Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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Nice job!
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Very nicely done. I once made a custom inlay on a box that the customer rejected. I sold it at the next weeks sale very easily.
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Yes many of the images I inlay I use a pattern/template and a pencil also to apply the outline of the image.
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To line or not to line is the question.
Jim Finn replied to Phantom Scroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Only if it is to be used with potpourri, would I leave it unlined. Beautiful box. -
I see it was made in Milwaukee. I grew up near there and familiar with "Osters" the manufacturing company. I used a saw like this in shop class in the early fifties. We called it a Jig saw. I think this was before hand held "jig saws" became available. I would not buy this saw either. Blades are quite thick.
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I have made and sold a lot of simple toys for toddlers. Poplar works well, as does pine. I have no plans I just "dreamed them up." Here are some of them:
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I usually make many things at a time. Sometimes as much as twenty. More often ten. I switch from one project to the next as the glue or finish is drying on the first.
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There are many many wood working clubs that make toys for children's hospitals. If you do a search for some and email them I am sure you will get replies. I am the president of a small club here in Texas (Lubbock woodworkers club) that makes and gives out 4000-5000 toys every year to local hospitals and The Salvation Army.
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- holiday donation projects
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Work in Progress - A Case for Flat Blades
Jim Finn replied to Scrappile's topic in General Scroll Sawing
This is exactly why I do not use spiral blades. "...now I am in the process of filing/sanding all the cuts to remove the spiral saw marks. It is going to take me a long time! I have about 1/3 of the top piece done..". -
Thanks. It finally opened for me. I was interested to see if they talked about "drift' while re-sawing. i do not ever get any "drift" since I started using a 1/2" Supercut carbide blade with my, non adjustable, re-saw fence. The blade will eventually dull but still cuts straight.
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OK SO I tried again: Forced to sign in, then tried to go to videos, and all I could get is a turning video. I am not a turner. How do I get to the one about re-sawing?
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OK I selected the last link you posted and it got me to the site but I do not know how to read/view the info on re-sawing that should be there. How do I do that?
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First Time...Will not be the last!
Jim Finn replied to Scrolling Steve's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Same here... -
A sling shot? Hmmm. I would like to see that. Do you have any photos or patterns to share?
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I also have a self funding hobby. I have great success selling at a local farmers market and at three local festivals.
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as usual.....boxes. I just finished some walking sticks and I am also working on making some 28" three dimensional stars of metal.
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Repeat orders are great. I like your method of manufacture. I am working on trying to set up a box making agreement with a local coin dealer myself.
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A test piece is the way to find out the degree required. I use all 3/8" thickness wood with a #5 or #7 blade and tilt my table on my saw about 2.2°. I do inlay and always hot glue the wood to be inlaid on the bottom and cut both at once keeping the image to the right of my blade with the right side of the table tilted up the required angle. Your saw , blades and wood thickness may require different tilt angle.
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I took the left over pieces to that box and glued them back to back to make a 3" wooden nickle. Gave it to a friend.
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Yes that one "bridge" did the trick. I make boxes, with inlays, most every day but I do not post them because I have posted them in the past. I make as may as 25 of one pattern to sell during the summer..I do not want to bore folks with repeated posts. I usually only post new designs, like these. Some items I sell before taking photos. Especially custom orders.
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Thank you for the kind words folks. Yes, after cutting the outline of the leaf etc. I cut the interior lines with my scroll saw set back to 90 ° After gluing the inlay in place, I fill in these interior cuts with a mixture of white glue and sanding powder, cedar in this case, applied using a credit card used as a squeegee. I did the Coyote as a special order, last year, and liked it so I made this one to try to sell this summer at the farmers market I attend.
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I recently made these three boxes. Two are for coin collections and are made of cedar box with maple inlay. The other box is cedar box with coyote made of walnut, standing on a mahogany rock in front of a curly maple moon.
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I agree lettering is not easy. One thing I do that helps me is I usually use a script font. Not nearly as demanding as block lettered font is to cut.
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Any scroll saw will cut 1 1/2" material. IF you plan on doing a lot of that kind of cutting like I do I suggest a heavy duty saw like a Hegner. Cheaper saws like DeWalt will not hold up to a lot of thick wood cutting.
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I do a LOT planning with my DeWalt 735 to make 3/8" stock. (cedar and maple). I buy rough lumber and re-saw about 700 board feet a year, and plane to the 3/8" thickness required. I had a Royobi planer that worked very well but the chip collection was an issue so I bought the DeWalt.
