DME72

i have never heard of a 14 inch hawk. seen the pictures of the 216 220 226 series of saws but never a 14 inch. was that from the 1980s or so?

i was thinking about buying it but i dont really need it. i would like to sell my type 1 dewalt and buy another hawk. the dewalt motor is almost 300 dollars if it goes out! it has been a great saw but it is 19 years old now. tore it down and repacked all the bearing and got new sleeves for it 3-4 years ago. they dont last forever.my other saw if i ever get it done as it is a work in progress i dont have to worry about the motor going out as it is pedal power.not an antique but a reproduction one.

it is on facebook marketplace and they want $300 for it. only one picture of it. been on there at least a week with another hawk a RBI 220 it looks like. they want $595 for it. the jr hawk looks neat but only has one side plate and the arms. it bolts down to a table and from the website kevin posted it only weighs about 35 pounds.

kevin, thanks for all the info. dont think i will buy it but it looked like a neat little saw. i already have 3 scroll saws and dont really need a 4th one. but if a really good deal pops up you never know.

that web page is the only info i have seen on the junior hawk. the one for sale has the old style RBI tension lever in back as bushton has the blue lever. JT it does not look anything like what you posted. kevin it looks like what tool-rank website reviewed. the fact that bushton does not even list anything on its website about it may mean if it breaks i may not be able to fix it. i am just thinking about it, looks like a neat little saw.

has anyone on here ever seen or heard of a junior hawk scroll saw? seen one online for sale but cant really find alot of info about it. they are 16 inch cutting capacity and look like a small 220vs or 226vs. but the motor is in the back like a excalibur or dewalt scroll saw is. looks like it would be a great portable scroll saw but not really sure. bushton has no reference on the manuals under any model they have, at least none i have found.

JT you should ask bushton if they are not going to get those parts anytime soon if you can just replace the front cam. that part is about $12 or so. but not sure if it will fit the older saw like you have. it might be worth asking to get you by until the upgraded parts arrive. also are you talking about the roll pin that goes thru the lower blade clamp? on my BM20 it has a roll pin and the whole lower blade clamp snaps in and out to change blades. also a well stocked hardware store should have roll pins, you may have to grind a little of the end if too long. mcmaster-carr sells alot of that stuff too. you can buy all the parts to make your own clamp knobs at home.

JT exactly what parts do you need for the saw. i read that it was clamps, and yes the clamps have changed. it sounds like you need the front cam that holds the front tension lever. you can cheat and buy you some time and file a flat on there. it is my understanding the edges get rolled over or rounded. it is no fun at all waiting for parts, but bushton will come through. may take some time. most of the parts that wear out like would not be that difficult to make, if you had a small metal lathe and mill. another member on here tried to get bushton to supply unthreaded blade holders so he could use the dewalt/excalibur style thumb screws. he never got an answer as far as i know. i made him a set in 1/4-20 to try out. my point is there are not really a ton of parts to wear out on that saw. if anything goes wrong on my hawk i would rather tear it apart than my 788. been there done that! bushton will come through for you.

i think part of the problem is Bushton is a small company and like most small companies alot depends on outside vendors. dont think it is right that it has taken this long but you should have been informed about the wait. or if you dont like the wait time get a refund. i am sure a local machine shop would be more than happy to make a few clamps for you, you WILL NOT like the price it costs. it is really not that complex of a part to make by the looks of it. it is all set up time on equipment to make it. i for one went from a dewalt 788 to a BM20 and it was a big learning curve. my main thing is i did not like the clamps. i was used to the dewalt/excalibur style thumb screw with the rotating inserts. after making new clamp knobs with inserts like the dewalt i would not trade that saw for anything. i am glad i kept the BM20 saw.

Pozsgai no longer offers the delta quick clamp to fit a hawk scroll saw. delta stopped making them a while back. i have heard that harbor freight scroll saws have a copy of the delta clamp on them but have not verified this as of yet. maybe worth a look i dont know.

steve good has some on his website. keychains, earrings, etc. all free.

call them up and talk to one of the people in service or find a rep in your state. they still list that exact board on the website.if you have some basic troubleshooting skills they can probably help you pinpoint what is wrong.

based on the qc4100 number it looks like it was made by quantum controls of MN. dont know what they cost but i am pretty sure they can point you in the right direction as to what might be wrong.

if you go to a good electronics parts supply place they should be able to help you or know someone who can. most of those parts are only a few dollars, just have to find out which one.

marley also makes wall heaters in 208/230 volt.

for about $125 or so you can get a fan forced 1500 watt heater made by marley. i just installed some at work. all you need is a dedicated 115 volt 20 amp circuit.they even have an adjustable t-stat on them.they work great for a small space.

welcome. my favorite blades are #2 or for really fine work i will use a #2/0. what kind of shape is the hawk saw in? does it have the round barrel clamp on bottom or the ultra style? either way that is a great price! have any pics of the new saw. doug

in theory you would really only need the top clamp modified for the swivel if you bottom feed like me. i have really been thinking about buying a few extra clamp knobs from bushton and ordering the clamp renewal kit from seyco for about $7. the end of the swivel for the EX clamp is a bit smaller than 1/4 inch about .175 or so. i would like to try and make one from a 1/4-20 clamp and the inserts from seyco, even though they are a hair smaller i really think they would work good. just have to find a way to clamp the knob so it will not move while i drill it out. should only need a small center drill and correct size drill bit. this will be a test just to see if it works when i get it done. maybe next week. doug

when i called last week and talked to them they said the stickers are left over from RBI. you would think that because they are not correct they would not use them. manual also says that is a general starting point for the tension and may need to be adjusted some. with all that said it is a learning experience to go from a 788 to a hawk. i finally got the blade change down pretty good but still struggle with bending the 2/0 blades. i am just going to see how much less i can tighten the clamps without the blade slipping or pop out.have not had as many pop out as i have hockey stick ends. maybe i am just afraid the blade will pop out if i under tighten it. doug

the setscrews are locktite in the clamp body so they should not move unless someone messed with it. if they were not locktite in everytime you tighten the knob it would back it out a small amount and then the two blade holders would not be set true to one another. doug

i dont know if anyone knows this but the rotating thumbscrew clamps like the ex and dewalt have looks like they would be easy to make if you had the right tools. the rotating part pulls right out and is only held in place by a small groove with an o ring for some friction to keep it from falling out. i know that seyco sells the kit to refurbish your ex/ dewalt clamps for $6-8 if memory is correct. if somebody on here is a good machinist they could probably modify the bushton t knob clamps to be rotating like the ex style clamps, although i dont know what type of steel is used on them or how long it would take to do. or if bushton would sell 6mmx1 threaded blade clamps bodies you could use the clamps from a ex/dewalt saw. just a thought. doug

hotshot, i am using olsen 2/0R blades. i got this saw because i know my type1 dewalt will not last forever. now #2 and #5 work really well. 2/0 blades get all bent up on the top,yes i bottom feed. lately i have cut a bunch of puzzles with #5 and it is sweet cutting.try and cut something else with a 2/0 after the 5th cut or so the end is bent up and wont feed thru the hole in the wood. i suspect i am heavy handed and putting too much tension on the blade holders causing them to bend the blade. how often do the hawk blade clamps have to be cleaned up with sandpaper? doug

does the hockey stick blade mean i am using too much tension or tightening the blade clamps too tight? tension is right at 12 like the manual says. the sticker on the saw says different. i called bushton and she said to use what it says in the manual as a guideline. my thought is i am used to the dewalt blade clamps and i am putting too much torque on the clamps. doug

i get the bent blades with my bm20 saw. only on the 2/0 blades though. i tried to lighten how hard i twist the blade clamps and the blade pulled out. i have only been using this saw about a month or so. in my experience the bm20 saw seems better to cut thick wood like puzzles and boxes and stuff with a bigger blade. i have tried to do some fretwork earrings with 2/0 blades and get the bent blade effect. has anybody else had the bent blade trouble? doug

UPDATE went back inside an read the manual again on blade clamping. as it turns out i did not have the blade in the bottom clamp all the way. the manual has a short sentence about it and that is all. made about 10 inside cuts and the blade change went alot smoother. yes i am still learning to use this brand of saw. i do not mind asking for help or ideas, several people on here commented about the clamps. i feel they could be different but it will take some getting used to i guess.now to the poster that said i was BASHING HAWK saws i stated what is my thoughts on my saw.yes it was user error on my part and i have learned something new. the same poster then turns around and bashes dewalt saws saying they will fall apart and that china loves this,well to bad my saw is a type 1 made by excalibur in canada! they did not start making them in china until after excalibur stopped making them about 2003 i believe. maybe that poster needs to start offering help instead of saying i asked for help then snapped when i got it. first off a couple people on here asked what the problem is that i am having.turns out it was user error.several people also said it is a bit of an adjustment to go from cutting on a dewalt saw to a hawk. then jttheclockman said i should go ahead and sell my saw and buy several dewalts because i will need them.yes i was upset with the saw but that was my fault, lack of use and understanding and such. jttheclockman has not offered ANY help, other than to say he hates to hear this type of BASHING,but does not offer any help or ask what could be done to help. yes i still think the hawks could use some modifications,just my thoughts. if someone gives a saw a review and does not give it 100% is it bashing? i dont think so. you will not build anything and have everyone like it! what i said is my thought on that saw. yes i still feel they are a little high on the price. now i am going to try and do some inside cut and blade changes.thanks to the people who offered to help. doug DME72