Ctutor

Sure if you think anyone would be interested. Here is where I am so far. 1. Get some polymer clay. It is not modeling clay which does not harden. I used several brands like FIMO. Bottom left corner it says something like 230 degrees 20 minutes. Must be the hardening stuff. Many colors “Michaels” has it on sale at less than 1/3 runs about $2-7 2. Knead the clay till it is workable. Might try some softener that makes it easier to knead. Rather stiff stuff 3. I got a kit from Amazon that had a roller, knives, and stylus for a few bucks. 4. Push clay into the holes and pack it tight. I found that applying a backer board at this step makes it easier ‘cause the clay oozes out the back and it becomes a push and shove contest. 5. Leave some clay proud of the surface. If you have the sharp knife cut the clay even on the front surface. 6. Bake in an oven or as in my case in my Air Fryer at 230 F for 20 minutes for 1/4 inch thick 7. Sand and finish I have used polyurethane and or lacquer still working that out. 8. Longevity and wearability still in the I don’t know stage.

Denny here are pics of first experiments with polymer clay. I baked them in my air fryer where the temp can be carefully monitored

neat I am experimenting with trivets and using polymer clay inserted in the "holes" and baked for color. So far it has worked but there are bugs I am working om

how about a metalic tan or gold?

I'd rather see a contrasting wood tone brown

Amazon has several rotary drills with flexible hand pieces and tons of attachments including sanding drums. The wen is about $19.00 work very nicely for small items

Steve's post today is a basket. He gets the look of tilting the sides by making each ring smaller that the next one up. fairly easy to do. Carole Rothman has book on Wooden Bowls on Amazon that uses the table tilting method. A bit challenging.

"Scroll Saw Wooden bowls" Amazon

I use thin stuff for Alex Fox's stacked projects where the layers make up the pattern. Need the strength for some of the very fine details

a ton of fun!!!

Marcie I always dimple the bottom of the board with an ice picK. NO NEED TO LOOK FOR A DRILL.

Hi welcome to the community. Looks like you have been cutting for some time. Many patterns out there. If you as an artist can do your own have at it and share some of them with us.

Interesting discussion. I bought a bunch of Alex Foxe's pattern when I heard about him losing is home and stuff when the Russian invasion of the Ukraine hit his area. Never intended to cut the patterns but the more I looked at them the more intrigued I became in particular some of the more intricate patterns. Am now a fan of his. The cutting is a challenge in some cases but the assembly and final result are worth it. He sells them at a very dirt cheap rate on Etsy. What talent that person has. Don't see how his sales keep family going but apparently they do.

welcome to the slide to temptation. Depends on who drew the pattern usually the dark part is left. Sometimes the artist will leave a dark or red line around the part to be left. If you study the pattern you can visualize the parts to be left. They are always anchored to a side . Might say good by to your lathe. After 20 years working one I must admit I like cutting patenrs. Try Alex Fox in Ukraine. His patterns on Etsy are neat but challenging. Darryl

Thanks Travis. I gave to St Jude Children's Hospital

#3 and # 5 Modified Geometry Pegus ( now) for almost everything. 2.0 Mfg for Alex Fox fretwork type patterns where the narrow kerf is needed.

The font you are looking up is called a serif font (with feet) sans serif is without feet. Those are the two main groups. You can look up fonts on the internet there are tons of them. Most sites show you what they look like. Your word processor will do the same thing.

smaller blade would be my suggestion. Check out Steve Goode for a compound cutting jig it helps.

My 89 year young eyes also find it hard sometimes to see lines. I put a light down on the side of the table so it shines across the work piece. By moving the light I can make a sharp shadow on the line at the saw point that tends to highlight the blade. Works real good on a 2.0 blade that is small to be gin with. Your work is nothing to hide ;looks great!.

hi welcome. Did it take long to learn to stand on your head and turn counter clockwise rather than clockwise? I'v e turned some of those woods as well as sawed them. Nice grain and looks good when fished. keep us up to date on your experiences.

stopped using spray adhesive. I use 81/2 x 11 address label paper. Works well. Print directly on it and peel and stick. can get re positionable and permanent.

My comments above refer to the "cellulose" type lacquer. In this day and age you must read the label. Water based finishes have their own rules. They do not "burn" the previous coat and so need different techniques. Some of the "new" finishes raise the wood grain more than others. Those that do require sanding. Nuts oh for the good old days.

I have been using Deft lacquer for years Ace has it. Sometimes I start with sanding sealer (one coat) if the wood needs a sealer in which case you do need to sand then top coat. You do not need to sand between the finish coats since the new coat does "burn" into the previous coat. I let it cure for a few days and then sand the last coat if needed. I sometimes buff the last coat after curing.. I use the "critter" spray unit at about 40 PSI to spray. The beauty of the Critter is that it uses mason jars and I keep one with Acetone to spray through the Critter to clean up. The Deft semi gloss does have a slight yellow tint the clear is almost crystal

Bocz Bearings. They are in Fl but no shipping. Call them and give them the numbers and they will help select the best for your application

Avery makes a removable label sheet for inkjet or laser. Check amazon