Rolf

I put hour meters on my saws to get an idea of the actual run time. Wow $1800 for the Hegner 22 inch. As frivolous as I am about spur of the moment tool purchases, that would give me pause for a scroll saw. But then again I paid $1200 for my Hawk in 2005. Worth every penny! I was running it yesterday at a very slow speed and I hear a squeak. time to investigate. They are great saws

I agree with Kevin, I have been using my Hawk G4 26 since 2005, with very minor maintenance issues. I now also have a EX 16 (used) with Pegas clamps, took it all apart and re-lubed everything.

I have made three clocks that were published by SSWWC magazine. Two were designed by Brian Law the third by Alfred Mifsud. I will say that all wooden clocks require attention to detail and some mechanical aptitude and patience to get them running correctly. The first one was is a pendulum clock that is weight driven. Most of the shafts are brass except for the main shaft which is now steel. The second one is more complex and is more of a novelty /fascination than a time keeper. It has a spring in it. I take that one to shows as it really draws people into the booth or our clubs display table. The last is the most accurate and and in my opinion the easiest to build. The gears don't really mesh so cutting them is a bit more forgiving. It has a electromagnetic drive. and a weird "daisy wheel" reduction that is hard to wrap your head around. Fox Chapel has a book "Making Wooden Gear clocks" And I have been selling a metal hardware kit for the gear clock, for those that don't have the resources to to make some of the metal bits. There are lots of clock designs out there and building one and then getting it to run is incredibly satisfying! At least it was for me. At some point I will build a Clayton Boyer clock.

Ray, interesting videos. Thanks.

Harpolemond, Since I am not doing a live presentation I will not be doing a power point. This will be a Zoom presentation for club members only. Even when we were still meeting I usually just worked with an outline and winged it. The only time I did more formal presentations was at the Fox Chapel open houses. I used power point there. I am lucky to be a member of the Long Island Woodworkers club. It incorporates all forms of woodworking. We have several special interest groups S.I.G.s scrollers, turners, carvers cabinet makers etc. I have learned so much from this group. My learning curve was dramatically accelerated when I joined in 2002. We have scrollers that have been at it for over 60+ years. A bit of bragging here. We have a carver that has had several articles in Woodcarving Illustrated, Furniture makers in Fine woodworking magazine and there are three of us that do test cutting for SSWWC magazine. I have done a fair number of project for the magazine since 2010. I had no idea the this wonderful hobby has taken me where it has. Bottom line. If you have a local club join it, if you don't maybe form one.

I am currently working on a blade presentation for our Scrolling club. I have started to use more Pegas blades as I go along. Unfortunately one of the resources I lost after retiring was the digital Microscopes on my workbench, or I would get some really great images. But here are a few I took with my cell phone. Comparing a 2/0R Olson 28TPI and the Pegas MGT 2/0R Kevin I never noticed any length differences. On the Hawk I tweak the tension for each new blade if need be. On the EX 16 with Pegas clamps I lower the blade a bit in the upper clamp to back off on the tension a bit, or the EX seems to over tension the small blades, I get no excessive breakage. Ike the Olson Mach series is a great blade. I also still use the Olson 2/0 R 28TPI blade for my Detailed Ornament stacks The BB birch kills those blades. 10 to 15 minutes and they are dull and or will pop. The Pegas MGT 2/0 cuts much faster and lasts longer for me. Kevin for drill hole sizes. I just look at the blade width and look at a number drill chart #72 (0.025) is good for my small Pegas 2/0. Or a #68 (.031) if I want a bit more room I have a huge machinist drill chart on my wall.

What about the little pieces that get stuck between the table and the collector? I do love the new technology available to us. The 3d printers are great. The next thing I would do is make a reducer from the 2" hose to one that adapts to my Festool collection. Or re-design the piece you just installed to incorporate a smaller connection. OMG am I talking myself into a 3d printer

I never put clear tape directly to the wood. It is a pain to get off and very easy to miss a sliver during removal that will show up when you are putting on a finish. Painters tape for very small projects or removable Contact brand shelf liner (clear) for the rest of the projects. except on Intarsia there the pattern goes directly on the wood since it gets sanded off during shaping anyway .

Kevin, I have only occasionally been engraving wood, if I were to work with plastic or anything else, I would absolutely build an enclosure and vent it to the outside.

I recently saw a aerial image of a port with this huge fleet of ships anchored off shore. What a mess. I need instant gratification when buying a new tool or car. This would kill me. I think all vendors should be upfront about delivery problems.

I have gotten used to the black lines, but for me lots of light is the key.

As some of you may know I offer a brass hardware kit for one of the clocks I built for the magazine. I have shipped parts to Australia and the UK and a few other countries. Yes there is extra work and cost involved, I warn customers upfront about the additional postage and they already know about customs at their end. If they agree I send the parts. I don't care about the extra time it takes me, I just want people to build the clock. I just did a shipment to Canada and for the first time used "Click and ship" It made it a lot easier.

Dave, looking good! Did you seal the walls at all?

I like the cabinet idea. I use the Baby soda bottles for my blade storage. I want a clear tube so that I can see how many blades I have left. And these tubes are bullet proof.

I bought a Makita LS 1016 ten years ago, It has a unique multi rail slider that takes less space behind the saw. I could never get the fence perfect but it is fine for what I need. It is a 10 inch saw that will cut a 12"width. Lots of new saws out there and since this will be a workhorse in your shop I would not cheap out.

That is beautiful, I really like how you mounted it. Who's design?

A nice solution! Lots of great and clever ideas. Where do you live that working in a garden shed is doable without freezing?

I followed a similar progression. Before I realized I would love this Hobby. A garage sale Dremel (pinned blades only) that I should have hooked up to my bed to vibrate me to sleep. A Craftsman that I inherited from my Father. Too many tools needed to change the blade, but I cut some ginger bread trim for my shed. Delta SS350, Great saw but its front back blade motion was too aggressive, that is what I don't like about the Dewalt. That is when I decided I really like this hobby and bought the Hawk G4 26 (2005) I did add the Pozgai clamp mod when it was available, by adding the Delta quick clamps. . It has paid for most of the tools that I have purchased since then, with my annual ornament sales. I also now have a EX 16 with Pegas clamps. I am not big on progressive steps when it comes to tools. I now wait until I have the funds and fight my spontaneous buy urges. I would buy the Pegas if I were in the market now. Best clamps, and you can easily tune the front back stroke. just my opinion.

So Sorry for your loss! What a magnificent animal. An interesting mix. I glue up boards all the time. If they are thick ,3/4, I will biscuit join them. Most of my panels are 1/4 to 1/2. I joint the edges and check for a nice fit with no gaps. I always leave them a bit thicker and then sand them down. For the glue up I use a few bar clamps and a couple of clamps on the edges to keep the panels from bowing up. I use ordinary Tightbond glue. Since I re-saw my thinner panels I try to book match them. If you want pictures I could do a mock up.

Jerry I have to agree with you. I fix all of my own stuff. It is in my heritage LOL Kevin vicknair How old is the saw? I am also leaning towards a mechanical issue. These saws seem to be notorious for dry bearings. I just fixed a EX21 for a friend and found this. This is the pitman arm that connects the motor to the arms of the saw. As you can see the bearing was actually rusty. Several of the other bearings were also dry. I am no familiar with how the delta is put together, bot my EX has a hole in the end of the motor so that you can put a screwdriver in and turn it. It should turn freely. The hole is on the opposite side of the first picture below,

Rocky time , may I suggest you put a screen on the funnel or a trap in line, for those small pieces you Don't want sucked up.

For me the shop vacs are way too noisy.

Thanks Everyone, I checked it out and he has joined. Some great information there. I suggested he should simply replace the switch. Even if he still wants a lock.

I just received an Email from someone that inherited an Eclipse scroll saw that is missing its Key. I know there was a group/ forum for this saw a while back, does anyone know if it is still active ?

Beautiful, and the perfect wood selection. And Congratulations on the new saw.