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Sycamore67

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Everything posted by Sycamore67

  1. Sycamore67
    I think a Hegner would also do a good job. As for blades, I would use a FD Polar blade or either as skip tooth or hook tooth blade.
  2. Sycamore67
    never figured out why someone quotes everything in the previous post. Another mystery goes unsolved.
  3. Sycamore67
    Very well done...good cutting and shaping.
  4. Sycamore67
    I went last year but not this year. It was very good. But, it is just too far to go for me. It would be so nice to have something more Midwest or western U.S. it is a long drive and the costs add up quickly
  5. Sycamore67
    I did not list the name as it usually draws a lot of negative comments on some forums. I have a Festool CT 26 HEPA. I use it on my scroll saw, sanders, and other tools. What I want to emphasize is the need to use a HEPA vacuum. Scroll saws and sanding creates a lot of fine dust known to cause problems. In addition, some woods are much more of a problem. Using a HEPA vacuum or a vacuum with a HEPA filter captures a lot of this fine dust. Note that there is a difference between a HEPA vacuum and a regular vacuum using a HEPA filter. But, using either is a good step in reducing problems. I know that many use a dust mask and that keeps you from directly breathing the dust. However, if you are not capturing the dust, it will be on everything including your clothes and you will end up breathing it. Fine dust can hang in the air for a long time. Everyone has a different sensitivity to dust. As I get older, I find that it bothers me more and so I have become more proactive in my approach.
  6. Sycamore67
    I use a HEPA vacuum on my saw that is designed to run continuously. It is quiet, variable speed and can come on when the saw starts. I have to admit that it was expensive but works well and does not re-circulate fine dust. I used plastic pipe and 3/4" Loc-Line fittings to capture dust both top and bottom. The Loc-Line is easily adjustable so to be in the right place but can be moved easily. As I get older, I am more sensitive to the fine dust. While my solution was $$$, the cost of breathing the fine dust was more expensive.
  7. Sycamore67
    Wonderful job...a real beauty. This is something on my list of things to try.
  8. Sycamore67
    I like the dimmable LED lights but they require a special dimmer. I use a magnifying light that has a circular fluorescent bulb.
  9. Sycamore67
    It would help me if you made a sketch. I am having a hard time knowing exactly what you need. You need a dowel 3" long with the last 1.5" tapered. How large is the starting dowel and what diameter tapered down to?
  10. Sycamore67
    I do not do fret work or word signs. Most of my projects are Intarsia or thick puzzles. I know that many love a foot switch but it is uncomfortable for me as no matter how I put things it stresses my back. (I have metal in my back and chronic pain with it.) The great thing about the scroll saw is that there are so many different things to make and different ways to make them. With Intarsia I cut a lot of exotic woods and these can be hazardous to breath. I have added dust collection above and below the table and it gets a very high per cent of the dust. I am using a Festool dust extractor which is HEPA rated and rated for continuous use. It also is set up to come on when my scroll saw comes on. It is very quiet and has variable speed. I bought it to use with other tools on my shop but is great for the scroll saw. The downside is the price.
  11. Sycamore67
    Personally, there are a couple of things that I think are critical for a scroll saw vac. - Ability to run constantly as I will scroll for a hour at a time. Most vacs are not rated for this. - The vac is HEPA rated. It is well known that the small particles are the most hazardous. Unless a vac is collecting these particles, they are just being blown back into the air to breath.
  12. Sycamore67
    Play-doh was first invented in the 1930s as a wall paper cleaner. As some would say....Now you know!
  13. Sycamore67
    I love my Hegner and is a solid machine. Even better is that you can easily get parts. If I did fret work, it would not be my choice but for cutting thicker wood is great. Good Luck with it.
  14. Sycamore67
    I also use blue painters tape and 3M77. It works well for me. I am not a fan of using things like acetone due to the smell it gives off and flamability issues.
  15. Sycamore67
    Which scroll saw to buy first is really interesting. There are quite a few people who buy an expensive one and then they find out that they really do not like scroll sawing. That was great for me as I found an almost new Hegner for a really good price. Buying a cheap one could be very discouraging. So.....what do you buy first? Maybe buy a good used one, find someone who will let you try one, buy a medium priced one? I believe in buying the best tool you can afford but if you have never scrolled before it may be a bit different.
  16. Sycamore67
    My recommendation for a vacuum - Has a HEPA vacuum filter - I think this is important to catch fine dust and not re-circulate it in the shop. - Rated for continuous use - Quiet I use one that has all of these features plus turns on when I start my scroll saw and you can vary the vacuum strength. I think the Fein will do this and a Festool. Unfortunately, both of these are pretty pricey.
  17. Sycamore67
    Really nice cutting.. But difficult to see as the image is very small at something like 14 kb.
  18. Sycamore67
    I have an adjustable height stool that has a back rest on it. It provides some good back support. I think it is a Craftsman brand. I also have a foot rest to help with my back.
  19. Sycamore67
    I guess that when you look at the cost of printing you need to include both the printer and ink as a package. I have had bad luck with some refilled cartridges causing problems with print heads.
  20. Sycamore67
    Warpage happens most often on plain sawn wood and much less on quartersawn wood. On thin projects I use mainly the quartersawn wood.
  21. Sycamore67
    I made this mini box which is about 1-1/2" square and 1" tall from walnut, maple and birdseye maple. The top and bottom of the inside are lined with leather. The mini Dragon Puzzle is made of maple. All of the parts were finished with a finishing wax. The box was made with hand tools and the corners are mitered at 45° with a plane and shooting board. The Dragon is 1/8" maple and cut with a FD P 2/0 blade.
  22. Sycamore67
    This is a puzzle I made for my grand daughter for Christmas. It is a pattern by Judy Peterson and cut from 3/4" Red Oak. The tray that it sits in is Baltic Birch Plywood. The finish was orange shellac for the puzzle and white shellac for the tray.
  23. Sycamore67
    Amazing ...nice job
  24. Sycamore67
    A good question about using a jig to hold the ornaments while cutting. For me it is a necessity. I have worn out wrist joints with bone on bone. The right one was fixed two years ago by a great surgeon. I still have flexibility in the wrist and not much pain. Unfortunately, my left wrist will have the same surgery in early January and will be out of shop for several months recovering. The surgery is called a four corner fusion. There is no one right way to do anything with scroll saw....whatever works for you is great and the jig works for me. I really enjoying reading how people make a project to see if it might help me.
  25. Sycamore67
    The source for the pattern for the Tree and Snowman was Claytons Scrollsaw Patterns. I have been using this clamp with the springs for awhile now and it works well. As you cut the pattern, it collapse in a little on the cuts and come loose. The springs make certain to keep good pressure on the piece you are cutting. I have lined the inside of the clamp with coarse sandpaper to help grip the part. I have a small battery screwdriver which I use to open and close the clamp and makes it much easier.
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