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NC Scroller

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Everything posted by NC Scroller

  1. I see no void. If asked by the original designer I would say it was a "design change". Only you and the original designer know about the piece. I have attempted to fix things like that in the past and only made matters worse. Just leave it be. As to a finish I would spray with a satin or semi gloss poly.
  2. I get mine at Lowes since that is where I have found the best price. I have seen it in Walmart, Staples, and even Ace Hardware. You can get through Amazon as well.
  3. It does not hold as well as M-77. I have experienced some lift off using it. To help prevent lift off you MUST apply the pattern immediately to the wood. Waiting even a minute it looses a lot of it's tack.
  4. Hi Rolf.....Welcome to the Village.
  5. I also have used BLO to "pop" the grain. Danish Oil, tung oil are blends that contain BLO so they will also "pop" but not as much as BLO alone. I always mix BLO 50/50 with mineral spirits. Lucky2 makes a great point. BLO whether straight from the can takes a long time to dry. Mixed 50/50 I would wait 2-3 days before doing anything with the piece. Straight from the can I would wait 5-7 days. You asked about if you should apply before adding your backing and the answer is yes. I often top coat BLO with spray can Poly.
  6. If there is no glass a typical frame will handle 1/4" plus a thinner backer board. If you have access to a router and miter saw you can make your own frames. Then you could use two pieces of 1/4".
  7. I had a friend do this once with his Type 1. They took his table off his machine and the sticker off his motor and stuck it on a Type 2. Worthless piece of junk Type 2.
  8. Love your display stand. Is it your own design or did you find a plan?
  9. Good job on the pricing. That is what I sell my like items for. Next time you get to Anchor Hardwoods pick up some walnut. People like choices. Though you might pay $20 for a piece of walnut you will get 10+ puzzles. Not a bad ROI.
  10. Congrats Scott. Now you have more money for more wood, blades, etc. If you have a smart phone check into a square or other credit card devices. They are free and having one has boosted my sales a good 15%. Can I ask what you are charging? A lot of rookies tend to under value their work.
  11. I use #5 and #7 Polar blades on my compound birdhouses. I put clear packing tape on all four sides of the block and I have my saw running at full speed . One point I want to bring up. You are using glued up lumber. The glue could be your problem. Most glues are harder then the surrounding wood and thus will lead to added fiction and rapid dulling of the blades. The same problem happens with plywood.
  12. Here is tip. For the perches I use pieces of bamboo skewers the wife bought an Walmart. The skewers are 12" long and come in a bag of 100 for $2.00 and fit perfectly in the 1/8th inch hole . Figuring each perch is an 1" long you get 1,200 perches (less than 1 cent a piece) from a bag.
  13. I use this sanding sponge to clean the oil off my blades.
  14. Ike it could be the holder and not the screw. Over tightening will bend or strip out the holder which is just aluminum. The screw is steel. That is what I would look at.
  15. While not often I have painted backers with both latex and acrylic paints (non black) and had no issues with applying a clear rattle can spray after final assembly. I have used spray can lacquer, poly, and shellac. I normally wait two full days or longer for the paint to dry before assembly. Weather permitting I will even put them in the sun for a couple hours to help the drying process.
  16. If you plan to use a table saw, jig saw or circular saw to break down sheet good invest in blades made to cut sheet goods (plywood). These blades have more teeth, smaller teeth and less pitch. These blades reduce the waste from tear out and splintering. Most table and circular saw come with a general purpose blade. OK to cut 2x4 but too aggressive to cut plywood cleanly especially when you cut across the grain.
  17. Mineral oil is your best bet. Will cost you about $1.25 a pint at the dollar store.
  18. If it was me I would move my scroll saws myself. That goes for any other easily damaged machines. Your mover. Will not likely move wood, stains, finishes, and other flammable items.
  19. Scott I used something similar in my garage shop for several years. It won't keep you at 70 but it will make it bearable to work. Now I have a window unit which really does a better job. Spend the $40 and get the bigger unit. BTW check Craigslist as these pop up from time to time. Also the other week I saw a used Hegner on Craigslist out your way.
  20. How far? Will you be able to take multiple trips? Will you have to store your tools or will they be setup immediately at the new location?
  21. Wow I am impressed with the progress. Nice work. One more suggestion. Use Polar or other skip tooth blades and not reverse tooth blades. With the thicker material you want to clear the saw dust quickly and the reverse teeth actually prevent that.
  22. The best way to deal with cupping is to inspect wood before you buy it. Look at the end grain and select wood where the grow rings are vertical or as close to vertical as possible. If the rings tend to run side to side leave it. Nothing will help or fix those.
  23. When I need one I use a small piece of aluminum flashing (roughly 6" square) held down with two sided tape.
  24. As requested. Here is a bonus tip at no extra charge. Add a small strip of sand paper to the inside of the clamp. Any grit will do. I use M77 spray to attach mine. It makes the clamp hold better and the sand paper will last for thousands of projects.
  25. If you are cutting Diana Thompson's bird house patterns the standard size wood block is 1 1/4" x 1 1/4". Bigger blocks will make it harder to cut. I also made a jig to help. It is simple to make and holds the blocks better than fingers or clamps.
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