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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. I can't say that this never happens to me but it is very rare. I prep the wood by sanding up to 220 grit. Then I wipe off all the dust and residue by rubbing the wood down with a piece of clean dry paper towel. If I do have some lifting I stop immediately and apply scotch tape.
  2. Intarsia is where staying on the line is most critical. With most other scrolling no one knows where the lines where when the pattern is removed. Just relax and cut.
  3. I have cut several including the Amazing Grace multi piece one. I cut mine out of 1/2" maple. I think I used a # 3 Pegas. On that design I would also choose 1/2" -3/4" maple and start on the letters. But that is just me. If I am working on one where I would have to use different size blades l cut the parts the need the smallest blades first.
  4. Some time ago I made a kinda cheat sheet for common reductions and enlargements so I would have it when I needed it. Of course I can't seem to find it at the moment. Must be next to the spare set of keys I also can't presently find.
  5. This is what I do and I hated and did terrible in math. First covert fractions to decimals. So 1 7/8" = 1.875". 1 1/2" = 1 .5. So you divide 1.5 by 1.875 and you get .8. That means if you copy the original at 80% it will fit 1.5" stock.
  6. Keep in mind that 1 7/8" is just a suggestion. You can reduce the pattern to use small stock to accommodate your equipment. Just reduce all 4 sections the same. With these large compounds wood choice is very critical. I normally use basswood, poplar or butternut for my bigger compounds. I personally do not like pine. Though it is softwood the uneven grain can present a real challenge.
  7. In the past I have done several test cuts for Sue Mey. She has several several designs that you make 1/4 at a time and glue up. They are a fun challenge and not really much harder then doing any other compound cutting. I will try to find some pictures.
  8. The blades with the notch are defective and will all break. From what I have read on various sites D and D pulled all the bad blades so that is why they were out of stock. They also replaced any defective blades for buyers who contacted them. Other sellers did not and it seems from your post some sellers are still selling the bad blades.
  9. Jim, please forgive me if I missed it but which 3 do you prefer?
  10. Custom made urns will cost hundreds of dollars. Using exotic woods and inlays you might jack it up into four figures. Based on your dimensions I am guessing wood cost less the $25. If you are charging for your time I would not go less then $20 an hour unless they are very good friends.
  11. I have built several urns and contributed to the construction of a couple more. They were all rectangular boxes. The ones that were decorated with an inlay had the inlay either on top or front panel with most electing to display on the front panel. I believe Sheila Landry has a walleye design.
  12. This is the one I have and love it. Had it about 6 years. Believe it was about $80 back then. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004J1B0BO?psc=1
  13. It is not really hard. Just take it slow and easy. Having a magnetic tray to place parts is very useful. It really saves the knees when crawling around the shop floor looking for dropped screws.
  14. Will be real interesting to see how Bear Woods handles the defected blades. Sorry you are going through all this pain.
  15. Yes the Fox Chapel forum is the SSWC one. NCWW (NCwoodworker.net) is a wood worker forum, all types of woodworking, that is open to any woodworker in NC or neighboring states.
  16. Also point him to the different woodworking forums like SSV, NCWW and the Fox Chapel forum.
  17. For some of us who sell (whether a real business or just a self supporting hobby) or want to make a real heirloom gift at any cost it is sometimes hard to remember that $10 worth of wood is a lot of money for some people. I often times struggle with how to reply to some comments like surfaced in this thread because I am BLESSED and I don't have to count my pennies. Just saying.
  18. I am not really an Olsen fan. Had a couple bad experiences. Now I use mostly Pegas (Modified Geometry) and Flying Dutchman (Ultra Reverse). I also use FD Polar blades for compound cutting. Because I find the Pegas more aggressive then Flying Dutchman I drop down a size. In other words my "go to blade" in Flying Dutchman is a #5 and in Pegas it is a #3. When cutting delicate areas I use the Flying Dutchman. For attaching my patterns I only use 3M Super 77 and I have never had a lift off issue. I have tried other spray glues and glue sticks , 3M products and other brands, but and only the 3M Super 77 has not let me down. Rockytime, though I do 100's of different projects a year I never cut less then 3 pieces of 1/8" Baltic birch at a time. I find that 1 or even 2 pieces do not offer enough resistance thus the blade cuts too easily and makes it harder to control.
  19. I think what Grizz is referring to is called hardboard. A 4'x8' sheet is under $11.00. It also makes a good covering for a work bench/table. https://www.homedepot.com/p/1-8-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Eucalyptus-White-Hardboard-447562/204727075
  20. I am not on the same page as John. When I first got my Dewalt I bottom fed because that was how my old Dremel saw worked. Fine for some stuff but eventually I started doing more and larger fret work where bottom feeding did not cut it. So I went out and spent 30 minutes learning the feel required to hook the bottom of the blade. To this day I kick myself for waiting so long to switch to top feed.
  21. To bad you are so far away. I have a VS 226 Ultra I would give you a super deal on.
  22. I only do two shows a year and have been doing them both for 8+ years. I do VERY well in each. Income was up. Rough guess is my income was up at least 10% from 2017. It is only a hobby for me.
  23. Recalls are typically for serious health or safety issues. So unless there are electrically issues that might cause a fire or electric shock I doubt we will ever see a scroll saw recall.
  24. Biggest problem I have seen with drilling on a drill press is most people turn the drill press on and then proceed to punch the bit through the wood. The second biggest issue is using dull bits. So to drill properly and have nice clean holes the bit rotation should fast, the feed rate slow and use a backer board and a clean sharp bit.
  25. It is copyrighted. That usually means it is protected for like 99 years.
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