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Ctutor

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Everything posted by Ctutor

  1. Daughter and son in law live on Teagues Point Road. I live in Lusby. Maybe see you some time Darryl
  2. Tom what part of So Md are you in? Are you around Solomons?? Darryl
  3. the lacquer sticks I mentioned are also called burn in sticks. Amazon has many colors. I got mine years ago in a woodworking or cabinet making store.
  4. you might try mixing it with lacquer or ca glue.I used to use lacquer stick when refinishing cabinets. the stuff is in sticks that you light and drop into the dnet. It sands great and does not show when sanded.
  5. try https://ocoochhardwoods.com/plywood/
  6. Gary also make certain your [rointer will handle the material. It is a bit thicker than 20 # paper. If your printer handles envelopes you should have no problems. I use noname labels from Amazom. Avery is p-r0bably a bit better but I went the cheeeep way.
  7. I have used labels (sticky back) and Xylon. Both work very well. Make certain you get the non permanent or temporary label material. The permanent requires the use of heat gun to remove which also works well.
  8. If you have a scrapbooker in your house try Xylon. You run your pattern through the unit and it applies a thin coat of sticky stuff to the back which you can reposition if you get the right stuff. A roll costs about $19 for 50 '. works great and no mess.
  9. absolutely, I have a Scrolnado attached and still wear a mask.. Just one look at the fine dust is n the mask is enough to make me a believer. Lungs are sensitive to the particles in the air and they are more expensive than a dust mask or respirator. Wear something!!!!!
  10. Steve Goode has a great trivit pattern. I use the rose one but there are others in the packet. I used 1/2 inch cherry and got some plastic feet 1/4 inch from amazon that stick on. Wroks well
  11. You can also use Tightbond transparent glue. Never see the crack and strong.
  12. probably Inkscape
  13. might try a heat gun. Like "her" hair gun
  14. You will learn to love it. Two things you might want to add is the sonaldo ( cuts clean up and dust) attached to an old shop vac and the lifter to keep the arm up while loading. Minor but will make the great saw even better.
  15. you could get by with shellac. Might be tricky but first outline the boarder at the attachment point with an knife then apply the shellac to the groove to seal the area. I' ty it on scap but it should work. dh
  16. I'd use Tightbond translucent lue using a few dabs around the perimeter. The translucent glue may ooze out but is transparent and would not interrfer with the appearance.
  17. I use it and find it great. I made a couple of mods. Put the tube on the left since I have a lifter installed. I also pinched the tube to keep the bigger pieces from being sucked up. I find that I periodically need to reverse the suction on the vacuum to blow out any pieces that get picked up.
  18. yes it is called kerning. I don't use Word but is probably in format area. You can generally kern with the arrow keys in very small steps. Oh no I remember it is in the font area on the home tab in Word.
  19. try lowes.com
  20. for bearings also try Boca Bearing in Florida, very helpful folks... Darryl
  21. Had a similar problem. Found that the bolt holding the arm at the back had worked loose. One of the common problems is the adjustment at the front of the speed controller. There is a video by the Gwanette woodturners that goes through the disassembly of the 788 and various fixings. If you can not find it let me know and I'll dig it up. Bearings may be a problem but probably not. How old is the unit? The disassembly looked to be formidable but was not. Very straight forward and it took less than an hour to take it apart and put it back together. There is another site ( I think it starts with a person's name) that has all kinds of fixes for the 788 various problems and adjustments.Again if you can't find it let me know and I'll try to dig up the links.
  22. I use xyron. The stuff that scrapbookers use. I print out the pattern run it through the xyron and stick it to the wood. when finished I either heat it and peel it off or if I use the removable type it peels right off. Sometimes I cover the xyron with packing tape. I seems to lubricate the cutting. Runs about $20 for fifty feet.
  23. with no wood around the blade tension the blade and pluck it until it sounds clear. Look at the numbers or whatever on the tensioning device. then when you put the wood on just turn to that setting. Don't worry if its not at 440 cycles that really does not matter. Save you $$ for wood or patters
  24. Travis I use "Xyron". Just run the pattern through the inkjet and then roll it through the xyron and apply. A bit expensive but 40 feet of the stuff for $19.00 is not bad. Peels off with no residue.
  25. Do you have the " lifter" intalled. It would appear that moving the hose would interfer with the lifter mechanism. Just a thought
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