Sam777
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Everything posted by Sam777
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I guess, this another way wouldn't we want to capture the oil for the next item? Thanks Sam
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I made some of these and like Dan said, I mostly used #3 and if you force that blade (depending on the wood) the puzzle will not fit together. Good luck Sam
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I will experiment with the left over pieces. You pointed my attention to something. I used #5 & 3 FDUR here. I am not sure if you can see the letter S in the pictures. The sides of that S are so shiny it looks like I buffed. I guess that is what fine blade does, especially when going feeding too slow (mainly around curves). Well another lesson learned I will use your advice for the oil. I will try both the natural & dark walnut Danish Oil. Thank you Sam
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Well, any suggestions Thanks Sam
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Thank you all for the comments/advice (overwhelming response). Here is a 3/4 Walnut piece I just finished cutting. I have not sanded it at all. I have following oil on hand: Tung oil, Lemon oil, Danish oil (natural & dark walnut). What do you think I should use. Thank you all Sam By the way, please feel free critiquing/comment on the cutting job
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Are these oils your final finish? No lacquer or poy after that? Thanks Sam
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John, That tooooo impressive. Wow, I like all the above. I didn't know other oils are also of concern. Thank you for the caution. I LIKE your magazine racks and more than that these awesome watches. Thank you. If these pieces come out fine, I will show you and the group some pictures. Thank you Sam
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John, I don't I want to mess with BLO (and the concern of rags igniting so on). I think I will stay with Danish oil as the final finish. Do you see anything wrong with that? assuming the oil finish will be even throughout the piece? Also, I am not looking to get a glossy shiny finish. I like satin/matt finish on wood. Thank again for your comments. Sam
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John, I bought 2 shades of the Danish oil (Natural and Dark Walnut). Does the water based lacquer go well over the danish oil? Here in Calif we no longer have oil based paints :( Thank you for the advice/comments Sam
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Thank you for the advice Dan, will do that. Do you put a coat of lacquer over the oil? Sam
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I know the finishing posts have been beaten to death but still some of us were NOT ready to learn/practice that until now: Whether 1/4 BB or 3/4 solid wood. It seems like dipping is the better way to go so the oil can get into the corners and carnies of fretwork, Correct? 1. How long do you dip the piece (1/4 BB, 3/4 Walnut, Oak, Maple ...)? 2. Once removed from the oil bath, how to dry it? Hang some Xmas ornaments over a pan and let them air dry. But that will have many drippings dry as they air out. Or should I air blow them dry (compressed air?). 3. Once dry, unless the finish looks even throughout the piece (no bloches) I can leave them at that or spray paint with clear laquer??? Please chime in with your advices and comments, I appreciate your help Thank you Sam
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I use what sign makers call Transfer Tape. I apply that directly to the wood, I print all my printing on full sheets of Avery white labels, I apply that to the wood after I had stuck the Transfer Tape to. Never had an issue with removing paper after the project is done. (keep in mind I don't scroll saw as much as any of you guys/gals) Sam
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Thank you guys. I appreciate everyone's comments and advice. I thought I would get the clamps from Seyco today. I still don't have them (I paid for the 2 day Fedex shipping ) Sam
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The reason I have been tightening the blade that much is because my blades slip as they get tensioned to where I think is tight enough. I have never tried to scuff the flat ends of blades like I heard many members do. I think it is time to do that Thank you all for the comments & advice. Sam
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Thank you Len, I already ordered from Seyco online. I chose the 2 day Fedex for an additional $3.00. I ordered the whole lower assembly because I found out the threads are messed up. I also ordered an extra thumb screw and a set of them little rollers which go at the tip of the thumb screws. Thank you for the suggestion. Sam
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Thank you Dan
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OH, So put the clamps on the left side? You think it is the same thread? I will check in the morning. Thank you for the advice. I appreciate it. Sam
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Where can we buy the Pegas blades? Thanks Sam
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Dan, Sorry the get off the subject here but I am desperate. Do you know if the Woodcraft store in Orange County carries EX calmps? Thanks
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Dan, Very impressive class. You can tell students are REALLY all in Great, keep teaching them. I wish I was closer (Riverside, So Cal). Sam
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Help Please, I have been using Steve Good's Round scrollsawed gadget to tighten the blade clamps on my EX 16 (I am NOT blaming Steve). I think I have been over tightening my clamps. Today I noticed that the bottom clamp did not want back up enough for a #7 blade. So I started forcing it out and immediately I realized messed up threads. Then it wouldn't go in or out. I had to force it out with penetrating oil until I got it out. A couple of its thread are messed up (gulled). I also suspect imperfect thread on the threaded lower arm where the lower clamp threads in. I am in the middle of making a couple of nice 3/4 Walnut pieces for my nephew (Doctor) and my niece (P. A.). I have to finish these and send them out of state before Xmas. How QUICKLY can I get these clamps? I hope I don't have to replace the lower arm :( Your thoughts please. Thank you Sam
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Well, did you order them? I have purchased from Mcmaster for the last 20 years and usually they deliver the same day if you order before 11am. at the most it will be 2 days if you have no Mcmaster in your area. Call them. I wish you can help more. Good Luck Sam
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I am sure a hair dryer blows out more than enough for a scroll saw but where does that dust go? Sam
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Would this work? at Mcmaster. https://www.mcmaster.com/#machine-screw-square-nuts/=158aqhm Scroll down to the third section (the 18-8 Stainless Square Nuts) Good luck, sam
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Thank you guys. Appreciate the hints. Sam
