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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. Nice. Using a smaller spiral (#1 or 2/0) would reduce sanding and handle wood that thick. So would a reverse tooth flat blade.
  2. With my ADHD my head would explode if I drilled all the holes first.
  3. Water based poly that is used on floors.
  4. No not plywood. If you are going to make the effort go with real wood. Good luck. Love to see the results.
  5. I much rather be cutting. I have dipped, sprayed, wiped and brushed. There is no perfect method method or finish for everything.
  6. Cedar is brittle and heat makes it worse. Reduce your saw speed. Forget pine. Because of grain patterns it is really not a great compound cut wood. Try poplar or even basswood if available.
  7. I have never had an issue cutting one side vs another. Though in the above design I would properly cut the complex side first. What is most important when cutting projects like these is keeping ALL the pieces in place until you have cut everything. For my compound pieces like above I always piece the piece in a holder. It keeps it together and provides stability and areas to gripe to prevent your hand from getting hit on the down stoke. After cutting the one profile I would wrap with clear tape or even "scotch tape" before cutting the other profile.
  8. Be careful with any brand, type, color painters tape on plywood. Even the clear shelf paper. They all remove fibers when you peel it off.
  9. Been a push couple weeks preparing for my show on the 3rd. Hope you like them:
  10. Do you have the piece? If so reattach with a glue that dried clear. If not you will need to run it through a drum type sander to get below the chunk. SORRY.
  11. Barbara can you provide a picture of your issue. The box uses finger joints. When cutting them I recommend NOT stack cutting and make sure to check your blade to table to be sure they are square.
  12. The way I look at it is if you do not make a mistake once in a while you are not learning. Most new things have a learning curve. Also if you walk a way from scrolling for an extended period it does take some recovery time to relearn the feel.
  13. My thoughts and prayers are with his family and friends.
  14. Congrats..... Hey post a picture of you booth so we can see your works.
  15. If it is sunny and above 60 I will set pieces out in the sun for an hour or so.
  16. I believe they will make you wait 2 weeks before allowing a claim. Sorry.
  17. Did you try Tague Lumber? Also try http://www.philadelphiawoodworks.com/lumber_yard_photos/
  18. We might see that some day. The Pegas holders have only been around for a year. I doubt the entry level saws will switch but I can see Seyco and similar saws switching.
  19. They are nice.
  20. Good job.
  21. Best of luck. Let us know what is not and what is not.
  22. I feel it relaxing and at the same time challenging.
  23. I have also used mine on the right BUT I have what they call a right tilt saw. My understanding is the fense should be in the opposite side that the band tilts.
  24. I agree that White Oak will fare better then Red Oak. What concerns me is you choice of backer. Baltic Birch, even painted will not hold up. Get some exterior plywood or even a thin piece of White Oak.
  25. I actually bought a Klingspor brand blade for my miter saw and really saw (no pun) a big difference. Klingspor brand blades are made in Italy where I believe the Freud blade is made. The right blade in the right tool can be amazing.
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