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OCtoolguy

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Everything posted by OCtoolguy

  1. OCtoolguy
    I will do this to mine at some point.
  2. OCtoolguy
    Paul, you are probably correct. I can't recall what my Hegner table was made of but it was mentioned above that it might be iron. I do remember that it was heavy as heck though. So, if a magnetic sheet won't stick how about a piece of laminate with some double stick tape? Or ever 3M 77? It could be removed with a heat gun when the time comes.
  3. OCtoolguy
    I think putting a magnetic sheet on the table would solve all the problems and give you a zero clearence at the same time. If I ever have that problem on my EX I plan on doing this.
  4. OCtoolguy
    @Rustynail, I just checked out his videos and he pretty much uses the same technique that I learned. Thanks for the tip. I will use what I learned when doing inlay. What I came to realize is that once you have a completed marquetry panel, you have to find a project to use it on. I think doing inlay on a box or a bowl bottom is more useful. It's the technique that counts.
  5. OCtoolguy
    I had heard of that place but never checked them out. I just did and they do have some great prices. Thanks for the heads up.
  6. OCtoolguy
    The day I bought my Bauer, I used it for a good 2-3 hours. I burned through a package or more of paper. So, I figured that was a pretty good test. That's before I posted about it. I wanted to use it first. But, it looks like this is just one of those times that we will have to agree to disagree. Furthermore, are those Bosch refurbs always available or just once in a while if you're lucky?
  7. OCtoolguy
    I'm really sorry you had such a bad experience Kevin. I guess I've never had the fortune to use a really high-end sander. Years ago I had a very nice Dewalt but it got sold. I, for one, think the Bauer sander is just as good as my Dewalt. But, if I was sanding 24/7 I might have a bit more discretion too. For $25, I can put up with it.
  8. OCtoolguy
    Very nice. Be sure to post the finished product.
  9. OCtoolguy
    Nice to see something old is new again.
  10. OCtoolguy
    I agree Kevin but we all know how cheaply things can be mass produced now in China or some other 3rd world country. Just saying.
  11. OCtoolguy
    I just saw this on Facebook. It looks interesting.
  12. OCtoolguy
    I wonder why nobody has picked up on them. The patent has to be nearing its end. If not already expired.
  13. OCtoolguy
    The Art of Marquetry. I mentioned it in the earlier thread about inlay. I'm away from the book right now. Edit: Here is the author of the book in question: Craig Vandall Stevens
  14. OCtoolguy
    And I'm not too far ahead of you. I consider myself a novice but I've learned a ton from the good folks here. It's the friendliest bunch I've met yet. And the best part is they're from all over. Some that hardly ever post do BEAUTIFUL work. I'm in awe.
  15. OCtoolguy
    Yes you do. It's no harder that what you are doing now. It's just a technique to be learned. If you get hold of that book I mentioned, it takes you through it step by step. You can adapt everything to the thickness of material that you want to work with. The only thing that really changes is the angle of your saw table or tilting head. You're way ahead of most on what you have already done.
  16. OCtoolguy
    Here is a picture of my first attempt at marquetry. This was done at the class I took and the material is only about .060 thick. Maybe less. Not sure. We learned shading by using hot sand. It is a lot of fun.
  17. OCtoolguy
    From what I have been taught and read, the trick to hiding the drill holes is to start the drill bit on the waste area of the saved piece and have the drill cross over at an angle to the waste area of the lower piece. Drilling the hole at the same angle as your table is tilted prior to cutting. I wish you had access to the book that I talked about..It is all explained there in pictures. By drilling straight down, you are effecting both pieces in the same place. You have to find a way to slant drill from one side to the other.
  18. OCtoolguy
    Every once in a while the gods shine on you.
  19. OCtoolguy
    Don't let that dust collection feature fool you. I have heard that it is so concentrated that it literally sucks the workpiece to the table and makes it unmoveable. Lots of folks have removed it and made their own design for vacuum hookup. After having my EX I can tell you that you won't be sorry you chose the EX. On another note, you mentioned inlay work. If you get interested in doing inlay or marquetry, there is a great book that you will want to get hold of. It's name is "The Art of Marquetry" by Craig Vandall Stevens. It explains a lot. Also, Dave Monk did a great video on inlay that you will want to watch a few times.
  20. OCtoolguy
    We had a 36 ft. Hitchhiker and a 2001 Chev CC dually. We traveled with 3 cats. I had to find a new hobby while we were out on the road and it became woodcarving. That was a passion for a good while until I found scrolling. I haven't carved in over a year now. But, I'll get back to it at some point. I envy you. We miss our travels so much but just can't afford to have a home base and a rig.
  21. OCtoolguy
    What saw are you using just so we can keep everything straight?
  22. OCtoolguy
    The Dewalt is larger than the EX21 or Pegas. With that said, if you are looking to stay small I'd probably go with either the EX16 or keep your eyes open for a used Hegner 14. They seem to be plentiful and make great travel saws. The Dewalt is quite heavy. Not small in any way. I've been a full-time RVer and after being in your shoes, so to speak, I know how space and weight figure into your travels. I think the 16" EX would be my choice.
  23. OCtoolguy
    There are a lot of old Delta machines on my local C/L. Do you folks know if the blade holders will interchange between models at all? If you can run down what saws have clamps that might interchange, I might be able to put you onto used saws near me. I just found one for $30 but I'm not sure about the interchangeability of the clamps. I realize that the Delta part numbers might be different but if one model's clamp to could be made to work in another model saw, it might open some doors of availability. Let me know and I'll try to help. https://sandiego.craigslist.org/csd/tls/d/san-diego-16-delta-scroll-saw/6986697372.html
  24. OCtoolguy
    I did the upgrade to my EX21. My saw was made in Canada prior to them being made in China/Taiwan. I think it was a very good upgrade. Probably not necessary but it did seem to take a bit of the vibration out of my saw. Not that it had that much. But, with that said, I was going to do the same upgrade to my Dewalt but then I sold it when I bought my Hawk. If it were up to me, it's one of the first things I'd do to a saw that accommodates the Pegas clamps. If you are truly thinking about that type of saw, save some money and just buy the Pegas saw up front. It has the $100 clamps on it. I have no personal experience other than the clamps and the blades but my thoughts are that they are a top-notch company and might just have a bit better quality control over their saws at the factory in Taiwan. Just my opinion. For what it's worth.
  25. OCtoolguy
    I agree Les. But the 14 is so small it's not a long stretch to operate the tension release. But the 18 & 22 require very long arms. After having an 18 I have thought back about how inconvenient it would have been to release, change hole, retension it would have been if my saw would not have had the tension release lever at the operator spot. I really wish my saw would have worked out. I am still watching for tge right deal to come along.
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