Jump to content

OCtoolguy

SSV Silver Patron
  • Posts

    10,477
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    28

Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. Yes, for sure. But as stated prior, the old stuff was the good stuff. Cast iron doesn't go bad unless it's totally rusted out. These old saws had a bulletproof mechanism and used sealed bearings. Any motor will work as long as it has enough power. A belt now and then is all that's required as for maintenance. And one of those segmented belts will last forever and run smooth. If I run across one that appears to be in decent condition, I'm going to snap it up. The one pictured has both extension tables bolted to one side. Not sure why but that would have to be changed. These old saws are great for building into a cabinet with out-feed table etc.
  2. Part of it power. The tilting arbor saws usually have a bigger motor. Also, the motorized saws have quite a bit of play in their bearings and the shaft will start to wobble after a lot of use. I've had both types and the tilting arbor saws are far better. I've been seeing a lot of the old Crafstman saws for sale on C/L for $100 on up depending on condition. They seem to be a pretty good saw and have a small footprint. Some of them had table extensions that make the saw wider. I'm thinking of buying one of them just to tinker with and see if I can restore it to it's original look/feel. Here's one like I'm referring to. This one has a side extension but most don't. These things were really built. https://orangecounty.craigslist.org/tls/d/laguna-niguel-table-saw-craftsman/7252826926.html
  3. I agree Kevin..I buy things from H/F and sometimes I just fix what's wrong. Easier than returning to the store. Many times it's just adjustment.
  4. Since you've had two lemons, I think I'd either change horses or call in a vet. Or, how about opening the box at H/D and putting it together right there in front of them? It's really a shame that you have to go through that to buy a decent product. Are there any deals on Dewalt saws? My first one was a used type 1 and it was great. After greasing all the bearings/sleeves it became "greater". Maybe there is a new Pegas in your future. Just sayin'.........
  5. I have always been fascinated by scrollers using an old peddle saw. I wish I had space for one.
  6. I have a folding Dewalt jobsite saw that works fine for me. I was going to upgrade to a contractor's saw but decided what I have is ok. Now that I have "tuned" it up it works fine. And I saw a video where a guy has installed a 7 1/4" 40 tooth blade in his and it leaves a really small kerf and very smooth edges. It is fine for most cuts.
  7. That's all fine Kevin but go buy a tv or microwave made in the U.S. That is what Trump has been trying to get accomplished. Bring the manufacturing back to this country. With that said, I wish that the Japanese or Koreans would take up the manufacture of power tools. I was selling Snap-On Tools back when the first Makita cordless drills hit the market. Expensive but great. Makita was the best name in woodworking tools for a long time. But eventually other manufactures came out with their stuff and the whole cycle started again. In order to sell their stuff, they had to make them less costly. Then the quality went to Hell. I remember how they forced Detroit to build better cars. We now all drive cars that are great. The junk that was coming out of Detroit back in the 70's and 80's was just that. Junk.
  8. I wrote a complete description on what to do and when I saved it, it disappeared. I'll try again. Up in the top right corner where your profile pic is, there is a down arrow. Click on that an a menu will drop. Click on "account settings" and click on that. Then over on your left of the screen, there will be a menu. Select "signature" That will open a window where you can create your signature. Along the top where all the tools are, you'll see a capital A. Hover over that and it will say "color". Click it and the color window will open. Select what you want. I just tried to change mine to green but it hasn't taken effect yet.
  9. It's a very well-kept secret. I'm not sure I can even tell you. There is an option somewhere in the area where you create your signature.
  10. I looked at the Bauer at H/F yesterday and it looks pretty good. At our age, how good is good? If it works for a few years, that's good enough.
  11. When I had my Hegner, every so often, I'd just dribble a couple of drops at the tops of the bushings and let it find it's way to where needed. The oil will last until "forever" and only cost a couple of bucks at most years ago. There are just not many points on a Hegner that require much attention. That grease might be ok for the rear ends of the 2 arms but other than that, I think oil will suffice.
  12. I'm asking out of curiosity. I have been dipping my projects in natural color Watco oil and once dried I shoot a couple of coats of Zinnser's spray shellac on them. So far so good. How does this compare to the blo/ms? Just asking.
  13. Don't you eventually run out of towels?
  14. Sorry that it is out of focus and sort of shaky. It was a 3D pic on FB so it didn't copy well. I'll clean it up and try to make some sort of pattern. I just love the sentiment.
  15. The trick with 3M 77 is to spray both surfaces and let it sit until it is almost dry to the touch. Then slap them together. Very much like contact cement.
  16. I too would be writing those letters but I don't speak or write Chinese. Sad! Anyway, I hope you get a better on this time around. Had it been me, I might have popped the extra for a Dewalt at H/D. Of course, I have no idea what that difference might have been. Maybe too much. Anyway, best of luck.
  17. There are many answers to your question. But, I think everybody wants to get the best deal they can on a "NAME" brand product. As Dan said, Delta used to be a respectable brand name. I too had a Delta Unisaw and a Delta drill press. They were both great tools. I also had a Delta 14" band saw that I bought before the Laguna came out. Anyway, I digress. Folks come here to get an answer to their questions as to which scroll saw to buy. We, as a group, try to give good advice. Once again, the Dewalt name used to be a great name but it has gone downhill. We suggest that the newbies buy the best they can afford. If that means a $100 saw, well, they will get what they paid for. I've heard that many folks have dropped out of the hobby because of the frustration of a cheap saw. When I came into the hobby, I read a ton and asked a lot of questions. I couldn't afford $500 for a new Dewalt but that was the saw that was suggested at that time. I found a good used one on C/L. From that point on, I just kept experimenting and buying/selling as I went. I now have 2 great saws but I still would not have laid out the big bucks for either one. With the Delta, it seems to be a crapshoot as to whether you will get a good saw or a problem saw. Depends mostly on who is putting it together, what day of the week and who inspects it prior to shipping. It's the same with most everything you buy today. We need to get manufacturing back into this country. Vote intelligently!!
  18. I'm working on my second million. I got tired and gave up on the first one.
  19. Glad I was able to help. That's what we do here at the Village.
  20. One of my customers, years ago, gave me a package of industrial quality 1/8" drill bits. I'm still using them and I think I have a half package left. Great stuff. While we are on the subject, does anybody buy/try the drill bits from H/F? The prices are great if the bits are any good. I made the mistake of buying some cheap brad point bits off Amazon and it was money wasted. They looked good in the picture but the tips are off center.
  21. I guess that's why I buy mostly used stuff. I know going in that I might have to do some work on it but usually not. I recently bought a used Excalibur 16 and brought it home. I turned it on and ran it through the rpm range and it vibrated a bit as expected. After all it wasn't clamped down. Anyway, long story longer, I clamped it to the workbench and ran it up again. Much better that time. But, I just went ahead and torn it apart to check the bearings/sleeves and make sure everything was ok on the inside. I now have a real jewel of a saw. Actually two saws as I did the same with my EX 21. As far as I'm concerned, let the first buyer be the guinea pig. I don't mind scraping up the pieces. So sorry to hear of your bad experience though. It's a definite example of the times we live in and why we MUST get manufacturing back into this country. Vote wisely.
  22. I have 2 Ex's and they are not sealed bearings. They are caged roller bearings with sleeves running through them. There may be one or two sealed bearings at the motor/crankshaft but not at any of the pivot points. It's almost identical to the Dewalt.
  23. Oh just go for it!
  24. You will wonder how you ever got along without a band-saw. I use mine all the time. I don't have a dedicated table saw. I have to wheel it outdoors and set it up so I make lots of quick cuts on my band-saw. Very handy.
  25. I followed the 3 part video by Bob Brokaw and did the whole process on my Dewalt. It helped a lot. Since then I have acquired 2 Excaliburs and have done the parts that are easily accessible. I highly recommend doing a complete service on this type of mechanism. The subject of grease attracting sawdust was raised earlier in this thread. To a certain extent that might be right. But the sawdust is much softer than the bearings/sleeves and should not cause any negative effect. The grease, or lack of it, will have far more detrimental effect than the sawdust will. In most cases it's not difficult to take a shop towel and wipe those spots and keep them clean. It's the cheapest way to extend the life of your saw.
×
×
  • Create New...