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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. Iggly switching from mineral oil, which I dislike, to a blo or Danish Oil means you have to be very careful that you wipe off all the excess. If not I find I sometimes have "sticky spots".
  2. Most families are fine. Kids will be kids. I have a couple simple puzzles I leave out front for this purpose. Try it. You will like it. I even tell the parents they are OK for their kids to touch and learn. I am not worried if they get messed up. They cost me maybe 20 minutes of time and $1.00 in wood. The expression "mom buy me a puzzle" has worked for many sales .
  3. In the US it is a sand flee sander. https://www.rjrstudios.com
  4. Nice.... You will have to let us know if sales increase. One thing to watch. Even though your projects are lite a 6' span will sag over time. You may need a center brace.
  5. I just can't seem to find the right word to describe the beauty and grace of those works.
  6. I don't do it 100% of the time but I often drill the same size hole on both ends of the vein line. I personally like the look. Be very careful if you are stack cutting that your lines and drilling are 100% perpendicular or the end holes will be off.
  7. Bob are you seeing this with all blade types or just the spiral blades? "Blade stretch" is minimal at best and should not require any adjustment. What brand/style spirals are you using? Spiral blades are tricky to clamp up. I suspect you have blade slippage. One way to combat that is to flatten the ends before trying to clamp them.
  8. I have used them many times. Never had any issues. I think their prices are reasonable but their shipping cost I think is a bit high.
  9. From the Seyco website: http://seyco.com/blades/
  10. If you are attempting to use a mini bit (1/16th or smaller) to drill thick material you just can't chuck it up and drill. These tiny bits will flex, bend and break. What you need to do is chuck up the bit so 1/4" to 3 /8" sticks out . Drill until the chuck almost touches the wood. Then rechuck the bit to full length and finish drilling. The starter hole you made first will act as a guide to keep the drill bit straight.
  11. Brenda I also sent a message to Bob Duncan who is one of the editors at Fox Chapel. When I hear back I will let you know.
  12. And he is only charging $14 and change (USD) and that includes shipping. Most of those books cost more then $14.
  13. The give away, well in my mind, that is a illegal bootleg copy is this statement in the description. "This CD-Rom Was lovingly created By Myself And Comes On a PLAIN DISK & PLASTIC COVER".
  14. I have read and reread Ray post numerous times. Since the chuck is contacting the wood, see above quote, it is not the travel. I looked up 1/16th" drill bits on the internet. Most that list the overall length say they are 1 7/8" long so there is roughly 3/8" to spare. Tight but should be enough to gripe. So Ray step 1 would be to measure the overall bit length. If shorter then 1 7/8" buy some longer ones. Step 2 would be to measure your stock to be sure it is really 1 1/2" Step 3 insert the bit and measure that you have at least 1/32" more then 1 1/2" of bit. Step 4 lower the quill all the way and while still lowered raise the table, with the sacrificial piece so it bit makes a very small dibble in the wood. Step 5 is drill.
  15. For this to happen the air would have to be so thick with dust that he would die from dust inhalation long before it went boom.
  16. Just remember open flame heaters (natural gas, LP gas, kerosene, wood, coal,etc) create moisture. It is a byproduct of combustion. So while you raised the temperature you also raised the humidity. This can effect wood movement, drying times, etc.
  17. You do know that the end of the thumb screw is a replaceable insert. You can get the pieces from SEYCO.com (Quick Clamp Renew Kit). I think you can also get them from e-replacementparts.
  18. I open up the staples to remove the insert. I then refold the insert to get just the pattern I need. Most of the time I put the insert back in to the magazine so I find it again. I do try to maintain a spread sheet where I put the pattern name (what I call it), the designer's name, and the magazine name and issue number.
  19. Same for me. Though I have more patterns on my to-do list then I could cut in a life time.
  20. If it makes you feel better it was 14 this morning in my part of NC. My shop was a toasty 55 with my ceiling mounted heater in the lowest position.
  21. Great it worked out for you. I am not normally so luck.
  22. There are a few tricks involved. First you need the correct wood. Poplar, butternut and basswoods are some of the easiest. Pine while a soft wood has a very pronounced grain and the blade will tend to follow grains lines. Second you should wrap the block with clear packing tape after applying the pattern. Third you want to use a good quality skip tooth blade. No smaller then a #5. Reverse tooth blades are not recommended. Fourth you want to use a clamping devise such as this to hold the block together and give you support while cutting. Fifth is to make sure your blade is square with the table. Even a 1/2 degree will mess you up. Finally when you start cutting use a new blade and apply gentile pressure straight into the blade while you cut. Change blades often. Good Luck.
  23. Ray don't beat yourself up. "STUFF HAPPENS". Just a personal suggestion. Take it for what it is worth. When I find a pattern to share just include a link to the designer's website. Then there is no questioning.
  24. Did you contact the seller? They should be able to tell you.
  25. There is nothing wrong with cutting this out of 3/4" stock. Yes 1/2" will cut a little easier. Using 1/2" will also allow you to easily stack two. The Faith plaque is 3/4" maple with an 1/8" Baltic Birch backer.
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