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JimErn

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  1. JimErn
    I just got a used ex-21 and had the same problem, I found the cause on another site. Insure the upper arm is parallel to the table top. Use the back tension knob to adjust it When you install the blade, install the top of the blade first and tighten the wing knob. Insure the upper arm is all the way down, and the blade in in the slot in the bottom blade holder and tighten Then flip the tension lever and use the back tension adjust if necessary. Once the back tension knob is adjusted it should not have to be adjusted again. the bottom of the blade can extend below the blade holder, but it can NOT extend above the top one. edited cause I have not had enough coffee yet, and again for the same reason, sigh
  2. JimErn
    Very nice, one is in my immediate future too, I hope. Could you tell me where you bought the light you show on the upper arm, it appears to be zip tied?
  3. JimErn
    One way around that is run the conduit and boxes, and the end where you are going to apply the power, put a male end on the romex and plug it in to an existing outlet. Technically that makes it an extension cord. Find two outlets on different circuit breakers, and split the load.
  4. JimErn
    Thanks all. And especially thanks for noting that FD has a flat end spiral, for some reason I scrolled right past it in Mike's listing and ordered the continuous twist - teach me to slow down!
  5. JimErn
    Some of the patterns I am interested in seem designed for spiral blades in the fretwork area, so once again I thought I would try them, the first time was a disaster. I made hockey sticks out of the first two FD spiral blades I tried to mount in the saw. Any tricks to getting them clamped without ruining them? I see Olson makes a spiral with flat ends, I may have to try some of them when I run out of FD spirals if there is no secret technique I can learn. On another note I can not believe that with today's metallurgy scroll saws are still using screws for clamping the blade. Does anyone know of a finger clamp that can be retrofitted?
  6. JimErn
    I'm new too, got my saw from Santa, she shops at Home Depot it seems, but the Porter-Cable. I was breaking blades too, seemingly no rhyme or reason to why or when. I am also cutting the Home Depot poplar sticks. On my saw, when you do not have a blade in it, the bottom blade clamp (top one too) will move forward and back (as you are facing the machine), pivoting. I found that I was inserting the pinless blade into the bottom clamp where it was not straight with the clamp, vertical. Then I learned to use the wood to "push" the blade into the top clamp and just as it hits the back side of the clamp, hold it there and tighten the clamp. Set the tension, and start the saw being ready to shut it down if it breaks, so far so good, I have not (knock on wood) broken a blade in a while now. I set my speed about 3/4, but after reading this thread I will lower it and see if that helps any. The blades I got from Home Depot are average I guess, I ordered Flying Dutchman Ultra Reverse, and wow what a difference the blade makes.
  7. JimErn
    Jerry, good to hear I have company. Personally I think it comes from that old style basic training where when you failed, you learned to succeed cause as one DI used to scream in my ear, "You @$@ #$ @!#$ %#@$#@ you are not allowed to fail." ROFL
  8. JimErn
    I made a new puck for the center of the table too, and it helps with the vibration of the piece being worked on. The factory one was low and sagging in the middle. Once I got used to the blade change method I have no problems with it. My only complaint is the fixed upper arm and feeding the blade into the work. But I agree another machine in the future, 788 or Ex, depending on what shows first in craigslist, until I save "my pennies and dimes" as the old beach boys song said.
  9. JimErn
    Ahh, I bet that forward tilt to the blade is the reason for the comment, I had not seen that tidbit anywhere in my reading, thanks Don. And thanks to all for the insights Jim
  10. JimErn
    I am so new the empty box is still in the garage, but I already know this starter saw is going to have a limited useful life span. So I am reading soaking up what I can, hoping osmosis (one of the few words I remember from HS science) will work. Anyway I ran across a comment somewhere on the net, sorry I did not keep the link, there was a discussion on the ex-21 vs the 788 and one said that the ex-21 would mean you cut slower than with the 788. Since the speed control range is similar, anyone have any idea what they meant?
  11. JimErn
    Thanks to all, I appreciate the welcome.
  12. JimErn
    Santa decided I needed another hobby, so a scroll saw (well a picture of it -she had trouble lifting the box) was under the tree. I'm third generation retired military, stubborn as hell, and so far am enjoying this new endeavor. After looking at the pics some other newbies attached, I need to practice a lot more. Jim
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