RangerJay

Thanks - I really appreciate the kind words. To answer a couple of questions: - the frame is a "Greene and Greene Frame" - if you Google those words you will find many variations on this frame - most call for a mortise and tenon joint but I used dowels. - the cording is braided cord purchased from Amazon and I think readily available through most hobby/craft stores - very inexpensive - attached with a bead of CA glue along the entire joint - really easy to do - a lot easier than I originally thought. Thanks again, Jay

I have wanted to cut this Charles Dearing Lynx ever since I first saw it - that was at least a couple of years ago - maybe a little longer - and I finally got round to doing it. I can see myself cutting a lot more of his patterns in the future - but holy smoke they sure take time ..... The cutting is walnut and the frame is pine. Any comments or suggestions will be very welcome. Thanks, Jay

Quite a while back I had the same problem - and expressed the same level of frustration ..... upon advice from this forum I scrapped the spiral blades I had and purchased Flying Dutchman blades - "Spirals with Flat Ends" and also the smaller "New Spirals" - that problem is now in the distant past and Flying Dutchman spirals have become my "go to" blades for all intricate fretwork. Jay

Holy moly - that's the real Cadillac of cutting centres!! Jay

Been a heavy duty lurker here for quite a while - enjoyed the gallery a lot - and have recently completed one course at the Village University ..... and didn't even know about the free cookies ...... great forum. Thanks, Jay

Really outstanding work - that framing effect is great. Jay

Wow - looks like you have the entire biblical community in that project - absolutely great - marvelous work. Jay

One of the neatest moments every day is waking up knowing I don't have to get up early ...... but what gets really weird is - I still get up early ...... every day ..... cause I want to ...... go figure ....... Jay

..... my apologies if I jumped the gun ..... Thanks, Jay

We're all scrollers here Larry - some young - some old - some newbies - some veterans - all here for no other reason than furthering their own skills or contributing to the skills of others - really don't understand your beef - whatever it is it seems misplaced. Jay

This kind of post adds nothing to anything ...... Jay

Great looking cutting! This is a stunning pattern - one of Mike Williams best - and he has some great patterns! I'd also be interested in knowing how you transferred the pattern to the wood - sure looks like it sure beats taping and gluing ..... Thanks, Jay

For the church window I just did a google search titled "Church Windows" - there are lots that come up but the one I used can be found here: http://photographyofgrace.com/3dTextures/transparentpngs/outside/OldChurchWindow.png I printed the picture in black and white but it did not exactly print in even proportions - maybe the picture was taken at a bit of an angle - so I ended up reproducing it in a line drawing made with pencil and ruler and that worked out fine. Yes - I stack cut the Christ figure as well as the Cross. Christ figure is about 3/16th inch and the Cross is 1/8 Baltic Birch. Hope this helps. Jay

Thanks so much for all of your kind words. First - a very humble apology - I do love cutting from the patterns of both Sheila Landry and Sue Mey but in this case I got the source of the patterns wrong - so - with genuine apologies to the both of them ...... the cuttings came from Wildwood designs - the Christ figure is pattern # 1476 and the Cross is pattern #62243 ...... guess I really need to bite the bullet and do a serious clean up the filing system for my patterns ...... sorry about that. The church "window" design is taken from images that turned up in a Google search. These pieces are not that big - about 10" tall and they are not that hard to cut - all you need is a little patience. The inside cuts on the Christ figure are cut with 2/0 flat blade. The inside cuts of the Cross are cut with a #1 and 2/0 spirals. The biggest lesson I learned on this project is that Maple Burl is a lot easier to cut than I would have imagined - a good thing - but - when cutting thin stock you really need to be careful or the swirly grains of the burl will take the blade in places you really don't want to be ..... and ...... no matter how gentle you are ...... a sanding mop is simply not a good idea ...... the original idea was that all the Christ figures would be from the Maple Burl ..... only one survived the sanding mop ..... you'd think I would have learned after the first one broke up ..... Thanks again, Jay

Just finished these up this afternoon - first time I've posted pictures on this site - hope it works ..... Patterns are put together from work by Sue Mey, Sheila Landry and my own hacking around with the backing pieces. Backing pieces are Elm (one Striped Elm and one stained White Elm) and Maple - White Elm and Maple are "Rescue" wood from old - really old - school desks - old guys (like me) will remember the desks with ink wells in the corner ..... Crosses are Baltic Birch. Christ figures are Walnut (2) and Maple Burl (1) - first time working with Maple Burl - really like it - finish effect is terrific. Comments welcome. Jay

I haven't actually read here that anyone sees a benefit to moving to Windows 10 - no "Wow - this is a ton better!!" - so my question: 8.1 is working fine for me - is there a reason to move to 10 and go through a new learning curve? Thanks, Jay

Looks like it will take a little getting used to - I had the same trouble - then answered the little arithmetic question - and away the post went ..... maybe they want us to improve our math skills (and that was my worst subject in school) ...... Jay

I don't tend to be a prolific poster - but like others - I found myself suffering withdrawal symptoms as each day goes by without the SSWC forum - it was my main "goto" scrollsaw forum - but having said that - my daily "fix" is now being very well met through this site - it's a great site - and I see enough familiar names on it to know that I'm not the only one from SSWC to move over here ..... when the SSWC forum gets back up and running I will be doubly blessed with two great sites - actually I guess triple blessed - have also been spending more time over at Scrollsaw Workshop Forum as well ....... Jay

There are a few tools you can use. If the backside is not going to be seen then a torch does the quickest job of cleaning up fuzzies - it does leave burn marks. If a torch is not practical for the fuzzies then there are a few other approaches: a folded and very narrow strip of 150 or 220 grit sandpaper on your finger is about the simplest method. A set of rifflers does a great job - particularly on those hard-to-get-at spots and a set of diamond carving burrs gently used in your dremel tool also does well. For taking out the little ridges on inside cuts the diamond carving burrs and/or small sanding drums on your Dremel really can't be beat. For softening the hard edges of fretwork you might try a well broken in sanding map on an old cordless drill - mine is a ancient 7.2 volt Makita that does not have a lot of power nor speed. I keep a very light touch with the mop and pass it over the piece in all 4 directions. Does a great job. Jay

This is a pretty basic piece of rough carpentry. The top (plywood on 2X6's) sits directly on top of a second circular piece of plywood that ties in the top of the legs. Pivot point is a spike - I did not use a lazy susan bearing. There is enough friction from the weight of the tools that there is no unwanted rotation. I did include stop holes with the idea of inserting a second spike to prevent unwanted rotation but have never felt the need to use them. When I need to rotate the table I lift slightly at two adjacent 2X6's and simply shift the table top 1/3 a turn in whatever direction I need. My version of this table was definitely built with function, not form, in mind - if I recall correctly the original plans had quite a bit more finesse about them ..... I took a couple extra pictures to show the underside. Jay

Here's a couple pictures. Currently set-up to use the drill press. Turning the table top clockwise 1/3 turn will bring the jointer to the front or counter-clockwise 1/3 turn will bring the router table to the front. I think I originally got the design for this from an old Popular Mechanics magazine - some 30 years ago ...... Jay

Maybe consider making a lazy susan type tool stand that holds multiple bench top tools. I've used on for decades that holds 3 pieces of equipment on a much smaller footprint than needed if I had to find space for each one to stand alone. Currently it holds my bench top drill press, jointer and router table. It wouldn't accommodate the large square footprint of an Excalibur but perhaps might work with one of the ones that are narrower and more triangular in shape. If it wouldn't be feasible for a scrollsaw it might provide you with new choices for other bench top equipment thus freeing up space for your scrollsaw.

Thanks a lot! - hit the magic milestone call Senior Citizen today - feels kinda good - and, thanks to my wife of 42 years, out in the Shed is a spanking new Excalibur 16" ...... life just doesn't get any better!! Jay

Couple close calls!!!

I've put my armchair judges hat on and taken a thorough look at all the evidence ...... It is my considered judgement that if you end up in trouble with making a pattern of your own children, from a photo you had commissioned and paid for, then cut a scrolled portrait as an additional family memento, to be hung in your own home, never to be sold ..... well ..... then the rest of us are pretty much fugitives at large ...... Jay