Gonzo

AS I was cutting a rather delicate piece, ( depending on what one might consider to be a little delicate ), I realized that what has become routine through trial and error, just might be of someone who had not come across the downfall of this task. So I decided to share what I have found has helped me. First let me explain one thing. The pattern I am cutting is a Steve Good free pattern on his web site, (www.scollsawworkshop.blodspot.com). Steve suggests using 3/4 inch material for this project. I believe the thickness suggested is to help support the delicate cuts and give it added strength so anyone can cut it successfully. I, however, do not enjoy cutting this kind of a pattern using that thick of wood because I feel it takes away the delicacy and beauty of the piece. I much prefer to cut this kind of a pattern with 1/8th inch material to bring out the beauty of the piece. So what I do to help combat the delicate parts from breaking off, is to first of all stack cut it in 2 or three layers. I still us only 1/8 inch stock. How I stack cut it to make the number of blanks to the same size, then I use blue painters tape to tape them together, after sanding the surfaces and cleaning them of well. I put the tape over the board I am going to put the pattern on. To hold the boards together I start by overlapping the tape on the far end of my blank about 2 inches and crease the closer end at the edge of the blank and tear it even with the blank. Then I hold the end that has the overlapped tape tightly together and fold over the 2 inch piece of the tape to the back of the second blank. I then rotate the board blanks so the second run of painters tape is now overlapping the end where the first was torn off even and this gives me an overlap on each end of my material. I continue to tape it by rotating and overlapping each piece of tape so that now I have ever other run of tape overlapping on opposite ends of my blank until the face of the blank is completely covered and ready for the pattern to be glued onto it. But, before I glue on the pattern, I also cut two strips of painter's tape approximately the length of the blanks and put it on the edge of the blank so that 1/2 of the width of the tape is overlapping the edges not already covered by the tape. Holding the edges of the blanks tightly together I crease the tape over the edge and onto the back side of the second blank. I use 2 1/2 inch painter's tape so that I have less passes and the coverage of each run of tape is covering as much as possible.
Now the part that helps to not break the extended delicate parts from breaking while cutting it. ........ If one starts on the outside edge of the blank and does the final cutting from there, two things happen that is not good.  ONE, as you cut away the outside edges of the pattern in this manner, you are losing the holding together of the stacked pieces and allowing more opportunity for the stacked pieces to move out of line as you finish the cutting. Two, you are allowing the now most delicate part to be unsupported and more venerable to accidental breakage. So, here is my hint for that....TIP 1 PHOTO .drill a starting hole on the interior of the outside to the outer part of the pattern so that you are leaving the painter's tape in it's hold down capacity and not allowing the chance for the second layer to move and possibly screw up the cut on that layer.  TIP 2 PHOTO Also by doing it in this manner, the blank is continuing to support the entire pattern as you cut the outside of the pattern and it is less likely to break. TIP 3 PHOTO  When you have finished cutting the outside of the pattern you can just life off the outer part and discard it.
I have posted some photos of an example of what I am trying to suggest to you so you can visualize what I am trying to say. If anything is not clear, just ask and I will try to show you exactly what I am talking about with a photo of it.
I hope this helps some newbies and helps them not to break cuttings as they try a more delicate cut.
Dick
heppnerguy 

Good looking squirrel Kevin. And when your neighbor asks about their lounge chairs, your secret is safe with me. Wink wink. 

All it is is a thicker piece of wood that you can attach the thin veneer to as you plane it down. If you do not do that the thin wood would have tearout and probably be destroyed. You can call it a planer sled too if you would like. I do this all the time when using my tablesaw too. If I am cutting small pieces or thin pieces I will double stick tape them to a piece of 1/4" plywood or sometimes cheap wood paneling strips. This keeps my fingers and hands further away from the blade and makes things safer. Also keeps from having to chase those small pieces around the shop as they get thrown and kicked back. 

I can't an't see it either, nice save!  Beautiful piece by the way. 

This is the plaque I dropped and broke yesterday.  If you look really closely you can see the break but in general I think I got away with it.  I will sell this one a little cheaper and explain it has been repaired.
Rimu from the side panel of a drawer box finished with tung oil and beeswax.
Thanks for looking.
Rob

Greetings,
Two done and I plan on making two more. The pattern is from BerryBasket but,
I modified it from the Catholic version with our debts to the Protestant version with our
trespasses. I also had to modify the sides due to the added lines of text required.
Approximately 35 hours total but, that includes gluing up patterns for the framework of the next two. I already have all the wording cut.
All 1/4" Baltic Birch cut with an 18" Craftsman scrollsaw. Embellishments stained Colonial Maple and the backer stained Early American.
Approximately 22"W x 28"L.
God Bless! Spirithorse

Very nice!!
I got a nice piece of ash one year, we had lots of fun with that.

Very nice!

How did you cheat?  That is beautiful.  I saw that pattern and thought I would have to add a line across the bottom that says "I am your thorn!"

Here's my response to Travis' challenge. Titled "Sweetheart clock". Maple with tung oil finish. Pattern bought from Wooden Teddy Bear. 33 years ago, come this Wednesday, she said yes. Man! How "time" flies!  

I made this vase a while ago. I saw a meme on FB that said "Nude Art is Not Pornography." I contacted the artist, Francois Dubeau, and asked for permission to use his drawing for a scrolled vase which he granted on the condition that I didn't sell it. Anyway, I wasn't thrilled with how it initially came out and it sat around for a while and I came back and filled the fretwork with Filo and liked it much better. The surface wood in African Wenge and the inner layer is walnut and poplar.The vase design is based on a Steve Good design that I modified.
 

Cheap Card. Designed it myself
Will add some verse to back.

This pattern is from blight69

Here's what I came up with.

Well Travis, turned the guilt on me so I decided to try something for mamma.  Decided I have never tried any type of jewelry so maybe a pendant would be fun.  Here are two attempts (the best out of 6).  I'm having trouble with air bubbles in the epoxy.  I just using 15 minute epoxy and it is really two thick.  I do have one more drying that I thinned with acetone, if it tries, it may be better.  Anyway, my wife wouldn't wear anything like this anyway, may put it on her key chain or something..  I'm really just having fun.
 

Just sold my first squirrel to the man that gave me Brazilian cherry scraps ,So as long as I have a fish on the line lets reel in some more of his money,lol He loves squirrels,like me! This is a Sheila Landry pattern .The wood is maple plywood 1/2"

Like a lot of folks I started off standing. After a while I grabbed a bar stool and found it more comfortable. After a few customer complaints the bartender banned me from scrolling at his bar.  OK, seriously I do have a shop stool that is adjustable that I use. 

Here's my response to Travis' challenge. Titled "Sweetheart clock". Maple with tung oil finish. Pattern bought from Wooden Teddy Bear. 33 years ago, come this Wednesday, she said yes. Man! How "time" flies!  

Agreed
 
 That's a neat idea! Never though of that. Plus, 99% of my BB projects are finished with shellac. Thanks Jack!

I have just started using the shelf liner.  Already went through a roll of clear.  The only trouble I've had is using it on BB. For me it lifts and splinters the grain every time I use it on that type of wood. Maybe because its porous, just like bass wood? I do agree with you Paul, it is hard to see.  Just recently, and mistakenly, I  bought a roll of white shelf paper, (Duck Brand), and it seems to work as good as the clear. Could be in my head though, haven't used It enough. 

Makes me thirsty for a beer. Very cool mugs

Here's my response to Travis' challenge. Titled "Sweetheart clock". Maple with tung oil finish. Pattern bought from Wooden Teddy Bear. 33 years ago, come this Wednesday, she said yes. Man! How "time" flies!  

Very impressive!

Just got the pattern removed. Took me 2 hours, to remove it, I think for this kind of detail cutting I will go back to painters tape instead of the clear shelf liner.
This is a Charles Hand pattern.  I took off about 1/2" of the pattern all the way around, which really only left out some of the brush.  This gave me more border for the piece of wood I used.  Now I see I didn't get my borders the same all the way around.  Still trying to figure how I managed that.  I will fix when I decide how I want to frame it.
Cut in Basswood.  Mr. Hand has nice patterns. 
 

Recently I found a three year old Hegner Multicut 2SV on E-Bay in the UK that was offered under the Global Shipping programme.  I knew it would be risky shipping it halfway round the world but decided I had to take the chance.  Despite being well packed, it arrived badly out of alignment and with evidence of a significant impact on the motor.  Fortunately I was able to re-align the frame and motor and the saw is now running perfectly.  Thanks go to Jim Browning for sharing Hegner's response to his alignment issue which was very helpful.
Denny Knappen shared his cutting of a Sheila Landry pattern recently and I thought it would be a good test of the new saw.  Here it is, cut from an old drawer side and as yet unfinished.   I'm really pleased with the Hegner, it's phenomenally accurate and exudes quality.
Rob