Rolf

Welcome to the group and the Hobby! Good start with your saw selection. I also have a digital embroidery machine and other "toys" Not all blades cut to the side, You have a great saw. I suggest getting blade assortments to try. The Olson blades I used for my detailed ornaments Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI (teeth per inch) cut off to my right dramatically, I learned to compensate by sitting off to the side a bit. I now mostly use Pegas blades. With time and experience you will find your 'Comfort blades".

I have a central DC Jet Vortex DC 1100 VX with canister filter. It is connected to a 4" network to all of my Machines. I do have a couple of 2" drops for small cleanup. Those drops are not nearly as effective/efficient as a regular High velocity SHOP VAC. For every turn, bend or drop you lose a percentage of flow. This system should be connected to a shop vac not a DC. Probably OK for sanding dust. I don't see it working very well for normal turning with bigger chips flying.

Have you cut a different softer wood with the same thickness to see if it behaves the same.? Another thought cut the same wood in the opposite direction from the piece pictured above.

I have the line splitter that Sycamore67 posted. A true test would be to have an in line ammeter. I don't have those resources since I retired.

I measured my Hawk yesterday. It was less than one amp. I used a clip on meter with a line splitter. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IRLJTGA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Yes that was me. Just for curiosity I will put an ammeter on both to see if there is a significant difference. I am more inclined to think that it is line noise created my the speed controllers. Unfortunately my O scope is not working so can't look at that.

Nicely done! I worked on the F4 flight simulator for several years in Germany and in England, Loved that airplane.

In all fairness to the magazine they have maintained a nice variety for all levels. It is really beneficial to new scrollers that have not yet found their Scrolling "Happy" place. I demonstrate scrolling for two days at our Woodworking clubs annual event. At the scrollsaw tables we have our projects on display and for the last couple of years our members have each picked a pattern out of one magazine. We have three test cutters in the club and hand out our extra copies for interested people. Those of us that have been at it for a while hopefully know what we like to make. Me, I am all over the place and need a challenging variety.

Ye I agree with the inconvenience the pull out section is for many. Scanning if not done carefully can create all sorts of issues as can not having your printer setting set correctly. The following is my personal opinion regarding e-patterns and the magazine. I think the concern is that the sharing of patterns would impact sales. The majority of the folks on these forums play by the rules but it really ticks me off when someone says " just scan the image and trace it" . That mindset hurts not only the Magazines but also the designers. Of course I purchase the DVD of the magazines as soon as they are released, makes it easier to find specific patterns. I posted an image of a very personal Intarsia piece that I designed , in very short time someone, I am being polite, posted a picture of a copy they made of it. They were subsequently kicked of the group.

Don, for the test cutting they send me an electronic copy of the project along with how they want it finished. Sometimes, if necessary, I make minor corrections to the pattern. I do the test cuts months in advance long before they are printed. I include a write up of my process, blades etc. But most times they go with what the designer suggests. After they are photographed they send me a copy of the article for proofing then send them back to me. For anything else in the magazine I scan and print what I need. I did buy all of the CD's that they have released. so I have all the electronic patterns from them also.

John T, do you consider Charles Hand and Fiona's designs beginner? or Judy Gale Roberts and Jannett Square's Intarsia work?. I have cut ALOT of John Nelsons designs, many for the magazine as a test cutter. Sadly they are all ,for the most part, sitting in boxes in my basement. The generation that loved frilly work like that is for most part gone. I think long time scrollers like yourself and myself don't find many projects "challenging" anymore. We are comfortable with our tools and skills that is one reason I get away from my saw now and the to do some turning or wrenching on my 54 year old Brit sports car. Owned since 1972. Personally I mostly do projects that light my fire and I am also designing my own projects on occasion. I belong to a club with lots of new members and the magazine has a perfect mix for all levels. Three of us in the club do test cutting for FC. Most are fast fun cuts,

I have not seen that. But thinking about it when was the last time you or myself for that matter, actually looked for a magazine rack when you went to Lowes, Home depot or any other store? I am always in a hurry to find what I need to finish a project. As a test cutter I have cut many projects that would normally not have been on my to do list. And have been pleasantly surprised at the end. It has opened my eyes to a broader spectrum of projects. For those of you that don't find any interesting new projects have you ever sent them a note with things you would like to see? The cost for a subscription is about what lunch out costs my wife and I, at least around here.

You should never feel that way. All of these discussions should be informative. Getting feedback from long time scrollers using a particular brand, and what features about them they really like is very helpful for folks looking to buy a saw. As I have said before, I was blessed to have a local club with some incredibly talented long time scrollers, Most used Hegners, the rest of us (in 2004) had an assortment. I had a Delta SS350 at the time, great saw. The club gave me the opportunity to try different saws. The Hegners more vertical stroke made it easier for me to do the delicate work that I like. I was starting to do larger projects and wanted to be able to top feed. At that time the Hawk G4 was just released, it was bigger and top fed so that was my choice. Otherwise it would have been a Hegner. For those that say you can do great work with an inexpensive saw Yes you can, I have. But I quickly realized I did not have the patience for tedious blade changes. Like my old Craftsman, Over a minute for a few second cut NOPE! not for me.

To answer the original ? I don't thing there is more stress on the parts. The linkage saws have more bearings. Rough count My Hawk G4 has about has 5 not counting the motor. A monster bearing on the motor, two in the pitman arm and one in each arm pivot. I think the upper pitman arm is a bushing not a bearing. My EX-16 has about 18 small bearings. The problem with them has been dry bearings from the factory. The Dewalts were notorious for it. I have rebuilt 3 EX saws for a couple of friends. The pitman arm bearing was seized completely on one. These saws were not in abusive environments. They also did not have many hours on them. As I writing this I think I need to look at how many hours I have put on my used EX. Yes I did tear it down when I got it and re-lubed all of the bearings.

My thoughts. I have had my Hawk G4-26 since 2005. If you look at the Mass from the pivot point forward and compare it to the EX style. saw The EX has a lot less constantly changing in the vertical direction. I would expect the EX to be smoother.

Marie C, great pictures! I did not glue any of the PVC joints as periodically some bits get caught in the bends. @Scrappile Clever use of leftover bits. for you small parts catcher.

Dan great job, it is also on my long list of things I want to do. I had the pleasure of meeting Dick at one of Fox Chapels open houses and saw display with all of the different carved panels.

I am not on this forum as much I would like, but I would like to thank all of you for displaying your beautiful work and sharing ideas and designs. Rolf

The saw looks great! as far as transporting it. I used to take mine to our annual woodworking show in my Jeep Grand Cherokee, Not sure how it would fit in the Outback. I put Cardboard on the floor of the Jeep with it hanginout the back a bit lean the saw on it lift the legs and slide it in. But it is a bit more manageable to remove the legs and transport it that way. Since Kevin mentioned the wheels, I took another look at the pictures. The wheels were an option along with the handle up front. It makes moving it around the shop a lot easier. It is still heavy. The handle is also useful for another reason. I clip a plastic bag to it with clothespins and drop my cut offs in it.

$275 is an absolute bargain!!! The saw sounds fine. I did buy my Hawk in May of 2005. I think Kevin is correct on the time frame. One big difference between the G4 and the rest of the Hawks is the body of the saw is cast iron instead of aluminum. The saw is about 100 lbs. Since 2005 I have only done a couple of minor repairs. It still has the original bellows even though I purchased a spare. It has paid for most of the tools in my shop, just in Christmas sales. The original saw had a slight crown in the table and Hawk sent me a replacement. I believe the G4 was the last model produced before the company was sold to Bushton MFG.

I did buy my Hawk in May of 2005. I think Kevin is correct on the time frame. One big difference between the G4 and the rest of the Hawks is the body of the saw is cast iron instead of aluminum. The saw is about 100 lbs. Since 2005 I have only done a couple of minor repairs. It still has the original bellows even though I purchased a spare. It has paid for most of the tools in my shop, just in Christmas sales. The original saw had a slight crown in the table and Hawk sent me a replacement. I believe the G4 was the last model produced before the company was sold to Bushton MFG.

Actually 1.5mm. Surprisingly robust.

I also use the spindle mounted MAC Mop, 240 (I think) And Yes I do use it on delicate work. I support the delicate parts on a flat piece of wood, In this picture a Christmas ornament 1/16 Baltic birch. It takes a delicate touch but I have not lost one yet.

There is a tension quick release up front.(hard to see in the picture) The only time you use the rear is when going from a very small blade to a larger one. The rest of the time you do not need to touch the back cam.

I have always thought 1/4 makes a clunky looking ornament. I have used it in certain hardwoods. I cut most of my ornaments in 1.5mm (1/16), I may have to go to 3mm (1/8) as my source has changed ownership and no longer carries my thin stuff. I bought the last tree sheets 50" x 50" . The little angel is 1/16 the other set is 1/8 natural woods layered(the natural ones were for the current SSWWC issue)