NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Took me a little to see what you wanted to achieve. I am a bit slow. If there were eyes I think I seen it sooner. Over the years I have moved away from glossary finishes. I now use semi gloss or satin. Also the lower gloss finishes hide the defects (sanding marks, dents and dings) better.
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For my pine bird houses I use scraps of 2x4 material. Just make sure you selection portions with no knots. While some knots give it character most will fall apart after cutting. DAMHIKIT.
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I am very impressed. Some of those woods are very hard and difficult to cut. Excellent job. I have cut a 100 or so. Dianna has Christmas birdhouse patterns as well. In my neck of the woods I get $6.00 a piece. I tried sell for $10 but all I got was compliments. Another thing you can do with the plain wood (poplar and pine) is to "pickle" them. That is a technique where you paint them with thinned latex paint and then immediately wipe the paint off before it dries. I use white or a light gray mostly but any color will do. With white or light gray it makes it look like old weathered barn wood.
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No problem unless you are posting them to sell.
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For transport and draw storage I used some 1" pvc pipe with caps. The bottom cap I glued and the top slides on. On my bench I have a piece of 2x4 about 10" long. I drilled holes in it and used 1" pvc standing vertically. Sorry no pictures at the moment.
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Pictures?
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Recent American Woodworker on PBS-Scrolling
NC Scroller replied to EarltheScroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Great viewing. -
LOVE IT!!!!
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Input requested on my choice of blades
NC Scroller replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Barbara from what you describe I think you started with a new sharp blade and finished with a dull blade. When a blade get dull we all tend to push our wood instead of feeding our wood. This pushing caused the blade to bend and flex. On the top surface the cut appears straight and vertical but on the bottom the cut is on an angle and may even fall into another cut area. The best advise I have is to change blades like someone else is paying for them. -
Wayne, I have a good friend that makes clocks like this. In fact that is about all he makes. They are absolutely beautiful. He does sell them or should I say attempts to sell them. They do not sell well and when he does sell one he gets very little considering how much time and effort he puts in it. But he keeps at it because he loves to make them. Now he is in Hickory, NC. Not a craft /tourist hot spot. Where you live has a lot do with the ability to sell and how much you can get.
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Terry I like the contrasting woods. Unless the walnut base had a lot of sap wood making the base and bike all the same would take away from the bike. Nice job.
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I have seen all forms and formulas of home brews and used a few such as these. Poly - BLO - MS Poly - Tung Oil (Pure) - MS Poly - MS While it is cheaper to make most of these vs buying a pre-made, I have found they do not store well and time consuming if you plan to make a batch for one or two projects.
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Input requested on my choice of blades
NC Scroller replied to Iguanadon's topic in General Scroll Sawing
My blade of choice would be a #7 reverse tooth for the outside and a #5 reverse tooth for the inside pieces. This works best for me. As you know there is a trade off in blade sizes. The larger blades tend to flex less but cut a wider kerf. The smaller blades just to opposite. If you are happy with your choices stay with them but never be afraid to experiment especially when using different woods or different thicknesses. -
I just read this post on another forum: "I've just learned Mike Moorlach (The Flying Dutchman) has passed away at age 85 after several days with hospice. He will be sorely missed in the scrolling community. He was such a fountain of knowledge and good will. RIP Mike my friend." Mike was none other then the Mike of Mike's Workshop the home for Flying Dutchman blades. RIP my friend.
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If you are interested in doing a clock look at the late Dirk Boelman's site. His wife Karen is still doing the business. They have many clock options. http://theartfactory.com/ I have a good friend that makes clocks and he swears by Dirk's. One word of caution. MANY clocks require various thickness of woods. A planner or drum sander are important tools to have in your shop if you plan to be a clock maker. A band saw to do resawing is also a nice to have.
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Scott from one Scott to an another and from one NC resident to another well done. While Poplar is easy to cut it dents easy. That is a draw back. For my puzzles I also like to use Ash, Walnut, and soft Maple. They are pretty easy to cut and do not dent up as easy. You are not very far from Wilmington. You can get all those woods at Anchor Harwoods. http://anchorhardwoods.com/
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I like to prefinish my overlay using clear Danish oil or Defoil finish. Both dry hard unlike Boiled Linseed Oil or Mineral Oil which never harden. Using Titebond II I apply overlays to painted backings all the time. Before I apply glue, with the roller, I lightly rough up the back of the overlay with 100 or 120 grit sand paper. After gluing I clamp or press the pieces together for at least 6 hours. Also make sure the painted backing is well dry. I normally wait 24 hours after painting. Using this process I have never had a overlay come off.
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I use Titebond II. I apply it with a foam roller. I get little or no squeeze out since I only have a thin layer.
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3 of my cuttings featured in the latest Sue Mey e-zine
NC Scroller posted a topic in Bragging Rights
Sue Mey has featured three more of the projects I have test cut for her in the May addition of her e-zine. As most of you know I love to compound cut. In this issue I made the cake server, paint brush holder and the smart phone / kindle holder. Anyone looking for tips and advise in cutting these feel free to contact. Glad to help.
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We all make mistakes. So so woodworker leave them and hope to get by. Good woodworkers can fix their mistakes. Great woodworkers can fix their mistakes and learn from their mistakes. I think you qualify for the latter
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I am NOT a lawyer but if the copyright owner put the original in trash in a public place they in fact gave up all their claims and rights. The current holder is legal owner.
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2" is about the max any scrollsaw can cut. Even with that said not all brands can cut 2". To be safe I would keep the thickness between 1" and 1.5". Like Roly I also recommend and Excalibur EX-21. What you failed to ask about are the most important thing. That being the blades. For some thing like that I would recommend either the Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse or the Olson PGT blades in either a size 5 (detailed parts) and size 7 (less detailed parts). Good luck and welcome to the site.
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PM me your email ID and I will forward it to you.
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Congrats Denny. I have like wise worked with Sue and had some of my work featured. I know you are floating on air.
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Need help finding blades since Bens closed
NC Scroller replied to nrscroller's topic in General Scroll Sawing
Mike's is now owned by Wooden Teddy Bear though the Mike's web site is still on-line. The sell Flying Dutchman and Olson Blades. Flying Dutchman does make an excellent puzzle which are ultra sharp and ultra fine. I use them on my flat picture puzzles. I find them too fine for the thicker (1/2" and up) stand up puzzles. For those I use a FD Ultra Reverse in a #1 or #3 depending on the wood.
