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Sam777

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  1. Sam777
    Here are a couple of projects I stained. These are not glued yet but I have given quiet a few of these Napkin Holders with Initials as gifts and they came out great. I found out that the best stain on BB is Brand Varethane Red Mahogany and I have not used any prestain conditioner. I have been dipping the pieces before assembling them. What do you think. Some of my edges could use a some touching but I already sprayed these with Shellac. Thank you for listening Sam
  2. Sam777
    So eventually, if I want to go that way with future project, I would need to purchase a band saw and a thickness planer. I would love to do that but since I am not making any money on these projects, I will have to live with what I have. Home depot and Lowes in my area carry 1/4" X 6" X 36" Poplar and Oak for $12 each. If I want to with hardwood I would get these for now :( Thanks for the reply Sam
  3. Sam777
    I agree with you on the un-attractive edges of BB, But how do you get a hardwood with this kind of width (around 7" wide X 1/4" thick)? This is why I don't think twice about BB for this type. I appreciate the advice BUT since I already done the project in BB, what is your take on staining and top coating?
  4. Sam777
    JT, I don't feel that you are telling me what to do. I am soliciting anyones help with this and future projects. I appreciate that you are taking the time to explain. You are correct, I use the quart size stain and watco danish oils and will limit the dipping method. Thanks again for the hints. Sam
  5. Sam777
    Wayne, your way is a great idea. lIke you said I should keep the joints tight so as to get as little or no stain where the glue would go. Thank you for the hints Sam
  6. Sam777
    Thank you Dan, I appreciate the advice. Sam
  7. Sam777
    Thank you JT, Yes they are thru tenons. Yes I plan on dipping in stain which will not be easy after it is assembled. Thanks Sam
  8. Sam777
    Hi Ladies & Gentlemen, Sorry I have been following most of what is happening on this great forum but honestly have not had any time to participate in the conversations Now I need some finishing advice on this. I made this for a friend. This is a Steve Good pattern except I added the name of the recipient in the middle section. I am not sure whether to glue the pieces together first and then stain OR the other way around. I am afraid if I glue first, the stain would NOT take on the corners where the glue would be (I had a bad experience with that). But I stain first, then the glue would not stick as well to the wood. Please, use your experience and throw some advice my way. I would really appreciate it. Sam
  9. Sam777
    Ray, Thank you for the clarification. When I asked about framing, my thinking was frame irregular oulines, not rectangular or square pieces Sam
  10. Sam777
    If you want, I can open it in Adobe illustrator and save it for you as a PDF. Let me know Sam
  11. Sam777
    Welcome to this GREAT FORUM and I don't mean to hijack your post/question but I think we newer scrollsawers will all learn from this. Now I have a question for all of you who frame your work: Would you please elaborate a little on what kind of framing you make/use which hides the edges of BB plywood? would you please show some pictures? Thank you all Sam
  12. Sam777
    Darn. I just bought the current upper clamp assembly from Seyco Sam
  13. Sam777
    Larry, thank you for taking the time to do this comparison. This will many of us deciding which blade to use and when. My go to blade has been the #3 Pegas mg from 1/4 to 3/4. Thank you Sam
  14. Sam777
    Merry Christmas to each member of this great forum. Gold bless you all have a happy holiday season. Thank you all for your support Sam
  15. Sam777
    OMG, Kevin, you are really amazing. I hope it was worth your while. Happy holidays Sam
  16. Sam777
    Congrats Iggy. Way to go
  17. Sam777
    Thank you JT. I did just what you described yesterday on piece of red oak. How does that saron watco polish get in the little cravrces? I can definitely see the satin smooth finish on your piece. Thank you for the explanation. Sam
  18. Sam777
    Thank you JT. I did just what you described yesterday on piece of red oak. How does that saron watco polish get in the little cravrces?
  19. Sam777
    Thank you Len
  20. Sam777
    Tahnk you Bill, again
  21. Sam777
    I have another question: When using Danish oil, do you let the piece air dry by itself or wipe it with cloth ot blue shop towels? Thank you
  22. Sam777
    Thank you Len. I will show the finished piece
  23. Sam777
    I have had good experiences with also. Now I want to talk like a pro: My go to blade has been Pegas MG #3 I also like their #5 and #7 Sam
  24. Sam777
    I actually called them and this one is a 1993. I was advised to look for a newer one. A piece of advice they told me. If the saw has anAC Fasco motor, they no longer support them and it would cost around $300 to replace. To thank you Sam
  25. Sam777
    They are all beautiful Thank you for sharing Sam
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