Sam777

Do you leave the area to be glued unstained? What glue do you prefer? Thank you Sam

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO ALL Sam

OMG What can I say? AMAZING work, BREATHTAKING pieces. Good luck at the show and keep up the great work Sam

I appreciate everyone's advice and comments. All advice and comments well taken. I guess I will llimit the Mineral Oil usage to kitchen pieces I tried danish oil on Alder and I didn't like the results. It left some shiney spot and some soaked into the wood. Good bless you ALL and this great forum. Happy thanksgiving to all Sam

Hello Sean, I don't think you need a pattern book to start. Look here in this forum's library and choose simple patterns to start with: http://www.scrollsawvillage.com/gallery/category/2-pattern-library/ Or here at Steve Good's Blog spot. Steve is very well know in the scrollsawing arena and has hundreds of FREE patterns. Or you can buy his pattern books/DVDs and more. Check this out: http://scrollsawworkshop.blogspot.com/ Good luck Sam

Hi all, I have glued a few pieces to their bases and chose to glue before I put oil (mineral oil). The issue is you can see where the glue (TiteBond) squeezed out a little and of course those spots do not absorb the oil. Do you glue before or after you oil (or stain) your pieces? thank you in advance Sam

I don't know what to say. I like the look of Alder. For the folks who suggested using clear tape to lube the blade, these were cut with clear tape on top only. I appreciate every bodies responses and suggestions. I will keep watching out when using this wood and I will keep posting about my progress when I use Alder. Thank again Sam

Thank you Scott, Here are my pictures. I hope they show the wood species. Thank you all

To answer all: I started with #7 FDUR but half way in the piece I had to change to #5 and then again to #3. The #3 cut that 3/4 wood the best. I am trying to attach pictures but I haven't been able to figure out how to that. I feel stupid now :( May be like Scott is saying, may be this wood is not alder. It feels very soft yet is very dense. If someone can tell me how to post a picture, I will show you some. Thank you all

Hi group I have cut a few pieces in Alder wood. Actually I used this wood to cut Travis's patter of wine glasses holder. This 3/4 wood is so tough to cut I would rather cut 3/4 Oak instead. I can through 2-3 blades in each piece. The fine grain seems to dull the blades quicker than oak. Do you experience the same issue. The finished Alder pieces are nice looking but I don't think it is worth the effort. Your comments please. Thank you Sam

Very nice indeed. Great job on the detail and paint job Sam

Hi, Is it recommended to leave trivet intended for HOT plates/pot/pans, be left unfinished? Is there a finish that will cause issues from hot plates on it? I am talking about 1/2 & 3/4 thick Oak or other woods. Thank you Sam

Jerry, Outstanding work on the globe. Congrats It is always nice for our kids/grandkids to show interest in our work (I'm talking about the older folks now). Really Great work. thanks for sharing. Sam

WOW, That is great detailed work. Both frame and frework. Very impressive. Thanks for sharing Sam

Katie, Nice job documenting your progress. OMG this is TOO much for me to tackle yet. I will stick to the SIMPLER stuff. Very nice work. Thank you for sharing. Sam

They are both nice, but the new one is a LITTLE nicer What kind of wood and finish did you use? Thanks for sharing Sam

That is a very nice piece. Not to copy others' vote but I would hang it and when needed use as a trivet. As far as barely making the space fees, I have done that many many times until I gave up on glasswork at craft shows or fair. Dont' feel bad. Good luck to her next time. Sam

Jerry, It came out very nice. I will have to do one of them Sam

Ex-16, Bottom feeder.

Ok Folks, If you don't mind, let's talk about how I apply my patterns to the wood (without the mess of spray glue and the pain of removing it): I have been meaning to talk about this since I joined but I thought the experts know better and they probably tried everything. 1st, I print all my patterns (keep in mind I am still new to scroll sawing: less than a year and have not been doing much) on good self adhesive full sheet labels (I only use Avery and not the cheap labels). 2nd, here is the explanation: I have not heard anyone talk about a vinyl transfer tape. That is ALL I have used since I started learning scroll sawing and joining this great forum. The reason I know so much about this tape is because I use it a lot to transfer cut vinyl to apply the vinyl to glass (in my case) ALL the vinyl sign makers use it. you can purchase this tape in many widths from 2" to 36" and I think up to 60" wide. All we would be interested in is probably the 2", 10" or may be just the 10" one. I wish I have made a video of the process but let me describe that process: You can buy this at many places and of course at Ebay. I will put links to this at the end of this post. There are two different kinds, one looks like masking tape and the other like scotch tape (clear). I have only used the masking tape look alike although there would be a great benefit to the CLEAR tape(LUBRICATING THE BLADE). You apply either tape (I use the 10" wide one) with a squeegee just like you would on the adhesive back shelf rolls. Then you apply the pattern which you printed on the Avery label. Trust me I know what I am talking about. when you are all done with cutting your pattern, just start peeling from any place and depending on the complexity of your pattern, the tape and pattern come off leave ABSOLUTELY no residue. If your pattern has small pieces the tape/pattern paper would not peel off at in one piece but you keep peeling any small pieces effortlessly. Remember many of us apply the blue tape one strip at a time. With my way you apply the tape to the whole surface of your wood, and you choose the clear tape, you don't need the strips of clear tape on top to lubricate the blade. NO MORE staining or any other issues of paper stuck to the wood. Here are the links to transfer the tape on Ebay: * The Masking tape look alike tape: http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_sacat=0&_nkw=conform+transfer+tape&_sop=15 * The Scotch tape look alike tape (Clear): http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=conform+transfer+tape&_sop=15&_osacat=0&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR0.TRC0.H0.Xclear+conform+transfer+tape.TRS1&_nkw=clear+conform+transfer+tape&_sacat=0 If you anyone has any questions about THIS process, please feel free to ask. I hope I didn't confuse anyone. Thank you Sam

I am glad you are set. I have done that one but it looks like the bottom set screw on my EX16 has moved. I have to loctite it again. sam

I have used hot glue a few time and I like it. But there is some preparation before you glue: 1. paste/glue your pattern to the top piece, 2. stack as many as you are planning on cutting, 3. drill holes around the pattern or inside it on regions which will NOT cut completely, 4. start from the top (or bottom piece) apply drops of that hot glue on these holes (between the layers) and press them together with the hole aligned. I don't think I explained this properly. Sorry if I confused the procedure. I this was a LITTLE helpful. Sam

If we buy his books, can we sell the finished pieces made with his patterns? Thanks Sam

wow, great job on the 1st piece. Keep it up, Congrats Sam

Very nice portable setup. and as you said, you can always move it around. If you decide to make a permanent dust booth later, this setup is not a big loss. Good job. keep the dust contained. Sam