I get me Danish Oil at Klingspor and it cost about $35 a gallon. I pour the oil in a roasting pan. After dipping I pour the oil back in the container until next time. Trust me a gallon goes a long way.
I also dip ornaments in Danish Oil. I normally allow them to dry over night before adding ribbon or string. Danish Oil comes in tinted versions I just use the clear or natural. If I am in a big hurray I dip them in shellac. Shellac also comes in clear or tinted. Ornaments dipped in shellac are ready to string in less then 30 minutes.
For me the cost of the blades are not worth the time and effort. My advise is to come up with a system that works for you for storing blades and then go buy new ones. Then give the mixed up bunch to someone else and let them fret (pun intended) worry about them.
Well done!!! The biggest problem I had when I did the nativity intarsia project was translating the various woods. Even Google did not know what some where. In the end I used what I had that was close in color.
Jim it would help to see a picture of what you are cutting and know what saw you are using. I cut everything from 1/8" to 1 .5" . Though I never cut a single piece of anything 1/8" . For cutting less then 1" a FDUR #5 is my go to Flying Dutchman but #3 is my go to Pegas. 1" and greater my go to is a # 5 Polar blade. I don't have have any breakage or tracking issue with these. I do use a 2/0 blade at times and yes they cut a bit different so I only go that small when I have to.
I just caution you to read the directions A true finish will dry and harden when they cure. Some things like mineral oil and boiled linseed oil (blo) are just that, oils. They do not dry or harden. They are wood treatments.
I use a lot of Baltic Birch. I usually go through 2 or 3 5'x5' sheets a year. I do not use painters tape or shelf liner on plywood. Even the best painters tape will give you some lift off. I have tried them all. Like dgman I use M77 spray and remove it with mineral spirits.
When I make things for sale time is more important then the price of materials. Each of those are made out of 9 pieces. Being so small I would not think you could stack cut more then 4. Then you have to stain and assemble. I don't think I would sell them for less then $20.
Remember there are two types of foot switches. Most scrollers use a "deadman switch" . That is the type where the saw runs as long as you hold it down. The other is a on/off switch where you push it once for on and a second time for off. You should be able to adapt that type to your stand to be triggered by your knee or even by your hand.
I agree with Kevin. Knowing state and city would help us help each other. It would also make it possible for some to meet up for workshops, swapping/trading and possible fellowship.
I would be more concerned about a 3 year old swallowing a piece vs what side is up. Though not exact, if any piece will drop through a toilet paper tube it is too small for a child under 5.
Hey Welcome Don. Speed control circuit is my best guess. Contact Bushton Manufacturing. 620-562-3557. Note saws are a side business for them so don't be discouraged if it takes a couple attempts to talk to someone.
I am not sure about rounds but the rule for air dying lumber is 1" per year. Pine normally dries and cracks quickly. I would cut them to thickness and as you cut them seal them as dgman suggested. Store on a something like a wire shelf so air will circulate all around them and out of direct sun light. GOOD LUCK.