Rolf

I drink my liquor, My Grand Marnier is too expensive to spray on my wood.

I worked at a National Lab (BNL) in a variety of capacities (loved my job) but primarily a Technician. managed a semiconductor processing lab, a machine shop and got to design and build one of a kind gadgets. I can't think of a better job, That said the Physicists would walk into my office with crazy ideas for things that did not yet exist. They and many of the Engineers where absolutely brilliant but had never built anything. Talk about over complicating things. That is where my moto below kicked in. We had a great balance their brilliance kept me challenged and employed.

As Kevin pointed out, the cutting is a small part of the time you consume especially when doing fretwork. That becomes very saw dependent. It literally takes me seconds to switch holes on my Hawk G4. If you have a lower end saw with clamps that require tools that time goes up dramatically. Blade TPI and of course experience will also impact the cut times significantly.

For many years starting in 2004 I used the Olson 2/0 R 28TPI blade for cutting all of my detailed ornaments. They cut slower and gave me better control for all of the details. I used to buy them from Sloans., since they have retired I decided to switch brands and with many years of scrolling under my belt went with a faster cutting blade. I now use the Pegas 2/0 R MGT with only 15 TPI for the same detailed work. The TPI on a blade is what really makes the difference more so than the blade number. This sleigh is one of my all time favorite ornaments , a BJ Holmes design. I stack cut them 6 up 1/16 BB (1.5mm).

Eclipse saws as in multiple?

Barbara I have had a need for some fine wire on occasion, I can't remember what I used it on. But I know where to find it. I also have a very big spool of fine magnet wire that I rescued when I retired. We used to have a spool winding machine for making custom inductors and coils in the old analog electronics days.

Yes I did shape both sides, that way I can face it either way. I am setup for serious Intarsia shaping so it doesn't take that much extra time. the smaller areas do take time.

Huge thank you to Frank EV!! I saw this Frank EV. design and new that I had to cut it. I absolutely love it. It is cut from 3/4 maple and the base is black walnut. Pegas MGT 1 and cut the base at 10 degrees. I did some shaping like I was doing Intarsia. For the internal shaping I used a Rampower hand piece with assorted burrs and small sanding drums. Pegas MGT 1 and cut the base at 10 degrees. Two coats of Danish oil and then a couple of coats satin wipe on poly just to add some highlights. This is the darkest black walnut I have ever seen. From a neighbors tree.

The issue has the aardvark ramp walkers on the cover

I found a copy of it on my computer so I must have downloaded it at the time. I want to modify the design so that instead of using the 2 inch port I will be able to fit the nozzle of my existing setup into it from the left side of the saw. I don't have a 3d printer but our library does. Regarding the table, when mine gets to a point where it bothers me I will sand off the remaining finish and wax the plain metal.

Ray it is 1-1/2 x 3/4 x 3" and the pattern was in one of last years SSWWC issues. It is in the Spring 2021 issue of SSWWC. It is a Diana Thompson design.

Glad to see that you are on the mend! I could not imagine being out of my shop for that long. I lovemaking the reindeer, not as many as you. Giving them as gifts like that is a wonderful idea! I usually cut the small ones at our wood working show it is fun to watch the reactions people have when the little guy falls out of the middle. I usually use Cherry when I make the real small ones or any tight grained wood.

The last time I bought some a 60 x 60 " 1/8 (3mm) sheet cost me $15 a 50 x 50 inch sheet of 1/16 (1.5mm) was $44 August 2019 I am sure those prices have gone up.

Kevin, I already have a great dust collection setup that uses my Festool vacuum at low speed and it is reasonably quiet. But with the multiple holes in the EX table the bottom nozzle is not as effective as the top. What I want to do is design a setup that I can connect to my existing nozzle and covers all of the holes from the bottom and not interfere with my blade change and clamps. While looking for this picture I found a design file that someone did for a Pegas . It is made for the 2" port which I don't want but may give me a design start.

I vaguely remember someone posting a replacement 3d printed lower dust port for the Excalibur saws. If not has anyone created such a thing. I was about to design a better version than the membrane bit but if someone else has already done one it would save me some design time.

The mat can also can be useful when routing smaller pieces.

LOL yes I do love my gadgets and tools. I think Santa my be bringing me a couple of new ones this year. In anticipation I will have to do some purging of stuff.

After my family moved to the US from Germany in 1955 our relatives continued to send us Christmas gifts made in the Erzgeberge. Until it became too expensive. As a teen my Mom worked in a bakery a few store fronts away from where Volker Arnold had/has? a shop in Dresden. His designs have been a major influence in why I started scrolling. The Ornament pictured in my prior post was my first ornament. Except I cut it out of 1/8 bb back then.

I pre sand all of my surfaces. and after I am done cutting a light kiss on the MAC mop (240 grit) finishes it. I hate hand sanding that is why I have pretty much one of every sanding tool.

Number one is to enjoy the cutting. I have been at it since 2004. I stack cut my ornaments 6 at a time (1/16 BB) When I started it took me almost 2hours and a lot of broken blades to cut the on pictured. I used Olson 2/0 R 28 TPI blades because of the details. The ornament is 4". It now takes me about 40 min (lots of small holes) with a faster cutting Pegas 2/0 R 15TPI blade and no broken blades. The first saw was the Delta SS350 and now I use either a Hawk G4 or and EX 16. So the bottom line is you will get faster with experience but as the other have pointed out speed is very dependent on the type of wood and blade and a biggie is the amount of detail.

Where are you getting these patterns? They really are fun. Foxfold. Good tension, properly adjusted saw (blade perpendicular to the table) A quality blade. Allow the blade to cut without pushing too hard and not pushing sideways in the turns. PRACTICE! you will be a wizard in no time.

Getting back to the original ? Back in 2005 when I decided to buy a new saw to replace my very! aggressive Delta SS350. I used both the Hegner, which was the most prevalent saw being used by the best scrollers in our club. We only had one member with a pre G4 Hawk and the rest of us had a mix. The Hawk won as it suited my cutting style. The fact that you needed a tool on the Hegner clamps annoyed me. The arm on the Hawk was/is spring loaded and went higher so it was out of the way when bottom feeding. Then the G4 was released and they moved the lower clamps in front of the table tilt, all of the clamps were tool less. So that was the way I went. The Hegners and Hawks are excellent saws so the decision which way to go is a matter of what fits your style of scrolling. Unfortunately if you are not as lucky as I was to have access to a large cross section of saws like I had/ have in our club the decision is not so easy. The only time I have seen all the saw represented at a show was at the last FC open house. My suggestion is try to find a local club or scroller that has a saw you want to try. I still have my Hawk G4 and now an Ex 16 with the Pegas clamps. I use the EX 16 for any bevel cutting that I do. And to throw a wrench into the works, if I were buying a new saw with all of the features I like it would be the Pegas. The main reason for that choice, along with the fact that it can do everything my Hawk can do the table stays level and the arm moves. If you plan on doing any beveled inlays it makes a real difference.

I may tear down my G4 motor after the holidays and check the the bearings. I don't remember ever checking them since 2005. The only issue I am having is that the connector pin at the pitman arm and lower arm keeps walking out. Have to see what that is all about.

Good for you! When people ask me about buying older Hawks I always suggest staying away from the older ones. When I first tried a Hawk it was a pre G4 model and you had to reach around the Table tilt mechanism to get at the lower clamp. and it did not top feed. I still preferred it over the Hegner that I was trying. The main reason was that there was more room under the upper arm for my style of scrolling. The G4 was a dramatic redesign.

I know this is off subject. But my wife bought me my first good Scroll saw The Delta SS350 at our clubs annual show for my birthday back in 2004. A year later I bought the Hawk G4 26 because of all the great new design features. Top feeding, adjustable front/back stroke. The Hawk has made a lot of money for me and even more priceless joy. My wife does all of the inventory, painting and boxing. She has also bought me some really exceptional tools and the occasional bottle of Grand Marnier.