WayneMahler
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Everything posted by WayneMahler
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You need to use a zero clearance insert. Kevin suggested a playing card which works well. I have also used regular card board ( pop case )but what worked best for me was a piece of 1/8 inch hardboard cut to fit the table top of my saw. It's smooth as piece slide freely on it. And when the blade hole area gets worn out, just cut another insert for it.
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I like Kurt's idea. I was laying them on my bench with a small piece of tape on them with the number on it.
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Nice work, great outcome.
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Thanks Travis. I use free clip art for some custom work I do. Why re-invent the wheel? Really appreciate the time you invest and help you offer to the rest of us. Hats off to you !
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Wow where to start. I have The Last Supper I need to frame, 2 portraits of Jesus praying almost done. Three boxes for Mother's Day, 5 custom orders and about 6 word art signsl Oh 2 Crowns of Thorns waiting for the finsih to dry so I can get them framed and behind glass. Glad the wife likes to put finish on pieces, saves me a lot of time.
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I do mine from 1/2 oak. I get $25 each for them. Some are worth a lot more but buyers can dictate the price.
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It's only a 4 hour drive for me. But can not make it due to lack of funds. I would love to go though. I will be spending a lot of time at my saw though. The country view thre is absolutely gorgous. Love going there although it is getting more and more commercialized. (sp)
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Both Sue and Sheila are great for service and patterns. 2 of my goto places when I am looking.
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Tensioning blades can be difficult to learn. For pinless blades ( all I use ) i backed off the tension adjustment, installed a new blade and then set the tension. I bottomed out the ends of the blade in the bottom and top holders before setting the tension. When I change blades I just bottom the ends and then pull the tension lever. Blades are set. If the blades stretch a bit, on the fly works well. But I normally found that when a blade starts to stretch it is time to replace it. This may not be the right way but I know it works for me.
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I ordered a gross of blades from Mike's Shop. Got them in the same amount of time, and all the prices stayed the same. This was a concern as I order a lot of blades. The only difference I experienced was the email Mike sent out the same or next day saying it was shipped and thinking me. Always made me feel appreciated. They did include a small paper that said the numbers had changed for customer service but that ws the only differences in the order. WTB did say they were keeping his site and prices, and I hope they continue to do so.
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One thing I really enjoy about the village is how humble the people are. I have seen many beautiful projects and patterns here. I agree that letters are tough to cut. I do very detailed fret work, and have had to learn to cut letters for signs. Script it easier the block letters. I did find that when I have to cut a longer straight line that I change blades. As they wear they want to wander off line, a new sharp blade holds the line better. I know I still find myself going back to pratice patterns just to help keep the eye and hands working together. For those of us that make " designer firewood', you should see my scrap box. As with any type of scrolling, practice, practice and more practice. A lot of patience helps too. So glad to have found this site and become a member of the village.
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I am not familiar with the Dremel. I do cut thicker pieces on my saw. I use a #7 or #9 skip tooth or crown type blabe. Just watch the speed of the blade and the speed you feed the wood. Take your time and play with a piece of the same wood to get a feel for it all. It also helps to cover it with packing tape, as the tape will help lubricate the blade.
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I use Flying Dutchman Blades only. I order mine from Mikesworkshop.com I understand The Wooden Teddybear just bought Mike out and they are keeping his web site and prices. I just ordered a gross of blades from it and they shipped fast and kept the pricing the same. I have used Olsen in the past, I just preer the FD myself.
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I have the 13" rigid. It has plenty of power, knives are easy to change and it gets a lot of use in my shop. For the price it is definately worth looking at. Not sure if they still have the lifetime service agreement on them. One of the reasons I got mine. ANd th service department I called was a joy to work with too. All I needed was the replacement sticker for the depth guage and they sent it promptly to me. This one is about 6 years old, and I have had no other issues with it.
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Great saw, and a greater wife. I'm waiting to get an ex-21 as soon as the funds are availible. Nice work on the pattern and cut too.
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I have been following this thread on Facebook. Seems this guy found a loop hole someplace. He also assumes nobody will sue him becuase of the effort and cost associated with it. Somoeone had contacted him and posted his reply to the one group up there. It was a pretty ignorant reply as I remember. Even quoted some statutes with his reply. Would take some digging to find it . My personal thoughts are simple. If you don't own it don't sell it. As for those that provide "free" patterns should put something on them about free to use and distribute as long as the disclaimer stays intact. I also believes he sells them as stencils, and has it worded that way. Just burns my rear when someone takes things that are not properly owned.
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Turtle Creek, PA ( 12 miles east of Pittsburgh )
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How long do you sit/stand at the scroll saw?
WayneMahler replied to Dan's topic in General Scroll Sawing
For me it depends on the day. I average between 5 to 6 hours on a week day after work, on the week ends normally more then that. We do crafts shows and stock goes pretty fast. The Mrs. likes her tv, I don't watch it much so I work in the shop. -
I use cheaters. I have a T-5 light right above my scroll saw. With the addition of all the other lights it is great. I found that the magifiers, get dusty quick and tend to distort things if you move your heads position. So for me it the great lighting and cheaters. They still get dusty, but are quick to clean with a towel right beside me.
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I used to participate in a weekly chat at anopther saite. Actually I was running it. It was nice and the subjects changed weekly. I would definately be interested as long as I can make it. I think it is great to get a bunch people together and share thoughts, ideas and answer questions.
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I am a stander. I also keep the stereo going, mostly Christian Music, unless there is a sports game on. The footswith is at the base of saw, mounted on a custom stand I made for it. I tried sitting and it was good for smaller projects, ut stretching for the foot pedal gave my leg a cramp.
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Working on two plaques for a customer. One is call "Crown of Thorns" the other is a praying hands over a bible with a cross piece. The crown goes intoa regulaer style frame with glass. They praying hands will be mounted in an oval frame that I working on now. Never thought ovals would be so trying to make. I'll post pictures of them when I get them completed.
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I normally go to www.dafont.com if I need a font. You can download them to your computer and use them anytime. And they are free.
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I too am a hoarder. Wait, I save wood to repurpose for the beautification of ........ Crap, yeap a hoarder.
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For me it is religous items. Crosses, scences and portriats of Christ. Smaller items like letter openers, desk clocks and name plaques work well too. Towards the later part of the year, it is ornaments, especially personallized ones, and baby's first christmas. No matter how many I make, it is always fun. If you try a flea market or craft fair, make alittle sign that says custom orders accepted. That has always seemed to help also.
