OCtoolguy

Remember the old dot matrix printers with the fan fold paper? Not that much different if you think about it. Just need to create the feed mechanism for the inkjet/laser printer. By the way, I love my new laser printer. It is so much better than the inkjet and the ink never dries up.

Go get it. The simple fact that moving the entire motor/blade mechanism leaves do much chance for variance is enough to warrant the belt drive saw. I'd have one in a heartbeat if I had the space for it. And, if the motor goes bad, you replace it and not the whole saw. The price is certainly not an issue so go get it. Another thing that is cool about that saw Kevin is you can make an extension table for one side of it and install a router under it. Then use the t/s fence with the router. Really works out great. I'd love to be able to do that with my Dewalt but (sigh) not doable.

I just rec'd. my set of Pegas yesterday but I haven't had a chance to install them. From all the feedback I've read here and other places, it seems like a no-brainer. I'll let you know as soon as I give them a try. I'm hoping for the "less vibration" throughout the RPM range.

I would never have given that any thought. I'll bet it would be like tripling the horsepower of the saw too.

On a 10" saw?

I just found this out on the net. It comes from someone within the Freud company. An explanation of there different levels of blades. Very good to know. Here is a responce provided by a Freud tech guy a number of years ago.QUOTEAll Freud blades come from the same machines in the same manufacturing plant. We make our own micrograin carbide in numerous formulations that represent various degrees of hardness. The carbide is selected depending on the intended application (the hardest is used for laminates the softest for ripping) as are the tooth angles and tooth quantity. The steel for the blade plates is all the same grade. The brazing is all the same. The key differences between the 3 main lines of Freud blades are: The LU/LM Industrial blades have the thickest tips for the most resharpenings and are generally full kerf. We also offer the most selection of specialty blades in this line. These have the most appeal to professionals who need to get a lot of sharpenings out of a blade and to artisans who need specialty blades for their projects. The TK and Diablo lines are very similar. Both are thin kerf blades and the tip thickness is the same. The key difference is in the way we market these blades. The Diablo line has blades intended for purposes like framing, siding, decking and general home improvement and is packaged and promoted in ways that appeal to contractors and DIYers. The TK line has blades for similar purposes (as well as laminate blades) but is sold with different or no coating and different packaging and POP material to appeal more to woodworkers.Do professional woodworkers shop for blades at Home Depot? Probably some do and they can get excellent performance from a Diablo blade for a lot of their uses but with a shorter overall life (and lower cost) due to the tip thickness. Same with the TK blades at Lowe's.Why not compare a TK or Diablo blade to Forrest? Consider this analogy: Toyota cars and Lexus cars share a lot of the same components and are made by the same company. Would you compare a Camry with a BMW?We make a fourth line of blades (F400 Premier series) that is very similar to the WWII and is priced similarly. The difference between ours and Forrest's is that ours is made by computer controlled, super modern equipment and theirs is made by hand. Both methods have advantages and disadvantages but I leave the final verdict to the consumer.Charles M Freud, Inc.

That's what I'm looking at on Amazon. $36.

It was about 20 years ago that I bought my Forrest blades. I will say, when I would cut oak it could be edge glued with no other finishing. Perfect cuts. At that time, it was a war between Freud and Forrest. Now, I just want GOOD and CHEAP.

Very nice job. I never gave any thought to the springs. I just went and picked up all the stuff I need to make one like yours. Except the springs.

In my other life, I had a Delta Unisaw. BIG difference but I can't have anything like that anymore. For one thing, I only have 110 a.c. 100 amp.

I am going to be making a votive candle holder that was in a pattern book that I have. It requires me to cut 8 of the same piece using compound cutting. I'm fairly new to this so I have been practicing on some cheap wood before trying it on the more expensive red cedar. I'm getting better but doing the tall side is a bit harder when having to hold the piece tight to the table and I have been rapped a few times in the knuckles by the saw arm. So, I'm going to make a jig. But I will also try the mini clamps too. Thanks for your help.

What do you think of this blade? It's a bit cheaper. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_1?smid=A41WL3SOLJ8TZ&psc=1

I've got a couple of the mini clamps. I wonder how they would work. I'll give them a try. Thanks for the idea.

Back in the days of a good income, I bought the Forrest Woodworker II and also the dado set. I spent a lot of money foolishly back in those days. That's why I'm shopping now for the best blade for the money. Thanks for your input. I was just looking at the Freud blades on Amazon. Very highly rated but the price is under $50.

Maybe this isn't the right forum for this question but I have so much respect for all of you folks that I thought I'd ask anyway. Sometimes, you can make a cheap table saw into a much better saw with the right blade. That's the situation I find myself in. Since I have limited space I don't have a dedicated table saw. I have a portable Dewalt saw with the roll stand. It does a pretty good job. I have done all the fine tuning on it that I can. Now, I want to invest in a good blade. I'm not going to buy a Forrest blade like I used to have. It would more than likely be more costly than the entire saw itself. Anyway, with that said, I would like to get some "expert" feedback on what you folks think is the best blade for the money. I will go as high as $100 but would really like to stay around $50. So, let the games begin. WAITING...........................

I need to make one of those clamps. I did some compound cuts over the weekend and found that they are tough to hang onto so this is going to be my next build. Thanks.

As always, the voice of reason.

I'm guilty of violating this rule. A while back I posted something that was wrong for this venue. I was gently reminded by a member so I took it down and apologized. It will not happen again. I love this place and won't do anything to jeopardize that.

We love the hill country. My wife would live in Austin but I prefer the area over East by Tyler. I have an old friend who lives in Kerrville. I hope to get over that way in the next couple of years.

I love them. I haven't ruled out the shelf liner though. I think it becomes a matter of what works the best in different situations.

I bought a used Dewalt 12" compound miter saw. It's a beast. Way too much saw for what I need anymore. I suggest a 10" just because of the weight. If you are going to put it somewhere and leave it, then a 12" has a lot more capacity. If you are just using it to do mostly straight cuts to length, not much else matters. I bought the 12" thinking about doing crown molding. I forgot that we no longer had that need. I've been looking for someone to swap a 10" with. For my two cents worth, I don't think you can beat Dewalt for most mid-range priced power tools. And, I'd probably just buy through Amazon because of convenience. Anymore, I hate driving around where I live.

Thanks Terry. I agree with you and this person only had the one thing to say negatively. I had made the suggestion to someone who was looking at another saw and was going to be spending almost as much as what the H/D Excalibur is selling for so I suggested that they just go buy one there. That's when he laid it on me about it being a "clone" and all that stuff. I don't think he meant anything by it but I had to put in my two cents worth. He seems to be a very well known scroller. I checked him out and he does some beautiful work. I think he was just trying to be helpful. But wasn't. That's why I would like to get your first hand experience as you go along. It would be nice to be able to go back and sort of make him eat his words.

I have my Dewalt tilted quite a bit because it sits a bit higher but my EX is flat right now. That may change. I have no idea of how many degrees the Dewalt is tilted. I just put a block under the rear of the base that it's bolted to until it feels right.

I just checked out your FB listing and I can't wait to come and sample some of those luscious looking berries. YUM!

Terry, glad you are up and running. I want to ask a favor of you. Please keep us all updated on your saw. I had a lengthy debate on Facebook yesterday regarding the Excalibur saws that are being sold by H.D. The person was saying that because they are being made in China and not Taiwan that they are a "clone" and not to be trusted as the ones being made in Taiwan. I told this person that I had heard not a peep about the quality of the saws now being marketed under the name Excalibur. So, please do run your saw through its paces and keep us all abreast of what you find both positive and negative. I truly want to dispel anything that might be negative but at the same time, if these saws aren't up to snuff we need to know about it. Thanks, and good luck with your new love.