NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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I live in a rural area so we have no natural gas unless you count the beef cows down the road. My neighbor has what Woodmaster1 describes but it runs on propane.
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I know several power carvers and they use a Foredom. They have different packages but the price on Amazon runs $250-$350.
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Glad you made it through. Stay safe.
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I use a single coat of flat. I would worry about the glue holding on a gloss finish.
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I use a flat black a lot since it goes with most color schemes. I have used other colors like blue for water or when a customer requests something different. The color on the picture look like good to me. Nice and bright.
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Iggy's part of NC took a direct hit last night. Anyone hear from him? The eye of the storm passed about 50 miles from me at about 5:00 AM. Lucky we were on the West side of the storm so no real damage. Lost power for a nanosecond and have a messy yard but all in all made out just fine.
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Slow the saw down and use clear packing tape.
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Just want to point out that thin stock is more prone to warping and twisting. I don't think thicker stock, 1/2" - 3/4" will be that much more challenging to cut.
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If you read any of Carter Johnson's articles carefully it is important to note he use 5 Ply 1/4" poplar core plywood. The make up of the core is the key. Not all poplar plywood you buy is 5 Ply poplar core so shop carefully. https://www.columbiaforestproducts.com/library/reference-guides/grading-guide/core-types/
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I have cut a 32" door topper on a 21" saw. It was 3/4" cypress. For some areas I cut as far as I could then put the blade in backwards and continued the rest of the cut pulling the wood vs pushing. It takes a little practice. Using spiral blades will also help.
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Go out to Amazon and search for mini hinges.
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You got something other then what you ordered. I guess by mistake. I have bought a lot of baltic birch in my life and never ran across that stuff. If it is working for you great. I guess is would not work well with a laser or for a wood burning project. BTW I checked the Paxton Website and all they list is regular uncoated plywood.
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About to move from the garage to a shed
NC Scroller replied to Fedido's topic in General Scroll Sawing
You need an exhaust fan or some kind of air filter system or the saw dust in the air will clog your AC unit. -
With my ADHD I have a hard enough time remembering what I had for dinner last night let alone what size blade is in the saw or if it is sharp. My scroll saw work is varied and I use a number of types and sizes of blades. Now I do not remove them if I am going for lunch or such. Only when I know I will not be in the shop a couple days.
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What tips/tricks have you learned this year?
NC Scroller replied to Fedido's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Berta I assume you are talking about your owl project. When I make something like that I never glue the backer on period. I allow the frame to keep it in place. -
Not only do I release the tension but if I know I won't be in the shop for a couple days I usually discard the blade.
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Another vote for Denny. Great service and an American business.
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Just remember water of wood will raise the grain so it might effect the surrounding area.
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Follow all the doctors orders. Keep us posted.
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I have nothing scientific o show it but I feel I get probably twice the cut time with Pegas MGT blades as I did with same size Flying Dutchman UR. Now Pegas are more aggressive so they may not be right for all cutting.
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When I stack hardwood like walnut or maple 3 pieces are usually my limit. Some of the softer solid woods, like pine and poplar, I will stack 4 but I will not to exceed 1" total in any stacks.
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All good suggestions. I stack 4-6 pieces of 1/8 BB all the time. I also use other woods to stack cut. To make my stacks I use hot glue on all four corners. Clamp the pieces with spring clamps while appling the glue. If I have pieces with a slight bow I flip the pieces around, one up and one down, to eliminate the bow the best I can.
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I agree with Ray. If you are going to use a bit once then a HF but might be good enough but bits you use over and over you want a quality carbide blade. Consider Whiteside bits. They are made in NC.
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If you are in Louisville Woodcraft lists a store there. Also check other local lumber suppliers and millwork companies.
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Here is the link to the site Kevin mentioned but I did not see the Constitution. https://sheilalandrydesigns.com/
