Sam777

now you tell me guys, I should have asked before finishing the piece. I don't have a drill press and I used the scroll saw. of course the hole is not perfect but kept it undersize. so with some pressure, the clock insert sit very nicely. Thank you all for the answers. Sam

Hi all, if you are using these clock inserts (1-7/16"): How do you secure that insert into the hole? do you just depend on the rubber ring which comes with it? My wood is 1/2" thick oak and the hole for the insert goes thru. Thank you Sam

I agree with Dan, I am also new to this. Couple of weeks ago, I posted the same problem and I was frustrated. I found out that my tension was not enough. I had to tension the blade quite a bit and my similar problem is ALMOST gone. Tension, low pressure on the blade and CHANGE THE BLADE OFTEN. You will see the difference as soon as you put a new blade. Please let us know what fixes the problem. Sam

Thank you all for the comments and advice. I will sure I don't leave any piled up / bunched up rags around. this is scary. Thanks again. Sam

Hello all, I think I saw some talk about using Tung oil but I could not find the thread. I bought a can from Home Depot and last night I saturated (as much as possible with a brush) a piece I made from 1/2 oak. Today the piece is dry. Was I supposed to have mixed this with mineral spirit? Would polyurethane stick to tung oil, even it is dry? I guess oil doesn't really dry specially on an oak piece? I would appreciate your comments and advice. Thank you Sam

Peter, congrats on the new scroll saw I got EX-16 about 3 months ago (lightly used). Haven't done a lot but I am having problems with too much front to back blade travel. I haven't messed with clocking the motor yet. Once you are happy with that process, please give me a hand. I would appreciate it. Thank you Sam

Thank you Larry. Would someone with EX give some advice? Also, I would like to attach a video to a post. How can I do that? Thanks Sam

Thanks again to all. Thank you Len for the detailed guidance. I increased the tension from the top back of the EX-16 BUT the wondering feels worse. So I started checking front to back blade movement and it is BAD. I tried to re position the bottom of the blade and pushed it back in the upper clamp but the issue is the same. So I took a video of me holding a square aluminum block which shows how bad the movement is. Thank you all GETTING DISCOURAGED HERE :sad:P Please someone help me to attach that video so you guys can see it. Sam

Thank you all for the reply. YES. I did change from a new blade to another new blade:) same issue. OK, I understand how one cannot push straight and needs to go in on an angle specially to get a straight line cut. I think some of you saying that I may need more TENSION I think is the issue. Those blades are very "spongy" flexing back & forth even with very little pressure. I have tightened the tension on my EX16. I think I need more tension but how do you know when you get enough? I guess keep tightening until the blade feels right I was looking at the Olson blades last night but got so confused with the different types and gave up. Would someone give me the exact part numbers for an Olson blade with would be good for 3/4 wood? I know you guys said the the #5FDUR should be fine, but I would like to try the Olson blades. Actually, I know my blade is NOT at 90 back/forth. I am not sure if I am causing that by not properly seating the blade in the bottom yoke? Could that be my problem? Since we are on the BLADE issues I have more questions, please put up with my dumb ones: On an EX-16, seating the blade in the bottom yoke, should I position that blade as far down as possible? so when I lower the top yoke it does not push the blade down? and how do you make sure that when you tighten the screw on the bottom blade, that the blade is at a 90 deg to table. Thank you all again for all the replies.

Hello all, I was cutting a 3/4" Knotty Alder (soft) piece of wood using a new #5 FD-UR blade. Is #5 not large enough for that? It felt like the blade is dull but it was brand new. I have a EX-16 and I had to fight with that piece of wood to cut a straight line. I had to cut at about a 10-12 degree angle to a straight line. I am not sure it is the saw or the blade but that blade sure felt like it was dull. I appreciate any hints. Thank you all Sam

Insanely Beautiful and marvelous work

That is correct. This is from the Scroll Saw Goodies site where Travis sells scroll saw patterns Thank you Sam

Hi, I am not sure if this is the proper section of the Forum to ask this question: If I purchase a pattern from the Scroll Saw Goodies Pattern Shop, how would I get that pattern? Thank you Sam

Ok Guys, I thank all of you for the reply and advice. NO, the scratches don't bother me, but I thought I might be pushing too much down on the wood pieces as I'm cutting. As you guys may have noticed, I am new to scroll sawing with a scrollsaw. In the past (about 30 + years ago) I used a manual scrollsaw for about 5 years (none-stop). (I tried to attach its picture but I can't find the attach button here). I just bought a lightly used EX-16. I am still learning and have a loooooonnnng way to go some of you guys' level. So will ask a lot of questions as I cut more. Thank you all for the contribution Sam

Hello experts, Do you wax your scroll saw table tops? When I bought this saw, there were no scratches on the table. Now with no more than 5 hours of work on it I managed to scratch the table top. See attached file. Thank you for your help Sam

Hi all, I am new to scroll sawing. I have had my EX-16 for about 2 months now. I find easier to top feed and keep to bottom clamp set. Sam

Good Luck, Have a successful day Sam

Real impressive work. Thank for sharing. Sam

Haha, I second that. Thanks Sam

Thank you Dan, Sorry guys. I didn't mean to hijack the topic. This shows my lack of experience in Forums Discussions. Sam

Thank you for welcoming me. Sam

Thank everyone. How do you change your info. Thanks

Thank you Travis, AND ALL of you gentlemen for the support. I am afraid of getting more hooked between the JOB and my home projects, my time is spread sooooo thin that my days fly by in a blink Thanks again for all the help. I am REALLY so glad I found this forum and the wealth of knowledge and willingness to help others. It is amazing. Sam

Hi all, I am the newest guy here. Please be patient with my questions So, is it better to spray the glue directly onto the wood or use the tape method. The tape method sounds like costly. how wide of a blue tape do you use? Thank you sam

Hello everyone, Where is the best place to get wood supplies: . Baltic Birch plywood and other plywoods... . 1/4 and 1/2 solid oak, Birch, Maple... I would appreciate some help. Thank you Sam