OCtoolguy

Now would be a great time to upgrade to the Pegas clamps. I just installed mine and what a difference. You can actually see where the blade goes. And they did help a lot with the vibration at different speeds. I didn't like the cost but it was an upgrade that is worth it. Good luck.

Thanks so much Tgiro. I have had that program for many years and only used it for photo viewing etc. Now, you have opened my eyes to a whole new world. I just messed around with it and it is so easy to change the colors of patterns. I also imported one of them into Inkscape and I think it is starting to become a bit more understandable. At 75 years young, I might just learn something new. Old dog new tricks.

Thank you so much for that tip. I have been using Irfanview for years but I never have messed with that setting. It makes things so much better.

I will give that all a try. Thanks for your help.

Thanks Brian. I have tried to do this with a scan that has more than one piece on it but I haven't been able to isolate each piece by itself. I know I must be doing something wrong but so far, I can't figure it out.

Intarsia was of interest to me until I realized how much sanding was involved.

Do any of you use a blade stiffener along side of your blades? I used to have one that I bought with my Forrest blade. It really did make the blade a lot more rigid. I'm trying to find one. I am using a very large washer right now.

But have you tried to do anything with them other than print and cut? I want to do some alterations to the patterns.

Oh how wonderful it would be to have more room than I need. I'd love to have the room to "sticker" my wood. I should not have ordered the wood so far in advance of working with it.

That's a great idea Kevin. I subscribe to the magazine but I have never taken any of the patterns out yet. I keep meaning to try some of them but so far they haven't tickled my fancy so to speak. No, what I"m having trouble with is scanning from one of the pattern books. This one is called Boxes, Bowls and Baskets. They don't have a pattern section in the middle. The patterns are on each different page or article. I have done one so far and I posted the pics of it. But, I had a heck of a time to get it to what I wanted. A couple of the folks here, including Travis tried working with the scans that I sent them. It seems that either my scanner wasn't doing it's job correctly or there were other problems. The one I'm working on now has two or three parts on one page and I scanned the page. Then, I tried to import it into Inkscape to be broken apart into the 3 pieces so I could work with them. It seems like it should have been simple but it proved not to be. I am going to try copying the whole page, cutting it apart with scissors and then scanning each individual piece. Maybe then I can import it and work with it. I want to be able to scale parts of it larger and then to change the color of the pattern lines to red for easier cutting. I am not one to give up on something until someone tells me that it's just impossible and I'm wasting my time. I just wish I knew these software pieces better. I would love to take a class but I've checked around and nobody is offering any. Now, If I wanted to BUY CorelDraw, I could take a class in that. I don't get it. What's the difference in teaching something that more people might be using that limiting it to only the programs that cost a bundle?

Thanks Dan. I just hate to cut it up but if I have to well, it's my book. This new laser printer I bought has a much better scanner too. I'm going to give it another try. I am also going to try what Crupeia suggested. I took some pics and I will try working with them.

Thanks Stoney. I'll have to do something like that. It's about 4 ft. long by 8 inches wide. It's not cupped too bad so I think I might be able to save it. I should have known to weight it down while storing it. But I am short of space so I just stood it up in the corner. Live and learn.

What exactly is it? More info please.

Pretty neat setup.

Now, why didn't I think of that?

Thanks Kevin. I had never heard of buying un-pigmented paint.

I know I have seen this subject commented on but it still remains a mystery to me. So, here goes......When you find a pattern in a book and can't just cut out the page, how do you go about getting the pattern onto paper to work with it? I have a great book but when I do a scan of the patterns I end up with something that I can't seem to work with in Inkscape or Gimp without a great deal of work in between. I also would love to be able to print the final patterns out in red. A few of you kind folks have tried to help me out with this but it still eludes me. Should I first do a copy of the pattern in the book and then scan it or am I wasting my time trying to get something that can be imported into whatever software program I am using. I have tried Inkscape, Gimp and Paint so far because they are free. I'm sure if I was to spend a bunch of money on something else, it may or may not work any better. Right now, I'm just very confused. I'd sure appreciate it if someone would go through all the steps of how you do it. The whole idea of figuring out what format to save the pattern in is another can of worms. JPG, PDF, SVG.....it is so confusing. I must be muddleheaded because I can usually figure this stuff out. HELP!!

My first suggestion would be spar varnish. I did a gate that way 40 years ago and it still looks good.

It's tough to imagine anybody doing anything that cheap. Maybe I should have held off on buying a laser printer. That was a LOT of stamps.

Thanks to you all. I will give the wetting a try. I have gone back and re-read Steve's explanation several times. So, now it's time to give it a try. Unfortunately, the only place I have that is flat and that long is my workbench so it will be unusable for a day or two. I have some projects that will keep me busy. I will be installing my new Pegas clamps. I look forward to using them.

Thanks Dan for that. Ha!. I forgot to check the dates. Oh well.....at least Diane got something out of it. I wonder what became of him.

I was also thinking that I could rip it into strips and flip and glue them back together. I know that it works with thicker wood. Not sure it would work with something this thin.

I just did a little bit of detective work and it appears to me that Grizzly is selling the same saw or one very much like it. Here ya go...... https://cdn0.grizzly.com/manuals/g0537_m.pdf Good luck.

I read about this subject on Steve Good's blog and he said to tune in the next day to see how it worked out. Except that he never addressed it again. What brings this up is, a couple of months ago, I bought some wood for a project but didn't get to it fast enough. It is 1/4" poplar about 8 inches wide and 48" long. It has become cupped the full length of the board. So, according to Steve, I should be able to apply damp paper towels to the cupped side and turn it face down on my work bench with weight on top of it for about 24 hours. But, since he never did the follow up, I don't know if it worked or not. Have any of you ever tried to "uncup" warped wood? Did it work? I sure hope so. I hate to see good wood go bad. I'll be awaiting your knowledgeable answers.

Double entry. Sorry.