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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. Nice job. My recommendations to you are skip the blue tape. Blue tape, even the expensive ones will lift fibers. Especially on cheap plywood. Glue your pattern directly to the wood with a spray adhesive like 3M Super 77. Also always cut the delicate pieces first while there is plenty of supporting wood around it.
  2. Paul the tool is spring loaded. It works fairly well on soft woods like pine and poplar. Not so must with harder woods like oak and maple. On the harder woods a gentle tap with a wooden mallet helps. The best feature of the tool is that the tool is magnetic. The v nail is held in a groove (one at a time) so need for pliers or smashed fingers.
  3. Several standings down to 180 or 220 grit pre cutting. Light touch up sanding with 220 or 320 after.
  4. I use a v-nail tool I got from Lee Valley: http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=52113&cat=1,43293,52113 To square up my frames I use a Merle Clamp: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-9012-Woodworking-Exclusive-Multi-Corner/dp/B000FNKXIG
  5. Like the others I get my Flying Dutchman and Olson blades from Wooden Teddy Bear. Lately I have been using more and more Pegsas modified geometry blades. I get them from D&D blades online. Both places allow you to mix sizes to take advantage of by the gross pricing.
  6. You can also use shellac that comes in a regular can. Mixed 50/50 with DNA (denatured alcohol) projects can be dipped or brushed without a lot of fumes.
  7. You are getting there. Over time you will get a feel for how many to stack. It will vary based on the materials and pattern.
  8. No matter what you have read or heard it is impossible to cut in a scroll saw without applying pressure. When I teach or demonstrate to adults I actually put my finger on a running #5 blade to show how safe scrolling is. You have to develop a "feel" on how much downward and forward pressure to use. Think of it in terms of feeding the wood into the blade. Enough to cut but not enough to bend the blade from 90 degrees.
  9. I use 1/4" inch pan head screws that I get from my local Ave Hardware to attach D ring hangers. I think the screws are #6. https://smile.amazon.com/HomeDone-Picture-Hangers-100-Pack-Screws/dp/B01FYEMEEG/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519337886&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=d+hangers&psc=1
  10. I almost never use painter tape and only use packing tape over patterns when working with hard woods (maple, cherry, ash, walnut,.....). I attach my pattern directly to the wood with 3M Super 77. I remove my pattern with mineral spirits. Since I use Danish Oil or Tung Oil finish I can remove the pattern and apply finish immediately since those products contain mineral spirits. Since I make 100's of items each year to sell this is the process that works for me. The only time I had a lift off issue with packing tape was when I attempted to use a no name brand.
  11. I never put tape or liner on plywood because of the potential on lift off of splinters. I learned the hard way. I attach directly to the wood with 3M Super 77 and remove with mineral spirits.
  12. I agree that the beach items are better as non-puzzles. I prefer the animals as puzzles.
  13. Wow...2018 has been rough. Sending prayers.
  14. 99% sure it is poplar. No matter the type wood free wood is always great.
  15. Another "dead man" type switch user.
  16. Just picked up 4 rolls of the Duck brand from the closest Wal-Mart.
  17. Woodenteddybearonline.com for Flying Dutchman blades Dndsawbladesonline.com for Pegas blades
  18. Ed please post a link. I just checked Amazon and the cheapest I see is $13.00.
  19. Every one grows at different speeds. I can tell you most of us are way to critical of our own work. Let me suggest something. A #5 blade is too big and aggressive for a single piece of 1/8 th material. I would use a #1 blade.
  20. I hate to be negative but I think the jury is still out. While it is called an EXCALIBUR and looks like one I hope it is of equal or better quality then the old ones. I own and love my EXCALIBUR so I hope the answer is yes.
  21. For a newbie there is nothing to be ashamed of. We have all been there. Practice practice practice will cure 90%. Switching to a reverse tooth blade will help with a lot of your fuzzies. For sanding off fuzzies I like one of these. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/fs36240/
  22. Hey Scott who did you use for your LLC or did you handle it all your shelf? Feel free to message me if you don't want to give out names.
  23. Like Denny and Paul I use the Mac Mop from Klingspor that I have mounted on an old mini lathe. While I use it for many projects I like it best for "softening" the edges on puzzle pieces.
  24. For sure it is not red oak. I do believe it might be a form of mahogany. I just scored a bunch of mahogany from a friend who's company is remodel a large lawyers office. I got 21 linear feet of 1 x 6 1/2" base board and 23 linear feet of 1 x 5 1/2" base board. Here is a picture.
  25. Should be fixed.
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