OCtoolguy
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Everything posted by OCtoolguy
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I wonder why nobody has picked up on them. The patent has to be nearing its end. If not already expired.
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The Art of Marquetry. I mentioned it in the earlier thread about inlay. I'm away from the book right now. Edit: Here is the author of the book in question: Craig Vandall Stevens
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And I'm not too far ahead of you. I consider myself a novice but I've learned a ton from the good folks here. It's the friendliest bunch I've met yet. And the best part is they're from all over. Some that hardly ever post do BEAUTIFUL work. I'm in awe.
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Yes you do. It's no harder that what you are doing now. It's just a technique to be learned. If you get hold of that book I mentioned, it takes you through it step by step. You can adapt everything to the thickness of material that you want to work with. The only thing that really changes is the angle of your saw table or tilting head. You're way ahead of most on what you have already done.
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Here is a picture of my first attempt at marquetry. This was done at the class I took and the material is only about .060 thick. Maybe less. Not sure. We learned shading by using hot sand. It is a lot of fun.
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From what I have been taught and read, the trick to hiding the drill holes is to start the drill bit on the waste area of the saved piece and have the drill cross over at an angle to the waste area of the lower piece. Drilling the hole at the same angle as your table is tilted prior to cutting. I wish you had access to the book that I talked about..It is all explained there in pictures. By drilling straight down, you are effecting both pieces in the same place. You have to find a way to slant drill from one side to the other.
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Every once in a while the gods shine on you.
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Don't let that dust collection feature fool you. I have heard that it is so concentrated that it literally sucks the workpiece to the table and makes it unmoveable. Lots of folks have removed it and made their own design for vacuum hookup. After having my EX I can tell you that you won't be sorry you chose the EX. On another note, you mentioned inlay work. If you get interested in doing inlay or marquetry, there is a great book that you will want to get hold of. It's name is "The Art of Marquetry" by Craig Vandall Stevens. It explains a lot. Also, Dave Monk did a great video on inlay that you will want to watch a few times.
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We had a 36 ft. Hitchhiker and a 2001 Chev CC dually. We traveled with 3 cats. I had to find a new hobby while we were out on the road and it became woodcarving. That was a passion for a good while until I found scrolling. I haven't carved in over a year now. But, I'll get back to it at some point. I envy you. We miss our travels so much but just can't afford to have a home base and a rig.
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What saw are you using just so we can keep everything straight?
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The Dewalt is larger than the EX21 or Pegas. With that said, if you are looking to stay small I'd probably go with either the EX16 or keep your eyes open for a used Hegner 14. They seem to be plentiful and make great travel saws. The Dewalt is quite heavy. Not small in any way. I've been a full-time RVer and after being in your shoes, so to speak, I know how space and weight figure into your travels. I think the 16" EX would be my choice.
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There are a lot of old Delta machines on my local C/L. Do you folks know if the blade holders will interchange between models at all? If you can run down what saws have clamps that might interchange, I might be able to put you onto used saws near me. I just found one for $30 but I'm not sure about the interchangeability of the clamps. I realize that the Delta part numbers might be different but if one model's clamp to could be made to work in another model saw, it might open some doors of availability. Let me know and I'll try to help. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/tls/d/san-diego-16-delta-scroll-saw/6986697372.html
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I did the upgrade to my EX21. My saw was made in Canada prior to them being made in China/Taiwan. I think it was a very good upgrade. Probably not necessary but it did seem to take a bit of the vibration out of my saw. Not that it had that much. But, with that said, I was going to do the same upgrade to my Dewalt but then I sold it when I bought my Hawk. If it were up to me, it's one of the first things I'd do to a saw that accommodates the Pegas clamps. If you are truly thinking about that type of saw, save some money and just buy the Pegas saw up front. It has the $100 clamps on it. I have no personal experience other than the clamps and the blades but my thoughts are that they are a top-notch company and might just have a bit better quality control over their saws at the factory in Taiwan. Just my opinion. For what it's worth.
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I agree Les. But the 14 is so small it's not a long stretch to operate the tension release. But the 18 & 22 require very long arms. After having an 18 I have thought back about how inconvenient it would have been to release, change hole, retension it would have been if my saw would not have had the tension release lever at the operator spot. I really wish my saw would have worked out. I am still watching for tge right deal to come along.
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Make sure, as Paul stated, that it has he tension release lever. It is very expensive to upgrade because it requires a new style upper arm. For me, that would be would be the most important thing to look for. Good luck.
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It is strange in this digital world that tgey don't offer it way. Since they send digital media to the printer why not sell it that way. And I know if they offered all the patterns that way, many of us would pay for them. I did email them with the suggest a year or so ago and they wrote back that they just weren't set up to do it. I'd love to know why. Heck, hire me and I'll do it from my home.
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I love this post.
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Did you go to Scrollsaws.com? There is the info there to fix what is wrong. It's not difficult if you own a file and a torx screwdriver set. Might take the better part of an hour.
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How about putting down another layer of plywood to "stiffen" the floor. Or maybe try to find a piece of 1 inch plywood to put under your saws and screw it to the existing floor. You've got to take the spring out of the floor. I have the same problem in my shed. I have my saws sitting next to the walls to get as much firm support as possible and I also put the rubber matting down. Solved most of the problem.
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I just answered this.
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It can be a couple of things but the most common one is the tension rod hitting the cover over it. There are a couple of things to do to fix it. The best thing I can suggest is to visit scrollsaw.com. There is a lot of info there regarding the 788. Everything that goes with the 788's has a fairly easy fix. If you have already had the side cover off you are inclined enough mechanically to perform most all the repairs. If I can be of help please feel free to PM me. Good luck.
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Paul, you have a simple way of bringing "focus" to every topic. You are so right. I guess once you find something that works and seems to solve a known problem, that becomes the "right" way to go. Bottom line, whatever blows your skirt up I guess.
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You must keep a notebook close by to be able to remember which blade goes with which saw when cutting which wood. Life is too short for me to get THAT involved. It's still just a hobby.
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Makers Mark has the same effect.
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Well said. I haven't used that many FD blades but I just know that when I tried to switch between the Pegas #5 mgt and the FDUR #5, it was a real eye-opener. That FD blade was just uncontrollable to me. But, at some point, I'll give them another try. Baskin Robbins again.
