rjR

Apparently you have previous experience! The long throated monster in the backgrouund still looks viable; too. I sometimes have 2 saws setup at the same time. The scond is a 16" not a ?? like your 2nd. The 788 is a nice saw. You should enjoy it! I did make a different lamp mount-- put it on the stand and very easily moved even from side to side. My lamp is one of the long reach spring armed type-- with a flourescent type bulb.. Good light-- doesn't get hot and lasts well. I broke the original bulb in the DW lamp the first week.

Everyone has had something like that happen. Too nice of peice to not fix! Clean the old glue off as much as possible( I use a mini-file set I have for this lkind of work).-- get a clear drying glue--- lay pieces out on a very flat & STURDY surface-- large enough to give you working room around it. Old piece of countertop works or some other similar thing. Surface can be covered with a paper layer that the glue won't stick too--I use household wax paper- sometimes clamp it down with the clothespin type plactic/metal clamps I have) -- very carefully glue up using something as a glue carrier that is small and thin to minimise the excess (toothpicks can be used-Q-tips also) --- glue one area at a time--- Very carefully making sure the pieces are meshing well --push together --go to next-- push together. Gentle sliding using a pusher block of something works better than fingers! NOW use a rubber band large enough to go around it all--lying flat.----YOU MIGHT NEED AN EXTRA set of hands here--- ASK for help-(another method of using the edges woould be a tempory laid together frame around all of it for the bands to go around or then use a web-strap type clamping system) --- put enough on to get it tight without it trying to bow up! CAREFUL don't over stretch the band or it will try to BOW UP on you. I use smallish rubber bands for gluing clamps all the time. The Dollar Tree Store usually has a nice assortment for a George! Consider them like sandpaper-- bought to use up! Now the hard part--- LET IT LAY! for at least a 24 hour period-- Then if you can leave it again for 24! Now cheat and make backer pieces to the joined areas. If you make backer peices for the same spots that were not broken and add them all with it lying on your surface-- again give it the 24 hours. Even make one to hang it from and they will look like part of the design. Should work; I have had it work well for me in the past! The waiting is the hard part! Another way would be to just cut a contrasting outline as a background piece and glue to that! Hope this helps and "good luck".

Made special for my youngest granddaughter. The glitter-glue was her idea, as were the colors. Smallest is about 3" long largest about 7" long. They are now hanging in her room. Made from repurposed edges and surplus. If some one wants the patterns; I made tmeplates as I made the pieces. I can scan them in and email them to you. Just email me at [email protected]

I do the standard-- computer print-- tape down etc. ONCE-- I am also perfectly willing to modify the pattern for various reasons-- before with a marker over the top; and even while cutting them if I see something I want to change. If it a pattern that I intend to make more of -- I use the packing tape and tape a thin piece of backer stock of some kind to it. I then end up with a template -- as I cut the wanted item. When making more or --stack cutting; tape the blanks together -- or your preferred method of holding them together. I now just clear tape over where any cuts are going to be. Now the previously made template is clamped-held in place and just drawn around. I use permanent red markers ( for more precise work use the fineline ones and trace around with more care) for an easy to see line. Remove clamp and cut. I have also just used a contrasting paint spray over a template.(usually primer) -- if I was just preparing future work. I have been making templates as I have drawn up my holiday items. Some are very thin plywwood, some a thicker (1/16) or so semi-rigid plastic, some are hardboard(masonite) If you have lots of it --even thin metal can be used. I have even used the tops from icecream buckets. The cardboard ones just don't last as well and are harder to use. I used to make them from cereal boxes etc. People with extremely good eyesight can also just draw with a stylus using heavy pressure directly on to the wood; and follow the slight indentations. Hope this helps some "newbie" --- I will share patterns if someone wants. Just email and ask! Use woodwork,pattern, or some similar subject -- I dump strange emails witout sensible subject lines!

What I forgot to ask about is "key words"; I know what the term means, I just don;t know the "best/good" key words. Suggestions Please. I will be implementing the changes fairly soon. Again Thanks to everyone. I will be making a "TaNader" toy box for my nephew in ND. The shippning is going to be crazy; he knows and wants it anyway! I imagine materials alone are going to run about $100-- hope for less. I will try to locate and "re-purpose" some plywood. This toybox is about 6-1/2 feet long. Winch works-- is movable by picking up rear end-- sets on a platform- to keep wheels from being ruined playing.

HEY! A VERY LARGE "Thank YOU" to all. I will be following your advice! More advice on individual emails are also welcome! Being a --*&^&^%*& ---German heritage-- does make it harder to take; but I have mostly overcome that! You can privately email me at [email protected]

I have a website that seems to get very little traffic; here is the url. http://aeontoys.weebly.com/index.html I have actually only had one potential customer and he wanted way past reasonable expectations! Wanted to pay $20 for a handmade heavy-duty wooden rocking horse. I probably had $50+ in it in materials and supplies; not to mention labor. Any ideas/help is appreciated. I have also just opened an Etsy shop; again HELP/IDEAS are badly needed. I can still change the shop name---IDEAS--- PLEASE! https://www.etsy.com/shop/RsToys I know someone out there has more experience in these areas than I do and can HELP! All suggestions considered and I will think about them. Most likely use at least part of them. Thanks Everyone.

Enjoyed your work--TERRIFIC! I make wheels a lot with hole saws in the drillpress. The trick of leaving a sawdust exit does help a lot. I also have slotted some of my hole saws down the sides with a griding disk. The speed can be adjusted down also to prevent heat build-up. I also do rise out of them a lot when doing harder woods. Another thing I do is hand sharpen my saws with diamond files-- Small ones are cheap. One more trick that helps is using a good quality candle wax as a lube while cutting. Lift out leave running and just run teeth into candle and also push candle against the inside and outside of the saw. Hope these ideas help. I buy the diamond files ta Harbor-Freight. I don't know whether or not you have them; but, probably have an equivalant anyway.

That is a very nice job. Here is a link to the last one of those that I saw. http://s180.photobucket.com/user/rjR_WFND/media/rjrs%20Vehicle%20pictures/P1060613.jpg.html?sort=6&o=125 Unfortunately it had been adulterated witha bow-tie drive line! I do understand the reasons; but , still like to see them with at least family made drive and chassis.

I have used a good quality exterior wood glue and had it hold painted wood. That was even through some ND winters. If you are nervous about it, just predrill and use small screws also, bury them fill over and spot paint etc, or if possible run them from the back side -- almost , but not quite through.

Kevin "The AMAZING!" it tis, yah. Hope you are haveing a blast. I did get too play with storm drains during our one spell of "monsoon" here a week ago Sunday. The original perforrated buried drain pipes fpor the gutter were plugged and very broken too boot. Trenching and then new solid pipe to the street in the rain. I did get to finish the burial with decent weather and the help of "Prodigy"! "Prodigy" is our mini-loader. lawn mower engine-- but totally unreal what the little devil can do! On wheels without the tracks; it would not be very usable though. I LOVE RUBBER TRACKS! That little Prodigy would have been good for your step stone project also. I can take it anywhere you can get a wheelbarrow to. It goes through a 32" garden gate. Will climb a few steps, etc.

AS we are all different; so are our sensitivites/prejudices/beliefs also all different! I ose a vacumn system on my prtable and stationery sanders. It also gets uesd on the cut-off and table saws. I do not use it much on the scroll saw. I have tried a few times and found it not to work out well. My little shopvac and the port on the DeWalt portable do catch a lot of dust though. Not breathing sawdust is always a good idea.

On 60+years if you count the coping saw and a solid 59+ without counting the coping saw; I think I do BEAT the "nappies" brag.

I have tried to run a scrollsaw for about 60 years now. I think that makes me the old man! Eventually I might even get good at it.

Hi Marvin, Everyone has given excellent advice. I have a few more ideas they forgot to mention. Blade lubrication, wax, spray-on stuff, or a clear teflon tape over your pattern or even the pattern drawn on the tape covered piece might help. Is your blade actually square to itself and the saw table.? If it even a few degrees off following a line is tough. I have had to adjust saws to this before. How much side slop is on your blade carriers; maybe careful tightening/ repair of the saw this way will help. I use red for my patterns as it is much easier to see the blade againt the red line! I have found after a decade of searching that the best cheap pens are the "Bic Grip Fine Red" I but them at an office supply store by the dozen. They mark on most wood witout falling a part. I can sometimes get them to mark on the teflon tape and sometimes have to use fineline permanent markers for that. WE all have and do sometimes MISS the line! Sometimes the wood grain is the master PERIOD! If you cut a tiny bit on the outside of the line and sand to the line it can also help. Better light/ reading glasses, or even a more comfortable position will all affect the end result! If you are extremely tired and the sawing is not fun; it becomes a lot harder to do a decent job also. Good LUCK! I am sure that I missed some ideas also. I will watch this for more information. Everyone has had these same issues and sometimes still do.

Being also an extremely skilled paint slopper; I have had the same issues. Kilz or repaint or sand were the only options. One other Kevin suggested-- go"teenager" add wild decorations. The Dolllar Tree stores (also Target, K-Mart-W-etc also have them although they are probably $2 there instead of the lonely George at Dollar Tree) ---- has small sticker package kits on various subjects, that can help cover- "enrichment occurances" (SCREW-UPS). They have saved me a lot lfwork a few times.

This crazy bunch always likes new views etc. Welcome to the insanity! I know a very talented artist that lives here in Oregon, originally form Estonia.

That depends on which saw i am using at the time; and the size of the project! Bigger projects seem to demand being done standing. I use a drafting stool for the sitting jobs.(Salvation Army-- senoir discount special $3.60) My DeWalt 788 came with a stand and a poor light. I use the stand-- replaced the light with a spring arm one mounted by holes so it is very movable on the platform I made under the saw. My Grizzley has a temporary home on the bench; will soon be in the RV and move from picnic table to picnic table, etc. I might take a workmate along, not sure yet. Use standing only so far, because of bench height and "clutter"! My 60 yeaar old Craftsman only comes out for thin projects and kid use! tThen it is placed on a H-F "workmate". It get used from a cushion on a pull type plastic toolbox. They are the biggest bargain I have ever had. They were under $15 each and I have abused the blazes out of them. I ended up making a new top for one of my 2. I just used 3/4 plywood scraps and it works well. Drilled it and used the original dogs also.

I like your display, but agree with the commments about the price tags! It isn't K-Mart. The only one I ever tried was a total bust! I did NOT sell even a dime'sworth of anything! I saw junk sell that was just plain junk; with stenciled flowers, not even painted etc. It was totally disappointing. I have never even tried another one. Hope it fares better for you.

Hey Kev, Anytime you can get work ahead --TAKE IT! Good luck on the projects I am going to make some of these (http://lumberjocks.com/projects/83140 ) when I finish the re-finishing project, that I seem to be delaying on.

Hello Everyone, I am trying to find the best $$$ value in sandpaper! Standard sheets, not velcro or self adhesive. I love Harbor Freight's sanding belts; but their sandpaper is hardly worth taking out of the store. I have found that 3M or Norton are best for me! Any other good, decent priced, where to purchase etc. Please email me if you know of a good source! Thanks all.

I have had slippage on my DeWalt 788. I then take the allen screw out of the side and sand/file it flat and do the same on the "thumbscrew"-- I replaced them with actual screws as the thumbscrews gave me problems. This does seem to help. I cut a fair amount of hickory-- make nameplates from flooring scraps, so I know I abuse the blade holders!

Proving again that some of us are real ametures; regardless of the years, compared to the PRO-- KEVIN!--- Again you keep making it harder for me to put anything up here. I can NOT MATCH your patience or precision!

GUILTY Your Honor I do agree with the Mississippi Man though!

Yes, I am a toymaker. The total of rocking horses of 4 sizes-- 2 rideable-- Ride -ons about 65+ Minis-- about 20-- Toy trucks, cars, tractors, and even name trains are part of the group. I also make name plates, Letters for room walls etc. Give a lot away, sell some, even have made custom designs, and one of my toys is on permanernt display at Morril Hall NDSU-- Fargo, ND. It is part of an agricultural toy display! http://aeontoys.weebly.com/index.html is my website. Latest project-- commissioned "rocking elephant"