye better than others, but it leaves the wood grain show through, which I like. Also, I haven't had any problems with glue adhering to dyed wood. I have had problems with painted wood.

What tools do you have access to? Breaking down sheet goods can be done several different ways, depending on conditions and tools available. The cheapest is a circular saw or a jig saw, with a home made, straight edge guide. If you have a table saw or a band saw, the set up for repetitive cuts is simpler and the accuracy should be more consistent, but it takes up a lot of room for infeed & outfeed space, plus you may need an extra pair of hands. I typically break my full sheets down, out in the driveway. I put several 2x4's or other scrap lumber of sufficient length, across saw horses and use a circular saw to get them close. If I'm fussy about the final dimensions, then I cut the smaller pieces to precise size on my table saw.

Good point Charley. I doubt I would enlarge my table surface, but others might have different ideas. Do you do anything to the BB plywood to smooth up the surface and how does it wear? I like a pretty slick table and if I were to use BB ply, I would likely apply a finish and then paste wax. Or one could glue the Formica to the BB ply to get the best of both worlds.

My new EX-21 has holes drilled around the blade entry hole that are for dust collection. They work OK for that purpose, but I find that small cut-outs fall into them and some get caught, which can hang up your cutting. The concept may be good, but I don't really like the execution on the EX. It's my only complaint with the saw. I'm considering a table overlay. I won't use things like playing cards because like was already mentioned, it just provides an edge for the wood to catch as it's being cut. Whatever I use, it needs to be as thin as possible and also provide a smooth, waxable and durable surface. I'm thinking a piece of Formica would be ideal for me.

The reason that 12' is the recommended minimum length of stock to run through a planer is that shorter pieces may not contact both rollers inside the machine and there is risk that the piece may come flying back out of the planer or get jammed up inside. There are work arounds for this, but for what you are trying to do, I wouldn't recommend them. It is possible to flatten a cupped/warped board with a planer alone. However, it works best when you are starting out with 5/4 rough sawn stock. I've successfully salvaged warped 3/4" thick stock, but I'm removing material to flatten it and I don't end up with 3/4" thick stock when I'm done. If I'm lucky, I may get 1/2" out of it. Anything in the 1/2" to 1/4" range, you likely don't have enough material to flatten it, regardless of the tool or method used.

Be sure to let us know if you get any funny looks when you show up at the check-out with a dozen bottles of nail polish.

Wayne, I think customers willing to spend the kind of money that these advanced clocks are worth, are very rare. Our club put on a display at a local craft show about 10 years ago. We weren't selling items, just displaying our work, doing demonstrations and promoting the club. Naturally, folks came up asking to buy things. In those days, our club sort of specialized in these big clocks and there were several on display. One lady had her eye on one and asked the price of it. She was told it wasn't for sale, but she was insistent and just didn't want to take no for an answer. Finally the gentleman who made the clock told the lady he would sell it for a dollar a hole. She actually started to count the holes, but then very quickly realized where that was leading and gave up. We all still laugh about that story today, but we also kind of agree that in reality, it's not all that far off of what a fair price would be. Most of the guys I know that have made these clocks end up either keeping them, giving them away to family/friends or donating them for some sort of fundraising effort.

Jerry brings up an excellent point and one that tends to get lost when people start thinking about doing large, complex projects like this. "You take one step at a time. Remember your basics. Cut one piece and do it well. If you "hurry it up" with each piece, the finished product will "look like you hurried it up." If you enjoy scrolling, by all means go for it. My attitude is that patience has nothing to do with it. I feel that there is no difference in making clock parts each day, or sawing unrelated things each day. The sawdust looks the same." They see the enormity of the finished project, the sheer size, the number of cuts, and lose that perspective. Jerry's advice is spot on! The biggest challenge I see with building the larger clocks is the assembly. Most patterns have pretty good instructions, but getting all the pieces to fit properly, and assembling them in the correct order takes a little time and an ability to conceptualize the process in your head, before you start gluing stuff together. On the larger projects I've done, it paid to dry fit everything, at every stage of the build. Occasionally you will find anomalies in patterns or perhaps a cut isn't perfect that will affect the way things go together. By dry fitting everything first, you find any problems and if you do it several times, you are less likely to make a mistake when you make it permanent.

Yes, I've done it and gotten good results. Many woodworkers already have these ingredients in their finishing supplies. If so, it can be more convenient and a bit cheaper to mix your own rather than to go out and buy a separate product. If you don't have these supplies already on hand, then there probably isn't much benefit to going out to buy them vs just buying the Danish oil. You do have some control over the ratio, which may be considered an advantage. You can add more poly/varnish to make the blend more protective. You can add more oil to make the finish look and act more like a hand rubbed finish. More thinner makes it go on easier, but will require more applications. There's nothing really mystical about commercial Danish oils or the home made blend. It's just another alternative that can give the hobbiest woodworker a little more flexibility. And now for the requisite safety PSA. If you use rags or paper towels to apply any oil finish, whether a commercial product or your own mixture, use caution when disposing of the rags. Spontaneous combustion is a possibility if oil soaked rags are not handled and disposed of properly. The simplest method is to lay them out flat to dry, on a noncombustible surface. This is best done outdoors. You can also soak them in a bucket of water. There are other methods, but these are the simplest. Whatever you do, do not ball them up and leave them lay about or throw them in a garbage can while they are still wet. I take these same precautions with rags used to apply oil based stains.

My condolences to Mike's family. Truly a great loss for them as well as the entire scrolling community. RIP Flying Dutchman.

It's kinda funny. Please allow me to reminisce a bit. When I first started scrolling, over 20 years ago, I had no idea the kinds of projects & patterns that were available. I found a couple Patrick Spielman pattern books in the local bookstore and I did primarily Christmas ornaments and a few plaques. About 11 years ago I joined a scrollsaw club. Just about all the guys in the club at the time, seemed to be working on these great clock patterns. They would bring them to the meetings for the brag table and I was profoundly impressed and somewhat intimidated. The founder of the club had done over 200 different ones and had many of them on display in his house. I'll tell you what, that was an impressive display. I thought that was what scrolling was all about and resolved to someday build one of these masterpieces. Then I discovered the scrolling sites on the internet and a whole different world of scrolling was revealed and it keeps evolving. Our club has grown and only a few of those original members are still with us. Almost no one cuts these big clock patterns anymore. Most of the newer members have never tried it. These days our brag table is comprised of other types of scrolling, like portraits, word art, intarsia, compound cutting, etc. In a way it's great, because the variety of projects means that there is something for every interest and every skill level, but in a way I think it's sad that the interest in these great old clock patterns has faded. We've talked about it at our meetings several times and I still resolve to build one (or more) someday. I've made several smaller fretwork clocks, but have not yet tackled anything like the Apostles Clock, the Dome Clock, the Shopiere Clock or the Chimes of Normandy Clock. Perhaps when I'm retired and have more free time. Displaying one of these masterpieces is problematic. Most folks just don't have the room for something like this and it's certainly hard to child proof them. That has probably contributed to the perceived decline in their popularity. But they are an important part of the history and heritage of scrolling and I'm glad to see someone else interested in taking on the challenge. Please keep us posted on your progress. I'm anxious to see how it goes. Good luck! Oh and thanks for indulging my ruminations.