Rolf

I have a California Air tools Compressor 1.6 gallon Super quiet! My wife bought it for me along with a Vortex F5 power carver. The compressor is really quiet and I use it with my air brush. The Harbor Freight https://www.harborfreight.com/air-tools-compressors/air-compressors-tanks/1-gallon-135-psi-ultra-quiet-hand-carry-jobsite-air-compressor-64592.html Fortress brand has gotten good reviews and is a clone of the California compressors. (Personally I would go with the 2 gallon) I would recommend a compressor with a tank as the tankless one will run continuously with constant noise. I find that to be annoying and a distraction. Air brush I recently bought a Badger 105 Patriot. it is good for what I want to do I also have an Aztec that I bought 20+ years ago. All of require cleaning which usually takes longer than the actual painting. As you see in Bad Bobs picture you will end up with lots of accessories besides paint, This is great https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0154HN2NA/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 It combines a holder and cleaning capture vessel.

Thanks for the kind comments. I had been to the Museum back in the 80's. One of my friends volunteers there as a model builder for the displays. he made the connection for the club. He also gave me a tour of the rest of the museum. It cornicles the history of aviation on Long Island. WOW. what was accomplished long before computers bogles my mind. A view from a small part of the area from the balcony. Also some fretwork, two are Charles Hand designs , I did the winter scene and Wolf, my friend Bob did the summer cottage and the big intarsia. The paper cut looking piece is one of the several scrollers that really showed me the fretwork techniques when I first started crolling.

The Show was great! We were setup in the main entrance which is a huge atrium with lots of natural light. A very busy three days Friday was setup and then Saturday and Sunday. We had to be completely out by 5 on Sunday. It will take me a bit to go through my pictures. This is a picture of one of the Scrollers tables, my friends Bob and Joe (also test cutters for the magazine) We raffle off the tree with all of the ornaments. Also on the table are two of my clocks that draw in lots of people. The other is our group project where we all take a project out of one issue. and the other is with my Intarsia piece that got a first place ribbon.

I will do what I can on the pictures. I think there will be a $16 entry fee which is for the museum no additional charge for our show . Parking is free. Club members are free, at least those of us that are working it.

Getting excited! this is our "Long Island Woodworkers" first show since the Pandemic started. It is also the first time at this venue. All aspects of woodworking will be represented and demonstrated within reason. The scrollers will have saws setup, the turners a couple of lathes with on going demonstrations. I made the Koala's in the middle of the flyer back in 2009. I am really looking forward to seeing what our members have created in the last three years.

I really liked that video. It is an impressive bit of work. It should never see a knife. The design and tooling setup with all of the calculations is whole different level of calculations. To do that same project as a hand cut beveled inlay is not a project I would want to tackle.

Kevin, I really like your post! We haven't gone to any craft fairs in a few years now. Due to a lack of quality vendors many have allowed the "schlock" vendors in. Poorly made Yard art was the only wood based stuff that I have seen. There was one turner at the last show and he did have some exceptional pieces. He is now a friend, and did very well at a local art fair. but not so well at a craft fair in the same village. The last time I saw any Intarsia it looked like it was covered in high gloss plastic. He finally confessed that it was made in Vietnam not by him. Lots of illegal Disney stuff. I use my small desktop Laser Engraver for putting on my logo and signing pieces. I have also made a few Custom photo engraved ornaments for people that have lost their pets. I don't and won't charge for them. I have waffled on purchasing a CNC Router. I considered going into custom routed signs. I have done a few Freehand routed ones and that was fun. I don't have much space left and I don't thing I want to expand my product line at this point. Instead will start to do more Intarsia pattern designs and also more wood turning instead.

I just started making a Sue Mey multi layer nativity. It has 4 layers 3mm BB. It is not as smooth as I like so I cut the 8" W x 60" long strips put 220 paper on my drum sander and one light pass on each side and done. I would rather be cutting and building than spending hours sanding.

My nephews in-laws own a memorial business, they get some of the best pallet wood I have ever seen. He has made some beautiful pieces with it. I run it through the drum sander first removes any grit then dimension in the planer. Regarding the Jointer Good grippy push pads such as the Gr gripper line are a must.

In no way will it replace a planer. It is like the Sand flee and meant to flatten and sand a small amount of wood at a time.

Putting my system on the Hawk G4 26 was easy as there is so much room, on the top and bottom. The entire assembly is held on to my Hawk with Mag switches. I can easily move it to my EX 16. But there is not as much room for the nozzles especially on the bottom. I have a design in mind to work around that when I have time. I put a metal plate on my EX table so that the Mag switches had something to grab. What ever system you use I highly recommend a trap in line with the vacuum. You WILL suck up some small part that you want to keep, digging through a bag of dust is not fun and re-cutting that perfect piece can be tricky. I may make a new trap so it acts like a Cyclone. For now the screen works

Dan what grit are you using on the Grizzly? If I have to remove a lot of wood on the drum sander I will use 80 or even 60, especially on pallet wood which i will not put through my planer. Kevin I agree the tools are expensive but in my case a big part of my hobby is the tools! And I have access to any thickness I need at any time. It would be nice to have a local resource like you have available.

I have both a planer Dewalt DW735 and I also have a Super Max 19-38. As the others have said they serve different purposes. Also a 6" jet jointer JJ-6CSdx. I do other work than scrolling. The drum sander is not meant for large stock removal! Also not all are created equal, especially when comes to changing the paper. The Super max people have made it very easy, it only takes a couple of minutes to change my paper. Very sappy wood will load it up quickly. I also Highly recommend adding digital readout to both the planer and the drum sander. I use a fair amount of 1/8 wood, You can plane that thin but it gets a bit sketchy. Grain direction is critical or it will explode. I buy rough sawn lumber depending on the width I will joint or plane one side then re-saw leaving a bit of excess, if it will be 1/4 or above I will plane it. Any thing less will go through the drum sander. I have had issues with my planer tearing out chunks on curly maple salvaged by using the Drum sander. My baltic Birch sheets (1/8 and 1/16) are not as smooth as I would like for my ornaments so I used to cut the squares the sand each side on a Sandflee with 220. very time consuming. I now cut a strip and with 220 paper on the drum sander run it through 1 light pass. If the paper is properly installed and tight to the drum I have gone as thin as .040" for some home made veneer.

Seems I remember them being in the front window of the barbershop when I was Kid.

Roberta what a great idea! well done!

I think I have filled my quota for puzzles this season. It will be interesting to see how they sell.

This was the 57th puzzle that I test cut for the "20 minute puzzle book" . It is not in the book but a separate mini book and it took more than 20 minutes. I also did not color it, the staff at FC did. I label each animal with my small desktop laser engraver. 3/4 Maple and I cut all of the puzzles with a Pegas MGT 1 (13 TPI) as I wanted minimum gaps between the pieces.

Nice Job Barbara! The lady Bug is one of my favorites and I like how you colored it. What did you use to color it? I am not familiar with Osmos finish. I finished all of the puzzles with Danish oil, never again I can't stand the smell. My favorite in the book is still the Penguin tower. I had never really cut puzzles until they asked me to cut these for the book. There were actually 57. The 57th was a Noah's ark with all of the individual animals (will do a new post so as not hijack Barbs). That is being sold as a separate printing. I received the patterns in groups of 10, good thing after the first ten I was questioning myself as to what I had gotten myself into. These puzzles are a great exercise in scrolling discipline. After 18 years I still push sideways a bit when I get tired. you can't do that with puzzles.

I don't know how John does it, but I have a router table set up with a 1/8 round over for the small ones and 3/16 or 1/4 for larger projects. Then a MAC mop. Many years ago I got a Christmas ornament from John it showed me how projects should feel!

John, Just as I remember you are the master painter! your wood finishing is the best I have seen. will these be gifts or will you be selling them?

I was talking to my nephew about this on Fathers day, I have given him many of my tools as I upgrade. He has done a wide spectrum of projects furniture turnings etc. He has purchased a small desktop CNC for engraving his logo. He suggested that I upgrade mine instead of just my first name.

I have used that method by just printing the image on a laser printer (not ink jet) and acetone. I have also used one of these heat transfer tools that I found at a yard sale.https://www.dickblick.com/products/transfer-tool/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=60101-0000&gclid=Cj0KCQjwkruVBhCHARIsACVIiOxPI7czTdu8yj7m75gXKJPKYsxnz6p6Kwxaq2lyBS2BtkxMDNb6OycaAix7EALw_wcB

That is a beautiful font! Transfer, as in graphite paper?

I have mine mounted on a board. It is about 16 x12 " . I put it on the table plug in the power and the USB connector. Start the program, I use Lightburn, and I am good to go. The rest is software settings. The laser is on at a very low power so I can see where my start point is. It probably took me longer to write this than to set it up.

I now sign all of my work with a small tabletop laser. Much easier and controlled, especially on wood that has hard and soft grains.