Jim Finn
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Everything posted by Jim Finn
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I found a 15" Jet scroll saw that was made in 1988 on Craig's list for $15. I use this saw more than my others. I also bought a 25" Hegner that was made in 1986 that I use for larger projects. Paid $600 for that one. Creig's List is a good place to look.
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When I have laminated wood, like plywood, my scroll saw blades dull quickly also. I blame it on the glue.
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Great find! I picked up an old (1988) Jet 15" scroll saw for $15 on creigs list here in town. No parts available for it from Jet but I replaced some of the parts and clamps with Hegner stuff. I use this saw for 100% of my inlay work. My Hegners are back up saws!
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I did the exact same thing on my DeWalt and then sold it.
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I am a wood worker that only makes artsy/crafty stuff. No cabinets. I started as a wood carver thirty years ago, but no longer do that.
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I made four others just like this and sold one today at a yearly craft sale here. Along with 17 boxes and two pieces of intarsia and assorted other items.
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I have a lathe but did not use it for this project. I glued three 1" x 38" walnut strips together and rounded them off with a round over bit on my router table. I made the center strip longer than the outer ones and did not round it off. This center piece then is glued in place in the handle/gun. Makes for a strong ninety degree joint.
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Yes it is usable. I made the whole thing, including the dowel and the gun/handle of three 3/8" pieces of walnut. On the dowel part I left the center strip of wood extend past the others long enough to go to the rear of the gun. I then inlay the maple into the outside pieces of the gun part. The center 3/8" board of the gun I place at 90 degrees to the outsides to give the needed strength. The center strip of the dowel is glued in place inside the two outside pieces of the gun/handle atop the the cross grain center pieces of the gun.
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///////////I made this walking cane for a retired police officer. Walnut with Maple inlay in handle.
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I changed the link...Try that.
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I re-saw a lot of wood to 3/8" thickness from 1" cedar and maple boards. Some oak also. I find that in order to keep the cut straight, while re-sawing the blade needs to be very sharp. I use.... http://www.supercutbandsaw.com/contactus.html . I get 1/2" carbide re-saw blades from them that work the best for me. Just a little more expensive than "woodslicer" blades, but last a lot longer. I use a re-saw fence on my 14" GO555 saw..
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.....................................Here is one I dreamed up. Made and sold about twenty of these.
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I have attempted to solve this problem in various ways. Aquarium pump did not have enough air flow to work for me. Compressed air from my air compressor, shop vac just behind the blade, this worked but killed three shop vacs. I now have a squirrel cage type fan blowing across the saw from my right just behind me. This works best for me. It also keeps me cool in my shop.
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Look in "word" many fonts there.
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Another Power Tool 4 ME.........YES!!!
Jim Finn replied to smitty0312's topic in General Scroll Sawing
That is a nice little jointer. I had one for years until I finally wore it out. -
I have a 14" Grizzly (GO555) and use it mostly for re-sawing. I cut 8" maple, cedar and some oak. I use a 5/8" carbide blade from Grizzly and it works best for me. Woodslicer blades also cut great but dull a lot quicker than does the carbide blade.
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So yours lasted 2 1/2 years. Mine lasted 20 months so you have done well, so far.
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I just set up a gallery of my own. http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/gallery/album/350-jims-woodworks/
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It makes the whole roll top desk. Ahem.... <grin>
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This seems like a good idea to me. I have hundreds of items to display and it takes me 2 1/2 hours to set it up. an hour to get to the sale, an hour home, and about one hour to tear the display down and about 1/2 hour to put in storage at home. I have a large garage well located in a city of 230,000 that I could set up my display and leave it there for a month if I choose. A little creigs list advertising just before Christmas may work for me this year. Hmmmm... something to consider at least. Thanks for this idea.
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The trick is: Sell enough of your projects to pay for new equipment. Like I did to get this wonderful new tool.
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Nice box. Good idea.
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I started out wood working making fireplace bellows, just because it was a challenge for me. I made another and another to refine the end product and my method of making it. I gave away about twenty-five of them and sold about ten. I still like making them and now have about ten in stock. I learned that I have two choices when I make something. Sell it or burn it. Now I only make items that I think will sell and that I enjoy making. I sell 100% of what I make except for a few items my wife kept for in our house. I make and sell well over four hundreds items a year and about that many that I give away. (Toys) So I no longer make just what I like. I only make what I like to make and will sell.
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When I was putting images like this on wood I printed out whatever I wanted on tissue paper and applied the paper and print to the wood with lacquer. (Decoupage) Like these:
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No, not really... I cut the "S" and the "Y" separate, in this case, and the other letters in two groups. The inside of the "e" and the "a" I cut as I come to them. I make a cut through the maple inlay to get to the inside and then after cutting out the center cedar, back out the same cut to then continue on to cut the outside of the letter. Kinda' hard to explain and tricky to figure out but now, after doing it many times, I can do it easily. You can see how I did this "a" in another inlay. The secret is to keep the white, inlay part of the letter to the right side of your blade with the white, maple wood on the bottom and the saw table tilted down on the left.
