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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. Epoxy.
  2. In the future you can try gpshardwoods.com as well as hardwoodstore.com
  3. Butt 1/8" Baltic Birch is really what you should use. Anything but MDF. I truly understand living in a rural area. Are there larger towns with a couple hours? If so see if there are any cabinet stores there. Many use Baltic Birch and they will know the suppliers. They may be willing to sell you a sheet or order one for you the next time they get a supply. When I need to get mine the place is 1 1/2 hours away. I take the Mrs. and we do some other shopping in town and have a nice lunch out. A win / win and get brownie points. As the cost of BB over MDF I get between 100 -150 ornaments out of a 5x5 piece of BB which I sell for between $5 and $8 each. Do the math.
  4. Not mine. Don't need any more tools. https://myrtlebeach.craigslist.org/tls/d/hawk-scroll-saw/6570200609.html
  5. You can also use a fabric dye like Rit brand.
  6. I agree with Dan.
  7. Wooden Teddy Bear is the exclusive supplier /wholesaler for the U.S. and I believe Canada. In other words all sellers in the U.S. Gets their blades from Wooden Teddy Bear. They also sell direct to the public through the Wooden Teddy Bear and Mike's Workshop web site.
  8. I buy mine from Klingspor. I am lucky that I can drive to a Klingspor store and I belong to a wood working club that gets a small discount. I use mine a lot on hardwood puzzle pieces. I just "soften" the edges. I also like them for doing the same on hardwood ornaments and compound cut items. I do not use it on plywood.
  9. I don't think I have ever seen a Lowes or HD that did not have poplar but I have not been in every one. I know then my folks lived in Florida the ones in the Tampa area carried it. "White wood" is spruce or fir. It is in the same family as the various pines.
  10. Poplar is pretty cheap and is an excellent wood for puzzles. It also takes paint and stain much better then pine. It is also available just about everywhere (Lowe's, Home Depot, lumber yards).
  11. Unless you really glob the paint on it won't be an issue. What can be a issue is water based paints raise the grain and will even cause some swelling. After the first cost of water based paint dries, over night, sand all surfaces lightly with 220 grit sandpaper.
  12. You can tighten the pivot screw with out damage to the saw. Tighten 1/4 turn, try it, repeat until feels the way you want. Just know that if it stays up on its own it is too tight.
  13. We all do. It is part of learning. I am never quick to throwing out my mistakes. One they act as a reminder of what not to do. Second I have actually saved a couple by changing the design or after learning new tricks from others or when my skills improved.
  14. You really do not want or need to do BLO and lacquer if you are painting it. I would apply shellac (sanding sealer) if you are using water based paint. This will prevent the water in the paint from causing the wood to swell.
  15. Like Kevin I use mostly mid range blades ( 1, 3, 5). The others are good to have when needed. I find the MGB blades a bit more aggressive then my FD blades so I use the MGB blades more on harwood and the FD blades more on plywood especially if there are delicate sections.
  16. Charlie used a tumbler to get the fuzzies off his segmented bowl pieces before glue up.
  17. You got ripped off. I would take it back and get a refund or have them replace it with the proper wood.
  18. I make my frames as needed. I do cut and mill (cut to width, dado and router) my own frame wood vs buying molding to use. When I setup I do mill extra stock to make several.
  19. For me: - I use 1/4" Baltic Birch for my wood. - I use 3M77 for my glue. I apply to both the wood and paper. - I spray the puzzle with rattle can shellac before cutting.
  20. Lowes sells them too. As does some hardware and paint stores.
  21. If you are using an oil based stain or finish they contain MS already so there is no need to wait. If using alcohol or water based paint, stain or finish wait 24 hours.
  22. It is going to happen with tape and even clear shelf paper. It shows up more with tape. While nothing is 100% there are a couple tricks that might help. - Not all painters tape are the same. You want the clean release tape. It is normally more expensive. - The less time the tape is on the wood the better. No more then a couple days. - There is grain pattern on wood even plywood. When applying tape try to go across the grain and not with it. Remove the same way. - When removing tape or shelf paper peel slowly and at a 45 degree angle.
  23. I do as many others and try to find an intersection of two veins. If the veins are close enough I might create my own intersection. Remember know one will ever know after you remove the pattern. It will really depend on the pattern but I have also drilled pilot holes on both ends of a vein to give a balanced look. Be creative.
  24. Ray basically the item is cut out of a single block of wood. Usually the blocks run 3/4" x 3/4" to 1.5" x 1.5" You apply the pattern on two sides. You cut one side then flip 90 degrees and cut the other side. The block then pulls apart and you are left with the finished piece in the middle. Check this: https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=compound+cutting+scroll+saw+tutorial&view=detail&mid=5AB27F37E843625023E75AB27F37E843625023E7&FORM=VIRE
  25. Charley that came out great. The detail is amazing.
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