NC Scroller
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Everything posted by NC Scroller
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Jack, I would not say I work for Sue. To me that implies a paid gig. I think of it more on the lines of helping a friend. Compound cutting is my favorite scrolling technique. I enjoy the challenges and I do end up with some free patterns so in my book it is a win - win. I just started doing this a few months back.
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Steve that vase is designed and drilled for a "test tube". The size of which is 5 7/8" x 11/16" Dia. A 3/4" fortsner bit was required.
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On the Fox Chapel site the CD is called an archive. Anyway the fellow link takes you to where you can buy the archive CD's. http://www.foxchapelpublishing.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=archive NOTE: that web page also has the archive CD for their carving magazine.
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I get SSW&C. While I find there maybe be an issue from time to time that I find nothing of interest other issues have several projects I like. For me I find in the long run it cheaper to subscribe then buy single issues. Another reason for me to subscribe is the subscription copy is at my home 3-4 weeks earlier than they are in the stores. To me that is very important especially since I do a couple of very profitable Christmas craft fairs.
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Recently finished this test cut for Sue. I think this was one of the most challenging I have completed to date and I have done over 20 for her. This was made from Ash. I used 1 7/8" stock (8/4 planed down). Each vase are actually cut from 4 pieces and then glued and drilled. I used clear Danish oil as a finish. Thanks for looking.
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I hate to give you bad news but Baltic birch is NOT an exterior product. It is for interior use only If it is exposed to the weather it will not last. I am not talking years. I am talking a few months at best. I would cut it out of two pieces of red cedar using one as the backing colored or stained or painted to give contrast.
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Try applying beeswax to the bit before starting to drill. Then slow the drill speed and feed rates way down.
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As a temp measure try some Loctite BLUE. The blue Loctite is not permanent but helps where vibration is a problem.
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I have used a lot of cypress. As Paul said it turns a nice silver gray color. For my outdoor projects I like to use a transparent deck sealer/water proofer. I seal my deck every few years and try to save a small quantity (pint) for my scroll saw projects.
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For my backers I do not think I have used anything thicker then 1/4". Mostly I use 1/8" BB. I get 25 pieces 12" x 12" for $20.00 plus tax (6%). That works out to about $0.90 each. If I used 1/4" BB the cost would be about $1.30 a piece for 25 pieces. How you ask? I get my BB from a real lumber yard in 5' x 5' sheets. By real lumber yard I am not talking about Lowes or Home Depot. You pay a lot of money for someone to cut big sheets into little pieces.
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Sure hope she paid well. Good Job.
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Good for you Buddy.
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Dust collector for Excalibur from Seyo
NC Scroller replied to Gonzo's topic in General Scroll Sawing
The HF collector should work if it is outside the shop or you put a better bag or filter on it. I believe it comes with a 5 micron bag and the "bad" dust is much smaller then that. -
Just an FYI. The thinner the stock the more susceptible it is to warping, twisting and cupping. Don't stock pile too much.
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CWCM - (Creative Woodworks & Crafts Magazine)
NC Scroller replied to edward's topic in General Scroll Sawing
We just look at the pictures. Especially the centerfold. ;) -
Yes they were pretty easy to cut. I used #7 Olson PGT blades. #9 might have been better but I need to order some.
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Here is a set of Sue Mey ornaments I recently test cut for her. There are 18 in the set. Each ornament is made up of 3 or more pieces cut and then glued up. I used an assortment of woods including, butternut, basswood, poplar, and ash. Each ornament is made out of the same wood. I think the next batch I might make using different woods to see how they look. Thanks for looking.
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Montserrat that came out very nice. Those are challenging and a lot of fun.
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Using the roller puts a very light coat that hardly oozes out.
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Do I ever. I picked this up from the late Dirk Boelman. It required a 1" trim roller, a piece of wax paper, and some foam pipe insulation. Replace the standard roller with a piece of 1" foam pipe insulation. You might need to add a small amount of tape to ensure a tight fit. Then pour out some glue on the wax paper and coat the roller like you coat a roller to paint. The more glue on the roller the more on the project. Then apply the glue to the back of the project. Let it sit 2-3 minutes and then pressure on your backer. I recommend clamping or applying weights of a hour or two for the most secure bond. After done just take a wet paper towel and wipe the roller off. It will last for 100's of projects.
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Beside the obvious cutting your fingers kick back is the next worse issue. This is caused mostly by the fence and blade not being parallel. Splitters will help but a good fence is a must.
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BTW...This is where I get my mat board. It comes in 32" x 40" sheets. There is one of their retail stores in Raleigh, NC which is about 90 minutes from me. When I go I stock up. They do have other retail stores around the country. http://search.jerrysartarama.com/search?keywords=mat+board
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I have one of these. Works great for inside and outside cuts. Tend to sell more matted pictures then unmated so this has been well worth it. I charge at least $5 extra for matted pictures. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Logan-Compact-Elite-Mat-Cutter/24412466
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99% of my wood is cut on the table saw before going to the scroll saw. Like dgman I could not survive without one. Make sure to use a splitter and a push stick. Most TS accidents happen when you are in a hurry. Take your time and think out each cut.
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Montserrat let me know if I can help. Here are a few suggestions to any one attempting these or other compound cut projects. - Choose a tight grained moderately soft wood such as basswood, alder, poplar, soft maple. - Put clear packing tape on all 4 sides of the block. - Change blades like some else is paying for them. I think I used 3 blades to cut the 4 parts of the house. - I used #7 Olson PGT blades to make mine. #9's would have been better but I did not have any. - Max out the tension on your saw and max out the speed. Then slow your cut rate way way down.
