DME72
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Everything posted by DME72
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if you look on the motor and see what brand it is i should be be able to get a rough date within a few years. RBI changed motors 3 or 4 times on the ultra series. if it has the black flex air line it is 2002-2003 or newer.
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only the new ultra saws had the square clamps, as far as i have seen. these saws are built to use, and will last many years with some basic maintenance.
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looks like a good saw. if you ask the owner what brand of motor it has it would be easier to tell the date of manufacture. i have a chart from another site i was on that shows what years the various brand motors were used. not exact but a good timeline. is the seller reasonable on the price?
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Excalibur blade hold down T-bolts T-bolts
DME72 replied to Eplfan2011's topic in General Scroll Sawing
i was the one who made the clamps several years ago. they work well. i made my own inserts from 0-1 drill rod that i turned on my metal lathe. i wish Bushton manufacturing would make these for the saws they sell. i made a set for a member on here, but he no longer has the hawk scroll saw. the clamps worked really well at holding small blades. if i have time in the next day or so i will see about posting a picture of the clamps i made. -
looking on bushton website they have lowered the price by $25 on each saw. the bm20 was 1200 last time i looked and is now 1175. most companies are raising the price. just looked at laguna bandsaw model 1412 and they want $1599 when they were $1079 about a year ago! would like to have a bigger better saw for resawing but not for $1599 plus tax! i will end up buying a used bandsaw one of these days. just have to wait and find the right deal. doug
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you will like the new saw. i was fortunate enough to buy a used BM-20 model with less than 10 hours on it. huge difference from my type 1 dewalt. if properly leveled you can do the nickel test! as long as you do the suggested maintenance on the saw it will last a long time. the only thing i had a difficult time with was the blade clamp screw. total different set up than the dewalt type saws. i would not trade my saw for anything. doug
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i also ordered some stuff in the spring of this year and got it pretty quick. not a large order maybe thirty or forty dollars of stuff. they at least seem like they are trying to improve on the ordering and customer service. doug
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dan, does the motor do anything at all? i think it might be able to be fixed as long as the motor is not burned up. i would check the variable speed control box for a fuse. do you have and or know how to use a electrical test meter to do some basic testing? i know from another forum i used to go on MET out of mankato minnesota made a lot of rbi controls for them. dont know if they made them for the a/c motor though. another option is the variable speed controller might be able to be repaired. if the person you got it from did not do a good job with dust collection it might just be saw dust on the contacts of the main switch. it is not always an expensive fix.let us know what you find out. doug
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les, i have a taig lathe, a taig mill and lots of tooling.only thing about the taig is no way to cut threads. you have to use taps and dies. not a big deal as most what i do is small stuff. i bought both for my other hobby of pen making, which i like but nobody wants to buy a pen for the amount of time and money i have in it. i guess i could say the same for my scroll saw stuff also. just a fun hobby. doug
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les, you know mcmaster carr sells the wing knob as well as knurled aluminum knobs. they however do not sell what i made. next time i think i will buy the inserts from seyco and save some time. doug
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here is the picture of what i use to to make the thumb screws. sorry it took so long. doug
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kevin, i am talking about the insert kit. i will try and post pictures after while. doug
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kevin, the plastic ends come seprate from the screws. they sell them in different colors and sizes. they have the big aluminum knurled ones also but i could not come up with a good way to drill them out and still accurate on the hole being centered. if you have a wood lathe and a few tools you could drill the screws out. just go slow. a beall collet chuck and some scrap brass or aluminum rod drilled and threaded to screw thread size and you can drill on a wood lathe. i have done it before i got my taig lathe. doug
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kevin, i tried a drill press. could not get the hole centered right. lots easier on a lathe. bushton would not even supply the blade clamps unthreaded so i could use the clamps from seyco. les the thread on the newer hawk saws is 1/4-20. not sure about the older ones. really thought about buying a set from seyco and just using the inserts but seems like a waste to buy the kit only for the inserts. later this evening i will post a picture of the jig i made to hold the screws on the lathe. les is going to laugh when he sees how easy a jig it is to make. doug
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here is a photo of what i made. insert made of 0-1 drill rod and hardened. i bought a bag of 50 delrin thumb screw, and 50 1/4-20 screws. made a jig to hold the screw on lathe for drilling. it would have gone alot faster if i had bought the inserts from seyco, but i really like to make stuff.as i said in the previous post i dont have an o ring on mine just a dab of grease. it will not fall out. made these because bushton did not and will not offer these. pretty easy to make it just takes a little time. doug
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kevin, that is why i drill those out and make inserts like the dewalt and excaliber saws have. they work great. i made a set awile back for a member on here but i think he has since sold the saw.it is amazing what you can make with a little metal lathe and a few homemade jigs. the inserts i made do not the little o ring in them, but i put a dab of grease in the hole and i cant get an insert to fall out with normal use. i also thought about buying some of the thumbscrew kits from ray at seyco and using those. i just dont think there is enough of a demand for something like this to make it worth the time it takes to make them. it takes the longest time to make the small inserts as they get heat treated after making. let me know if anyone would like to see a picture of the set i made. doug
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every time i have cut plexi or any plastic i always use a crown tooth blade. works great. i dont care for the smell it makes so i dont cut that anymore. doug
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everything i have read on here and other forums is stay away from the china made excalibur saws. are you sure it is china made saw? the seyco would be a real good saw depending on how many hours and what kinda shape it is in, and of course price.a new seyco saw is about $900 or so. if in really great shape and low hours i would think in the $500-600 range. dont see many seyco saws for sale. i have no idea on what a chinese made excalibur is worth. maybe kevin will chime in as he has one, and fixed it also. doug
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Buy used Hawk226VS or Wen 3922 new with warranty?
DME72 replied to Rick Berman's topic in General Scroll Sawing
look at the brand of motor on the saw. fasco was the brand that can not be fixed anymore. i have a list with years they were used.you can replace the motor and controller if they go bad. fasco motors were a/c motors and the ones after are all dc motors.7100 serial would probably be early to mid 90s or somewhere in there.hawk saws are work horses that is why i have 2. if you shop around you can alot of them on facebook marketplace and craigslist. does it have the round barrel clamp on the bottom? if so it is not an ultra saw. doug -
do you want bigger knobs to grip? if that is the case then yes there are options. if you look at mcmaster-carr online catalog they sell thumb screw knobs. i remember the excalibur has m6 metric threads for the clamps. look at item number 91175a064 and 91175a071. the 2nd number is about 1 1/2 inches around. they have several styles and sizes.remember you ONLY need the plastic knob sized to fit m6 metric threads. the plastic knob that is currently on there should come off, they are pressed on. i would put a link in here for you but i dont know how to do that. let me know if you need any more info. doug
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i use 50/50 mix of BLO and mineral spirits. not the green version, the kind in the metal can i think it is kleen strip. let soak for about 10-15 minutes and hang to dry over a foil pan to catch excess. i have never shipped anything but when i did craft shows awhile back that was my finish for scroll saw work. unless it will be handled alot i will use rattle cans of deft satin lacquer i get at home depot since lowes does not carry it anymore. i used to use deft and lacquer thinner on my woodturning projects as a good satin finish but it is not the same formula anymore. too many VOCs in the old deft i guess. doug
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i dont think they meant it as an insult, lots of people cant tell the difference between laser cut or scroll saw. i think they see the detail and just assume it was done with a laser because they have never seen a person cut stuff out on a scroll saw. lots of people now dont know what hand made is anymore. remember most of this younger crowd does not even know what shop class or home economics. doug
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unless you are running big planers and table saws 4 inch should be more than enough. how far of a run are you doing? rockler sells or did sell a pvc to dust collection hose adapter. i think they were about $6-8 or so. make sure you ground the PVC with a grounding wire kit to discharge static electric. how many CFM is your dust collector?
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a while back steve good had an article about making a homemade sanding mop. i made one and it still works good, i use it in my drill press.use only light pressure and it works great.but it will fling pieces if i am not careful. might want to check the taper on the drill chuck and make sure there is no oil or debris on either part and reassemble it. i have never had one come loose.put it on and give it a tap with a dead blow mallet to seat it. doug
