NC Scroller

I agree with Len. Olson PGT (Precision Ground Tooth) blades have pointed ends like that.

Not a dumb question at all. The #3/0 is much thinner than a #3 and the #3/0 has more teeth per inch. The #3/0 has 38 teeth per inch and the diameter is 0.024. The #3 has 27 teeth per inch and the diameter is 0.035.

Mods feel free to delete if this violates any rules. As many know the SSW forum has been a disaster since they switched platforms late last summer. Well they finally have the attention of the developers. What they need is the help of some users who are having issues still. Please see the request made yesterday. "Finally, it appears VB is engaged and willing to look at our issue. The problem is, their admin accounts, and any new test accounts they use won't work because those accounts are not affected by this issue. So, that said, we need someone (or a few folks) to step up and offer to let VB reset your password, and test with your account. You will have that account returned to you. You are a good candidate if you transitioned over with the site but have never been able to post a picture. If you are willing to step up and take one for the team, please send the name of your "broken" account to Shane at: [email protected] along with your approval to change the password and use it to test this issue. Please reply here if you have taken that step. Thanks for your Help!!!!"

About time

Rick I have a planer and would be happy to do it for you. Where in NC are you? Seem to recall you are in the western part of NC. I am also a member of NCWW so I know wood workers all over the state. If you are to far away from me I might be able to hook you up with a WW closer to where you live.

Beautiful work Rusty. Spiral blades will never me my go to blades but at times they are the best option and when they are the best option I will use them. People, especially newbies need to understand there is no one size fits all when it comes to scrolling and scroll saw blades. The right blade type and size for one project might not be the right choice for others. You have to let the wood and the project dictate what blades to use. Don't be afraid to experiment. Also don't be afraid to change size and style blades for different parts of your project. On that design and the wood you used I would have used the small spirals for some parts of it and FD UR #1 or #3 for other parts.

Even if the image is copyright does not mean you can't make a pattern or even cut the project. You can even post a picture of the finished project here. What you can't do is make a pattern to share here or elsewhere or to sell. You also can't make the project to sell. You can only make it for personal use. That includes making it as a gift. BTW I am not a lawyer.

Since it is humming I think you can rule out the switch, fuse, or brushes. Sounds like a motor issue. I recommend you take it back.

Typically most folks use 4-5 different sizes 95% of the time. I am not sure why you are looking at 20 individual size bits and not a set.

I am guessing that 90% of your issue is the plywood. If I was a betting man I would say you got the plywood at Lowes or Home Depot. The quality of the plywood there, while good for some purposes, is not well suited for scrolling. If there is a real lumber yard in your area see if they have or can get BALTIC birch plywood. If no lumber yard try a place like Sloans Woodshop. There is a very big difference between cheap birch plywood and Baltic Birch plywood. You want quality or grade of B/BB or BB/BB. See the link below. http://www.woodworkerssource.com/blog/tips-tricks/your-ultimate-guide-to-baltic-birch-plywood-why-its-better-when-to-use-it/

One very nice feature with Windows 10 is it is fairly simple to backup data to the "Cloud". You can even set it up to do it automatically for all folders or select folders. Either do that or invest in a backup drive. Windows is free up to a point (you have to store a lot to hit that point) and backup drives are cheap ($50-$75 USD).

Denny welcome. Like you I frequent both forums. There is nothing wrong with that. My handle is the same on both.

Welcome Bill. I recognize your picture. You sure have not changed much.

To be successful you really need a number of different size blades. For me and the type work I do my go to size is a #5 but I have blades from #2/0 to #9. The problem with bigger teeth is they will cut more aggressively and could break delicate areas in your project. The larger teeth blades also do not make tight turns as well as a smaller tooth blade.

http://www.scrollsawgoodies.com/shop/ And yes he has some puzzles.

Synthetic grease works the best. Really any brand will do. I use a synthetic marine grease made by AMSOIL because I boat and that was what the mechanic recommended.

It might be the saw more then the blades. What kinda saw do you have? Some saws handle spiral blades better then others. Some folks have had luck "flattening" the end with a small hammer (8oz -12oz). Don't attempt to flatten them on wood. Flatten them on metal like the top of a vise.

You have gotten some great tips here. The only thing I do differently is I like to run my saw at full speed unless I can cutting tiny delicate areas. I find running the saw at full speed deduces the tendency to push the wood.

Like Dan I have used woodworkingparts.com for many years My only gripe is their shipping costs of kinda steep (I am very cheap) in my opinion so make sure you order all the items you need one shot.

Welcome Steve. I am one of those with the same handle on both sites.

Run...Do not walk to you trash can and toss them. Stick with quality blades such as Flying Dutchman or Olson. Both are available through Wooden Teddy Bear and they ship to Canada.

Yes I do wax and yes the top of the EX does mark up easy but it does not have any negative effects I can tell. I apply my wax using nylon steel wool like pads. Klingspor makes them. For me they work far better then steel wool. One note. Before I wax I clean the surface using one piece of a pad and mineral spirits. http://www.woodworkingshop.com/product/nw06216/

While turning did you accidently put a lot of sideward pressure and actually push the blade to touch the side on the insert hole. There is enough flex and play in the blade that it can and will happen if not careful.

Dave are you sure it was Mahogany. There are lots of woods passed off as Mahogany. Real Mahogany is reddish brown. It is smooth grain and should cut like butter.

Also not a lawyer. If you are making finished product based on the Creative Woodworks design you are OK. Just do not mass produce them. Making a handful or even a couple dozen for your craft show inventory is not mass producing them. Making thousand is mass producing them The only except is if the article specifically stated you can not make items for sale based on that particular design. You can not make, sell or otherwise distribute copies of the original design.