WayneMahler
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Everything posted by WayneMahler
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Have a great and safe trip. Enjoy the time together.
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Dave I keep mine in a dedicated folder the copy that to an external hard drive. That way I always have it if I need to re-install for any reason.
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I have never seen true BB in any big box store. What they carry is birch ply but if you look at the layers there are only 3 for 1/4 " thick where as BB would have 5 for the same dimension.
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Les maybe you could provide a link ? Would like to see what is offered.
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Looks great. Clear and concise to explain the products process .
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Larry If you have a volt meter you can measure the voltage at the entrance for the controller board. Then measure the volt on the output side. If you have voltage at the beginning and not at the out put then most likely the board went bad. You should also be able to adjust the output with the speed control and see the difference on the meter. If you are not familiar with electricity I would ask someone that is for help. You would also need to see if the motor is dc before testing the output values. Totally different type of electric and needs measured for dc not ac such as come out of plug in the wall.
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Did not know it happened . Feel disappointed .
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I have a few of his patterns. Love cutting them.
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Congrats on the show . Sounds like you did well for a smaller venue. Happy to hear this.
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Is There A Reason For This Design?
WayneMahler replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Kevin If I understand your question you are trying to work with a mortise and tenon joint. I cut these all the time.I do bases that I glue up and used in furniture I built quite a bit. The best way to get a "good" fit is to sneak up on it. The tenon is cut a little over sized and the the mortise is cut a little under-sized. The you sneak up on the proper fit. When starting out with these they can be a bit of a challenge but that goes away with practice and patience. The same applies to scrolling. Just remember that what you on all side are accumulative and can end up being too much removed for a good fit. I normally divided the space to be removed by 1/2 then cut just shy of that. Thus the sneaking up on the cut. Hope this helps. Keep practicing and it will get a lot easier in time. -
My saw is set up so I don't really think about. I make changes as the project requires and just go from there. Tweaking is always done on the fly so to speak.
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I use a 3M respirator for the "dirty" jobs ( Rated for painting in a body shop ) . Beyond that I use a medical exam mask for general purpose work.
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First thing I did when I got my EX-21 was to eliminate it. Never seen any thing good about it. It provides no useful purpose the way I see it. JMO everyone is different
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I have the Ridgig also and absolutely love it. Well worth the investment and the belts and spindle sanders are easy to find.
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Glad you got the job. I have done similar things with flower shops. They try to talk you down then give in at times. I think it takes a while for it to sink in how much work goes into each piece. Mine started out with just Angels and has grown from there. It can be very inconvenient at times as they don't like to wait. When you have several custom orders waiting to be filled is when they like to call and say I need them by tomorrow . It's all part of growing though. Wish you the best on this endeavor as it could lead to other things.
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Cutting hard maple or white oak I use a skip toothed blade. Size depends on the thickness. I have used the UR blades but cutting is slow and a better chance of getting burn marks for me.
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Good luck with your new toy. Keep us posted once you get it dialed in please. It will be interesting to see how this saw fairs against the others.
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Okay, forget the previous reply. I have seen many of his videos and enjoy watching him , A really great guy indeed.
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So happy hear things worked out great for you. I have gone through the same thing and and chalked it up to a lesson learned. Could provide his name or a link to his video please ? Would enjoy watching it . Thanks
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Sorry to hear of your injury. Wishing you a quick and speedy recovery.
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This can also happen if you have an oil build up between the clamping screws. Remove the screws and clean them with alcohol or something similar. Then wiped down the ends of the blades before you insert them into the clamps . If the screws have and polished marks on them, sand them even with some 220 and then clean and re-install. Hope this helps with your issue.
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Excalibur Adjusting Itself Observation
WayneMahler replied to kmmcrafts's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Never had this happen to me. Your know looks a little different then the one on mine. Mine also has a jamb nut on it under the knob.
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Amber Do you mean tightening the blade in the holder or getting it to tension correctly ?
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Found this video on YouTube. I follow this guy as he does everything by hand. Modern day wood wright type of guy. Here he restores an old pedal driven scroll saw. I hope you enjoy it as much as I did. https://youtu.be/FflO50fTr1I
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I have made some outdoor signs. I have used white oak, cedar and Ipe. They have held up well. For the size your looking for I doubt it would be cost effective though. Bill mentioned exterior plywood which would be a good choice. The biggest thing is to make sure it is sealed very well .
